The part numbers you need should be here: 100 Series CV Axle Reboot Kits - https://www.cruiserpatch.com/products/100-series-cv-axle-inboard-and-outboard-reboot-kit
What services should I get done to baseline LC?
- Thread starter hayer2021
- Start date
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Jack90210
SILVER Star
Here's a fun list 
- Diff services (fluid change, replace plug gaskets, check breather operation)
- Power Steering (fluid change, reservoir cleaning/replacement, inspect hoses)
- Transmission (fluid change, set the level correctly, replace plug gaskets)
- Engine Oil (5w30 recommended, some run higher viscosity in summer/towing)
- Transfer Case (fluid change, replace plug gaskets, check breather operation)
- Coolant Flush (drain from radiator and both block drains, flush with distilled water if necessary)
- Replace coolant hoses if original; replace thermostat if age unknown
- Radiator check for embrittlement (pull top coolant hose and inspect); brown top tank exterior indicates fatigue
- Radiator check for debris/clogging in fins (remove shroud and backflush with canned foaming coil cleaner)
- Heater Ts and Hoses (recommend replace as a unit to keep pieces of crumbled tees out of the system)
- Spark Plugs (recommended torque 18 ft/lb, check annually for loose plugs and discolored coil boots)
- Brake Fluid (bleed at all four corners until fluid is clear, activate ABS pump if possible, use factory fill procedure)
- Brake Pad and Caliper Pin Inspection
- AC Evap Coil Cleaning (change filters or consider adding filters)
- Air Filter (OEM recommended, take care to position properly to allow gasket to seal)
- Throttle Body Cleaning
- MAP Sensor Cleaning
- Vacuum/Air Hose Inspection/Replacement
- Fuel Filter Replacement
- Rust Inspection (the rear half of the frame in particular) and FluidFilm if necessary
- Inspect area under front condensation drain for rust (passenger-side sway bar mount)
- Valve Cover Bolt Re-Torque (easy to do when replacing spark plugs; spec is 53 INCH-POUNDS)
- Battery, check connections/look for corrosion (fusible links in particular) and test battery
- Check underhood ground connections for corrosion
- Suspension Bushings (upper rear control arms go first, IME)
- PCV Valve and Air Hose Inspect/Replace
- CV/Steering Boot Inspection/Cleaning (if oily)
- Driveshaft Lubrication (2 slip joints, 4 U-joints – fill slip joints until shaft moves, may require lots of grease)
- If AHC, fluid flush and pressure readings (TechStream), adjust torsion bars if needed, perform globe test
- Drive Flange test for wear/movement
- Steering Rack Bushings test for wear/movement
- Front Diff Bushings test for wear/movement
- Front wheel bearing service
- If VVTI, check secondary air injection (“SAI”) filter
- Consider replacing accessory belt, tensioner, idler pulleys
- Remove rear brakelights/turn signals for rust inspection/cleaning
- Check underhood fusebox for sealing gasket condition (if needed, McMaster 1177N15 3/32” 10ft silicone)
Last edited:
According to Mr. T, correct spark plug torque is 13 ft. lbs. (18 Nm).Here's a fun list
- Diff services (fluid change, replace plug gaskets, check breather operation)
- Power Steering (fluid change, reservoir cleaning/replacement, inspect hoses)
- Transmission (fluid change, set the level correctly, replace plug gaskets)
- Engine Oil (5w30 recommended, some run higher viscosity in summer/towing)
- Transfer Case (fluid change, replace plug gaskets, check breather operation)
- Coolant Flush (drain from radiator and both block drains, flush with distilled water if necessary)
- Replace coolant hoses if original; replace thermostat if age unknown
- Radiator check for embrittlement (pull top coolant hose and inspect); brown top tank exterior indicates fatigue
- Radiator check for debris/clogging in fins (remove shroud and backflush with canned foaming coil cleaner)
- Heater Ts and Hoses (recommend replace as a unit to keep pieces of crumbled tees out of the system)
- Spark Plugs (recommended torque 18 ft/lb, check annually for loose plugs and discolored coil boots)
- Brake Fluid (bleed at all four corners until fluid is clear, activate ABS pump if possible, use factory fill procedure)
- Brake Pad and Caliper Pin Inspection
- AC Evap Coil Cleaning (change filters or consider adding filters)
- Air Filter (OEM recommended, take care to position properly to allow gasket to seal)
- Throttle Body Cleaning
- MAP Sensor Cleaning
- Vacuum/Air Hose Inspection/Replacement
- Fuel Filter Replacement
- Rust Inspection (the rear half of the frame in particular) and FluidFilm if necessary
- Inspect area under front condensation drain for rust (passenger-side sway bar mount)
- Valve Cover Bolt Re-Torque (easy to do when replacing spark plugs; spec is 53 INCH-POUNDS)
- Battery, check connections/look for corrosion (fusible links in particular) and test battery
- Check underhood ground connections for corrosion
- Suspension Bushings (upper rear control arms go first, IME)
- PCV Valve and Air Hose Inspect/Replace
- CV/Steering Boot Inspection/Cleaning (if oily)
- Driveshaft Lubrication (2 slip joints, 4 U-joints – fill slip joints until shaft moves, may require lots of grease)
- If AHC, fluid flush and pressure readings (TechStream), adjust torsion bars if needed, perform globe test
- Drive Flange test for wear/movement
- Steering Rack Bushings test for wear/movement
- Front Diff Bushings test for wear/movement
- Front wheel bearing service
- If VVTI, check secondary air injection (“SAI”) filter
- Consider replacing accessory belt, tensioner, idler pulleys
- Remove rear brakelights/turn signals for rust inspection/cleaning
- Check underhood fusebox for sealing gasket condition (if needed, McMaster 1177N15 3/32” 10ft silicone)
Some on IH8MUD forum suggest 15 ft. lbs to prevent spark plugs from backing out.
hoser
SILVER Star
At your vehicle's age (assuming rack is original), it is likely just the rack mount bushings that are worn. Available aftermarket. But check inner tie rod for play also. The balljoints need to be checked for play (search Youtube videos on how to). If no play, you can squirt some grease back in there. Clean off the areas and monitor. Your front shocks are leaking. The OE ones are fairly inexpensive.
Jack90210
SILVER Star
Some recommend 18 ft/lb, too. Link below.
Ticking time bomb TICK TICK TICK: Spark plugs Alert Alert Alert!
TICK TICK TICK POP POP POP is a ticking time bomb, often mistaken as exhaust manifold crack or gasket leak leak. ALERT, ALERT, ALERT: Spark plugs are working themselves loose. "Walking Out" Then blowing out of head, taking their female threads of head with them! Very damaging! You think TICK...
forum.ih8mud.com
2001LC definitely has a lot of experience with these vehicles.Some recommend 18 ft/lb, too. Link below.
Ticking time bomb TICK TICK TICK: Spark plugs Alert Alert Alert!
TICK TICK TICK POP POP POP is a ticking time bomb, often mistaken as exhaust manifold crack or gasket leak leak. ALERT, ALERT, ALERT: Spark plugs are working themselves loose. "Walking Out" Then blowing out of head, taking their female threads of head with them! Very damaging! You think TICK...
Anytime he posts and ALERT ALERT ALERT… one should consider the content to be based upon considerable evidence.
If your ball joint boots are cracked and leaking, but the joint still has no vertical movement, you can get new rubber boots and grease from Toyota for about $10 per. Normally ball joints can last a very, very long time if they don’t get contaminated with water and dirt. I changed the boots on my 07 as soon as I noticed the originals were cracked.
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