What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (34 Viewers)

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Currently attacking the front inner wheel arch.
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Anyone know the effect of taking off this corner with a grinder disc? Thinking it would seperate the metal. Bad? OK? Not sure about it.
 
Hey guys, my name's Thomas new to the forum but have owned my 99' lx470 for the last 4 years. Have done a little work over the years not much upgrades more upkeep; added some Yoko Geolander A/T's, took my running boards off (looks great btw), topped off the transmission fluid, used some seafoam high-milage with my last fill up, and a power steering flush and top off.
 
-Pioneer 4500 NEX installed
-Blue sea dual usb installed on the right cig
-Accele usb + hdmi extension from HU to center console plug for CarPlay

-OEM exhaust from cats back. $$$$
I looked at Borla, Doug Thorley, talked to Slee. Decided that OEM was the best choice. After running for a few minutes you can hardly tell it’s on.

Shocks and TB’s are next

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There’s a thread regarding gas expansion and fire risk on the main 100series forum on the top. That’s what I followed.
I used a aluminum sheet just slightly longer than the OE heat shield (14” I think and extends down 4”) and self tapping screws. For the part heading up to the engine bay I used head shield tubing from amazon between 2 body clips that secured them maybe around a foot or less each.


From what point to what point did you shield the Fuel Lines. I want to do this but not sure which are the fuel lines and how far the fuel line shield should extend.
 
A week ago I installed the Timbren rear bump stops, which are more than just bump stops in that they can limit sag when heavily weighed down. Acquired a travel trail with a pretty high tongue weight, hoping the Timbrens help but ready to add air bags if they are not enough.

ALso getting a new steering rack and some routine services at the local shop.
 

wipes fine, no issues. Or you can buy the OEM one for much more
Was inspired by your post and bought one off ebay and finally got around to installing it. Seems to be good enough quality.

full
 
Thanks for the tip! It leaves a little overhang on the top with my Hopkins Multi Tow 7+4 connector, but it will work great for me. It was super easy to install by clipping out the cutout so the wiring could be run without disconnecting anything. I'm sure I can still find a way to rip off my connector, but it seems like this will decrease the frequency.
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Discovered the source of the “growl” during faster left turns(?) I think. It started on our long trip last summer, and I chalked it up to the CV boot that split on the second day. It turned out that another boot was dry from the date of purchase, but when replacing them earlier, and getting a rotation and alignment checkup yesterday, it was still there. No noise when going straight or right. To their credit the tire shop charged nothing for their extra time trying to help me figure it out- they thought it might be way out of alignment too, after all my front end work, but it was still nearly perfect, and the KO2s had no signs of abnormal wear. There Final guess: wheel bearings. So I pulled everything apart today and found this: (besides 1 random lock washer tab sitting in the grease, and no drive flange gasket) IMO, spindle looks great, inner and outer races look good, inner bearing set looks good, but outer is pitted In places, and every bearing has tiny dents. Would just that cause the “growling” enough for the vibration to be felt through the floorboard? In order: spindle; inner race; outer race; inner bearings; outer bearings.

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Installed a fumuto drain valve and replaced with Mobil 1 0w-30 and OEM filter. I need to add a hole in my mid TJM skids to access the drain valve.

Also installed my front ASFIR skid, need to get a 90 to 120 mm tall puck for the center of the skid. As I have @Trail Tailors diff drop and the ASFIR skid doesn’t have the hump like the OEM one does. Also need to add a middle hole to the rear of the skid plate to line up with the diff drop. On the plus side, plenty of room to access the oil filter, I folded a piece of cardboard to help it drain.
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Discovered the source of the “growl” during faster left turns(?) I think. It started on our long trip last summer, and I chalked it up to the CV boot that split on the second day. It turned out that another boot was dry from the date of purchase, but when replacing them earlier, and getting a rotation and alignment checkup yesterday, it was still there. No noise when going straight or right. To their credit the tire shop charged nothing for their extra time trying to help me figure it out- they thought it might be way out of alignment too, after all my front end work, but it was still nearly perfect, and the KO2s had no signs of abnormal wear. There Final guess: wheel bearings. So I pulled everything apart today and found this: (besides 1 random lock washer tab sitting in the grease, and no drive flange gasket) IMO, spindle looks great, inner and outer races look good, inner bearing set looks good, but outer is pitted In places, and every bearing has tiny dents. Would just that cause the “growling” enough for the vibration to be felt through the floorboard? In order: spindle; inner race; outer race; inner bearings; outer bearings.

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Yeah, that bearing is chowdered.
 
Not something I did to my hundred, but something I did for her—replaced my 25 year old, overfilled, and busted-zippered tool bag with a new one that allows me to organize 80% of the big junk that was rattling around in the bottom of my old bag. Now there’s just a BFH, big wrenches, and a tool roll loose in the main bag compartment. Soo much better.

below see everything spread out, then packed....

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Not something I did to my hundred, but something I did for her—replaced my 25 year old, overfilled, and busted-zippered tool bag with a new one that allows me to organize 80% of the big junk that was rattling around in the bottom of my old bag. Now there’s just a BFH, big wrenches, and a tool roll loose in the main bag compartment. Soo much better.

below see everything spread out, then packed....

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I started doing this today too. Pairing down my road kit to the nessesary.... Bought a traveling magnet retriever for the rig, because I learned a hard lesson this summer when my Dog jumped up into the engine bay of my Wife's X5 while I was topping off the oil (those rigs are fussy if you are a 1/4 quart low) and the oil cap dropped down onto the skid plate. Luckily we were in a city park and one of the groundskeepers had one of those pickup thingys that did the job. I doubt the X5 would run without a proper oil cap.
 
I started doing this today too. Pairing down my road kit to the nessesary.... Bought a traveling magnet retriever for the rig, because I learned a hard lesson this summer when my Dog jumped up into the engine bay of my Wife's X5 while I was topping off the oil (those rigs are fussy if you are a 1/4 quart low) and the oil cap dropped down onto the skid plate. Luckily we were in a city park and one of the groundskeepers had one of those pickup thingys that did the job. I doubt the X5 would run without a proper oil cap.
 
Took the rig on a fantastic 200 mile gravel route around the Texas hill country. Everything was great..,.until my alternator crapped out. Barely made it home as the battery fell from 13.4 volts to 10.8 volts. It was holding steady at 13.7-13.8 for the entire trip (as it always does). But, when it started dropping, it went quick and battery warning light kicked on. Had battery tested and it tested like new. Charged right up in an hour. Plugged it back in the rig and watched the voltage on my Scangauge bouncing between 13.7-14.6 before finally starting the slow descent down to 12.8. I shut it down and am now considering my alternator options. The original lasted 22 years and nearly 250k.

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Got the new tires dirty and the monsters out of the house.
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Took the rig on a fantastic 200 mile gravel route around the Texas hill country. Everything was great..,.until my alternator crapped out. Barely made it home as the battery fell from 13.4 volts to 10.8 volts. It was holding steady at 13.7-13.8 for the entire trip (as it always does). But, when it started dropping, it went quick and battery warning light kicked on. Had battery tested and it tested like new. Charged right up in an hour. Plugged it back in the rig and watched the voltage on my Scangauge bouncing between 13.7-14.6 before finally starting the slow descent down to 12.8. I shut it down and am now considering my alternator options. The original lasted 22 years and nearly 250k.

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OEM reman 100%, then reman yours as a backup.

Lots of alternators starting to give out on these 20+ 100s it should be on the baseline list to not end up in middle of nowhere with no power.
 
Took the rig on a fantastic 200 mile gravel route around the Texas hill country. Everything was great..,.until my alternator crapped out. Barely made it home as the battery fell from 13.4 volts to 10.8 volts. It was holding steady at 13.7-13.8 for the entire trip (as it always does). But, when it started dropping, it went quick and battery warning light kicked on. Had battery tested and it tested like new. Charged right up in an hour. Plugged it back in the rig and watched the voltage on my Scangauge bouncing between 13.7-14.6 before finally starting the slow descent down to 12.8. I shut it down and am now considering my alternator options. The original lasted 22 years and nearly 250k.

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it's probably just brushes. i replaced mine when i did my last timing belt job. around 275k. they were close to done. if people would just replace brushes at every other timing belt they would likely never have an alternator failure. well maybe bearings. but mine had close to 300k now and it's still going. its so easy to change the brushes when doing the timing belt. its like one more bolt and the wiring connector.
 

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