Finally getting around to mounting a YAESU FTM-100DR HAM radio in my rig. Decided to mount the controller and mic on a heavy duty flex arm seat bolt mount by Lido mounts.
What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (64 Viewers)
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That's *all* I ever use. The underlying G-man stuff is not that good—I can't ever seem to get it to work right, text entry is weird, etc. But the iphone always works.
But it's one of the top 5 or maybe even top 3 mods on mine, and probably the only mod that gets everyday use.
I was going to say running boards gotta g—I was just given a 1999 LC with a few issues, plenty of dirty carpets, and past due maintenance, but, she is RUST FREE and now passes smog and runs,I have new tires and many maintenance items shipped from the Toyota factory and I'm waiting to install them! Besides baselining the LC mechanically what would you guys do to your rig first that is a nuisance fixer as I am new to this generation of LC?
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Installed the bull bar, really easy to install but it takes time to adjust. Now I can look at my LX w/o wishing it had the LC front 
Finished the alternator and tensioner pulley job, then got some LC 18 in rims with 275/70/18 BFGs. Love the look
Picked up these door seals at the local Toyota dealership.
Part number and prices:
FRONT RIGHT: 67861-60101 ($57)
FRONT LEFT: 67862-60101 ($57)
REAR RIGHT: 67871-60080 ($65)
REAR LEFT: 67872-60080 ($65)
Also, picked a LC version of rear sway bar (mine still have the thinner LX version). Part # 48805-60060 for $135. But now I am having second thoughts about whether a slightly thicker sway bar going to be even noticeable? Should I just return it and save $135 for something else?
Part number and prices:
FRONT RIGHT: 67861-60101 ($57)
FRONT LEFT: 67862-60101 ($57)
REAR RIGHT: 67871-60080 ($65)
REAR LEFT: 67872-60080 ($65)
Also, picked a LC version of rear sway bar (mine still have the thinner LX version). Part # 48805-60060 for $135. But now I am having second thoughts about whether a slightly thicker sway bar going to be even noticeable? Should I just return it and save $135 for something else?
I need to do the driver's door seal, thanks for posting.
I've been wondering the same thing about the sway bars. Idk about you but mine doesn't really lean much anymore. Sure there's some, but with all of the control arms replaced with Jason's and the (mostly the same) TD system you've got, it's pretty tight.
Having said that, $135 for a sway bar is a hell of a lot cheaper than everything else
I got these prices by asking the local dealership to match prices with what I see at McGeorge toyota online parts store. These are about 33% off the MSRP.I need to do the driver's door seal, thanks for posting.
I've been wondering the same thing about the sway bars. Idk about you but mine doesn't really lean much anymore. Sure there's some, but with all of the control arms replaced with Jason's and the (mostly the same) TD system you've got, it's pretty tight.
Having said that, $135 for a sway bar is a hell of a lot cheaper than everything else
Once I replace the front uppers, the front lowers are the only ones, I would have original from 98. Those are kinda pricey at $290 a side.
Wish I got the Dissent roof rack. The Soflo one we got was nothing but trouble.
That sucks. What's the problem?
Ugh
Went to get aligment after SPC+ OME lift and new inner and out tie rods.
Gave the shop SPC instructions.
Took them 2 hours and they charged me 1 hour labor plus aligment fee due to complex instructions.
Left fat dumb and happy and but brought it back 1 minute later. The steering wheel was not centered.
Owner of place apologized and said to bring it back tomorrow (I had to be somewhere soon after)
Found out when I got home they didn't move the plate correctly. Instead of moving just the plate on the UCA they rotated the entire assembly.
I'll just reinstall the UCA properly at home and have them attempt one more aligment.
Oh and they dont print out aligment sheets.
Not happy.
Went to get aligment after SPC+ OME lift and new inner and out tie rods.
Gave the shop SPC instructions.
Took them 2 hours and they charged me 1 hour labor plus aligment fee due to complex instructions.
Left fat dumb and happy and but brought it back 1 minute later. The steering wheel was not centered.
Owner of place apologized and said to bring it back tomorrow (I had to be somewhere soon after)
Found out when I got home they didn't move the plate correctly. Instead of moving just the plate on the UCA they rotated the entire assembly.
I'll just reinstall the UCA properly at home and have them attempt one more aligment.
Oh and they dont print out aligment sheets.
Not happy.
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Since it is a balmy 10 degrees American today, I decide to pull the headlights in preparation for mini H1 projector upgrade. Stay tuned! Left lamp is still foggy because there is a 60 deg temp difference between outside and inside
Installing these
New Fifteen52 wheels with 285/70/17 Falken Wildpeak AT's. Just a little rubbing but nothing a little cutting couldn't fix.
Front diff and transfer case flush. Rear diff fill pug was stripped so waiting on a new one to flush the rear.
Front diff and transfer case flush. Rear diff fill pug was stripped so waiting on a new one to flush the rear.
Very curious as to how they behave in snow and ice. I had a brand new set last year that was at best unimpressive in icy conditions.
@ClassyJalopy So far they seem great in the snow. The roads around here stay pretty snow packed all winter and we dont get a ton of ice on the roads. Definitely better than the bridgestone duelers that were on it.
Eyedaho
SILVER Star
Lucky you were smart enough to remove the fill plug first!
I always like to check the level 1st just for piece of mind
Very nice
The bronze wheel color complimented the truck’s color very well. What’s the specs of those wheels?
Is your truck Galactic Gray? The bronze face, and wheel in general, look really good on it!
What did you have to cut? Pinch-weld plastic?
