Yes. I have to cut off the tabs.
What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (35 Viewers)
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Don't you worry! I am already on top of all of this! I am about to do the timing/water pump and all pulleys and hoses that are exposed through that, front rotors, pads, bearings, and cv, the boots just recently cracked, and flushing and baselining all fluids! I had to replace plugs and coils to get smogged previously. The BFG K02's were also just installed today
I also must mention she was given to me with 287k miles but she runs like a champ... Now at least
I like your painted ARB, did you do it yourself? If so what color white did you use? This week just swapped the alternator and tensioner out. Great write up here on the forum. Surprised how much a difference the belt tensioner made on power steering function.
ccasteel
SILVER Star
Don't you worry! I am already on top of all of this! I am about to do the timing/water pump and all pulleys and hoses that are exposed through that, front rotors, pads, bearings, and cv, the boots just recently cracked, and flushing and baselining all fluids! I had to replace plugs and coils to get smogged previously. The BFG K02's were also just installed today
I also must mention she was given to me with 287k miles but she runs like a champ... Now at least
If you haven't checked them already, you're going to want to check and replace your heater T's. Mine blew in a Chik-fil-A drive thru.
I have the same year LC, and you may also, at some point, want to replace the ignition key shaft for the beefier updated replacement - the originals are made of a poor metal and have a history of unexpectedly snapping leaving you stranded. I think the part cost me $130 or so, I replaced as a preventative measure.
One of many threads:
Ignition switch broken...help?!
When I put the key in, it turns freely through the normal range without doing anything. The door chime sounds with the door open, but no mechanical resistance and nothing turns on. The steering wheel lowers with the key in like normal. The steering wheel isn't locked from turning with the key...
forum.ih8mud.com
I have the same year LC, and you may also, at some point, want to replace the ignition key shaft for the beefier updated replacement - the originals are made of a poor metal and have a history of unexpectedly snapping leaving you stranded. I think the part cost me $130 or so, I replaced as a preventative measure.
One of many threads:
Ignition switch broken...help?!
When I put the key in, it turns freely through the normal range without doing anything. The door chime sounds with the door open, but no mechanical resistance and nothing turns on. The steering wheel lowers with the key in like normal. The steering wheel isn't locked from turning with the key...
Thank you! I certainly will check this out!
Eyedaho
SILVER Star
Do you have a date range for the weakness?
I was also thinking about that exhaust headers wrap myself? Still might if noise comes back
Yeah those $20 were down the gutter within a couple of days. The rattle is back.
I will look into header wrap but perhaps i can just push in a lot of high temp silicon to see of that helps. Anyone see a problem with that idea?
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Assume this was an OEM Tokico, do you think it failed due to overextension?
Yes this was a brand new Toyota OEM. I know exactly when it failed. I was trying to power up a very steep (50% +) muddy slope when my left front found a hole large enough to stop the progress with a strong jolt.
The whole truck kind of lifted (wheels still on the ground) and landed on ths right rear wheel.
Ride after the ride I could tell there was a strange pogo stick effect kind of diagonally from left front to right rear. Still drove the truck another 500 miles before replacing the shocks
VinylSeats
SILVER Star
Installed new spark plugs and ignition coil boots. The old plugs were Denso Iridium Long Life and were at roughly 80,000 miles. Coil boot ages unknown.
I went with the Denso Iridium TT after reading some recommendations.
New spark plugs and coils on left, old ones on right.
Old ignition coil boot on left, new one on right.
All old spark plugs and ignition coil boots.
I went with the Denso Iridium TT after reading some recommendations.
New spark plugs and coils on left, old ones on right.
Old ignition coil boot on left, new one on right.
All old spark plugs and ignition coil boots.
Did 2001LC help you with this? Those new twin tip Densos are something that he has been testing.
VinylSeats
SILVER Star
No but I did read some of @2001LC's posts in the big spark plug thread that helped me decide to go with the Iridium TT. I would have gone Iridium Long Life otherwise.
With the help of some friends, I moved my Alu-cab rtt from my Black 04 to my new Silver 04 with Dissent roof rack. Great fit and solid as a rock. Also swapped various other parts so u can get ready to sell the black truck.
Routine stuff with small twist
Trying these products from BG:
While looking at induction cleanings and all that stuff I read about of a lot of people using BG44K instead of Seafoam. On top of that I've been reading lots of threads on bobistheoilguy about their EPR and figured I'd give it a shot. So first, I drove around the block for a bit and pumped out some the old oil (4,800 miles on it @ the time) just before Thanksgiving and sent it off to Blackstone Labs to be tested, kinda just curious what is says about a 1/2 million mile engine. Then this weekend I did the Engine Performance Restoration from BG, got the car warm, then added a can of EPR (gonna do two next time) to the old oil, revved to 1200-1300 rpms for 15 minutes. Then did:
Oil Change (Mobil-1 5W-30 Full Synthetic High Mileage + BG MOA)
BG44K in half a gas tank
Drain & Fill 4qts Toyota ATF WS
Am going to do another sample test to Blackstone at the end of this oil change interval (gonna do a shorter 5K) and just record gas mileage. I figure that's really the only to tell any significant effects. Worst scenario I think I blew like $60 for nothing. It certainly feels good and idles good, better than when I got the truck, but I've also done a lot and replaced a lot since then. Typically I average 13mpg so I'll see if that goes up.
As soon as I was done I took the wife and kids for a cruise through about 50 miles of Forest Service Roads through the Blue Ridge mountains near us. Gorgeous, though the very beginning was loaded with bear hunters coming back down the mountains never saw a soul again for the last 30 miles. Truck did fantastic as always, and alas no pictures.
Trying these products from BG:
While looking at induction cleanings and all that stuff I read about of a lot of people using BG44K instead of Seafoam. On top of that I've been reading lots of threads on bobistheoilguy about their EPR and figured I'd give it a shot. So first, I drove around the block for a bit and pumped out some the old oil (4,800 miles on it @ the time) just before Thanksgiving and sent it off to Blackstone Labs to be tested, kinda just curious what is says about a 1/2 million mile engine. Then this weekend I did the Engine Performance Restoration from BG, got the car warm, then added a can of EPR (gonna do two next time) to the old oil, revved to 1200-1300 rpms for 15 minutes. Then did:
Oil Change (Mobil-1 5W-30 Full Synthetic High Mileage + BG MOA)
BG44K in half a gas tank
Drain & Fill 4qts Toyota ATF WS
Am going to do another sample test to Blackstone at the end of this oil change interval (gonna do a shorter 5K) and just record gas mileage. I figure that's really the only to tell any significant effects. Worst scenario I think I blew like $60 for nothing. It certainly feels good and idles good, better than when I got the truck, but I've also done a lot and replaced a lot since then. Typically I average 13mpg so I'll see if that goes up.
As soon as I was done I took the wife and kids for a cruise through about 50 miles of Forest Service Roads through the Blue Ridge mountains near us. Gorgeous, though the very beginning was loaded with bear hunters coming back down the mountains never saw a soul again for the last 30 miles. Truck did fantastic as always, and alas no pictures.
Either get a new relay from SuperBright LEDS as mentioned previously. Or, do what I did, tap into the orange markers on the sides of the headlights. Mine now don't serve as markers, but as blinkers as well.
Modernized the outdated Nav system by installing Grom Vline VL2 this weekend. Seems to be working pretty decent but all I’ve really used so far is the wired CarPlay app
