Anyone know how silicone radiator and heater hoses compare to OEM?
Thanks,
Dave
Thanks,
Dave
What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (24 Viewers)
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Yes, they send 3 clamps of one size and one clamp that fits on the lower hose.
Got my tough dog kit from @TRAIL TAILOR Friday and starting on it the moment i got home from work today.
Just finished up the rear. A timing belt job is easier than those freakin top bolts. I can't believe i forgot to order a swivel ratcheting wrench! Don't even try! And i won't cut into the floor.
Thanks to my wife's help, i got them in! But I'm not sure when to stop tightening.
53mm ralphs
45mm adjustables
Light duty 2" TD gold springs
HD torsion bars
Tomorrow i start on the front!
Just finished up the rear. A timing belt job is easier than those freakin top bolts. I can't believe i forgot to order a swivel ratcheting wrench! Don't even try! And i won't cut into the floor.
Thanks to my wife's help, i got them in! But I'm not sure when to stop tightening.
53mm ralphs
45mm adjustables
Light duty 2" TD gold springs
HD torsion bars
Tomorrow i start on the front!
Replaced my steering rack bushings yesterday with whiteline polys. There were a few threads that were very helpful:
Replace steering rack bushings question
Old ones were pretty trashed and I hand a bad creak/cracking sounds when turning wheel at stop or slow speeds. There was also quite a bit of play in the steering. It is night and day now! Much more responsive (not harsh). Also got to use my new air compressor.
Old trashed bushings (note I cut D bushing to help get it out):
New ones:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BED6AB0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Air compressor
Replace steering rack bushings question
Old ones were pretty trashed and I hand a bad creak/cracking sounds when turning wheel at stop or slow speeds. There was also quite a bit of play in the steering. It is night and day now! Much more responsive (not harsh). Also got to use my new air compressor.
Old trashed bushings (note I cut D bushing to help get it out):
New ones:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BED6AB0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Air compressor
YMMV on silicone hoses in general. IMHO, I don't consider them to be an upgrade or provide any advantage over OEM. The OEM hoses last a long time. I just replace them at ~150k(depends on the environment and time also) as PM when doing a system flush. Easy. Silicone hoses are known to weep as they don't seal very well. CT style clamps help a lot with the weep issue -typical worm style clamps are not recommended. Silicone hoses offer a bit more protection in really high heat/stress high performance engine applications as the extreme heat causes the rubber hoses to wear out sooner. Even then, I chose not to use them in my built UrS4 as the OEM rubber used in those cars lasts a long time just like in our trucks. These engines in our trucks never see that kind of situation, even in really hot places like Phoenix, etc. A well maintained OEM cooling system will handle what we can throw at it.
The colorful hoses do make a clean underhood look pretty cool though!
I was kind of thinking the same thing. I also have not seen them in any supercars, where expense is not much of an issue on hoses.YMMV on silicone hoses in general. IMHO, I don't consider them to be an upgrade or provide any advantage over OEM. The OEM hoses last a long time. I just replace them at ~150k(depends on the environment and time also) as PM when doing a system flush. Easy. Silicone hoses are known to weep as they don't seal very well. CT style clamps help a lot with the weep issue -typical worm style clamps are not recommended. Silicone hoses offer a bit more protection in really high heat/stress high performance engine applications as the extreme heat causes the rubber hoses to wear out sooner. Even then, I chose not to use them in my built UrS4 as the OEM rubber used in those cars lasts a long time just like in our trucks. These engines in our trucks never see that kind of situation, even in really hot places like Phoenix, etc. A well maintained OEM cooling system will handle what we can throw at it.
The colorful hoses do make a clean underhood look pretty cool though!
Thanks,
Dave
That's awesome, i have some wildpeak at3w coming in same size and wasn't sure if i could fit them in. This picture puts me at ease!
sleepycruiser
I will get by….I will survive -Touch of Grey LC200
They look great. I will say that they *do* rub when turning the steering wheel all the way, but driving normally I haven’t noticed anything and they drive great.
Should I keep turning my t-bars yo eliminate the rub?
That's great, looks awesome. I went with 285/75/16 from advice from the FAQ thread that there is 0 rubbing and is the best size to get for this 100 series. We shall see how it goes, hope no rubbing or minimal like you mentioned.
I changed the heater T's and associated hoses along with the pre cat bank 1 O2 sensor. I pulled the T's and their hoses as assemblies. One T was in decent shape. However, the other was so brittle that broke as I worked the hoses loose from their connections. My LC is an 01 with 199,4xx and I suspect the hoses and T's were original.
Looks like you have a bit more rake than you need, I'd crank 'em up until the hub to fender measurement is ~ 1" less than the rear.
DYI reserve fuel tank project got into the fabrication phase. I made two bolt on cross bars of 1x1 to hang the tank straps from and a future Alu skid plate.
It’s a 15gal CJ tank (he he) and it has a in tank fuel pump.
Test fit looked pretty good and it’s easily 8” higher than the axle.
It’s a 15gal CJ tank (he he) and it has a in tank fuel pump.
Test fit looked pretty good and it’s easily 8” higher than the axle.
And I went for 3 switch’s in the center console. I’ll weld up some jumper to go around the switch’s. I’m not too worried since the plastic is pretty thick and the switch box adds structure. Cut it tight and trim it out there not a lot of extra space.
Hands down the yuckiest place on my cruiser is under the center console cup holder. I blame the tippy short cup holders. I have a plan for that, after putting dynamat in here for the heat and maybe a tiny bit of noise reduction.
My suggestion for dailing up the fun, do this in the dark like I did. Moving the seat a few times is your friend and don’t forget the screws in the bottom of the storage box.
This is why my 2nd row cup holder dosent pop out, one side of the spring has a broken mount. I think I’ll try jb weld and some extra plastic.
My suggestion for dailing up the fun, do this in the dark like I did. Moving the seat a few times is your friend and don’t forget the screws in the bottom of the storage box.
This is why my 2nd row cup holder dosent pop out, one side of the spring has a broken mount. I think I’ll try jb weld and some extra plastic.
sleepycruiser
I will get by….I will survive -Touch of Grey LC200
Pretty sure I have an extra spring mount if needed.
Picked up our new trailer!
Looks great, congrats!
The plastic bit that it screws into? How? I mean thanks for offering it up. Let me try, on the cheap, approach with jb weld which has worked pretty well. If not I may PM you for a follow up.
Paintless Dent Repair for $175, fixing the previous owners issues.
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New Shoes: 285 75 16 Wildpeak at3w
* need to fix that nasty rear bumper, but have a lead on a replacement bumper for $200 as I'm not ready for those 1k+ steel bumpers.
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* need to fix that nasty rear bumper, but have a lead on a replacement bumper for $200 as I'm not ready for those 1k+ steel bumpers.
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