What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (61 Viewers)

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Just changed the oil, lubed the drive shaft, did a drain & refill on the front and rear differentials. Strangely the oil in the front differential was pretty dark and stinky, while the oil on the rear looked nearly new. Even though both were changed out about 32k miles ago. I was reminded that my drive shaft needed lube because I was getting a little bit of a clunk at take off. Clunk is gone now.
 
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I have some in my parts box. not sure if I want to tackle them yet. How long did it take you? How did you extract the old ones?
I have some in my parts box. not sure if I want to tackle them yet. How long did it take you? How did you extract the old ones?

X2 on this. I have a set of Whiteline bushings that have been sitting in my garage yet to be installed because I've heard how difficult the old ones can be to remove. Got any good tips @nmatcek?

Took quite a while. I have a small kiddo at home with me so I started during his nap and didn't finish until after mamma and the boys were in bed, so it was very much interrupted but I'd say about 4 hours if it were continuous. I have a 2004 so it only has the two bolt bushings and not the clamp bushing. Drop your front skidplate, remove wheels, and disconnect your tie rod ends from the steering knuckles so that you have slack to move the rack up/down/left/right. Unbolt the rack from the cross member. (2 bolts with nuts on top. 19mm all the way around.) The stock bushings are a metal outer sleeve, an inner sleeve that the bolt goes through, and rubber between them. There is a top and bottom on each side. I went ahead and pryed/tore out the center sleeve and whatever rubber came with it using a flathead screwdriver. This gave less resistance when I was chiseling/prying at the remaining outer sleeve. The stock bushings have a little metal lip that lies on the outer part of the holes on the rack. I used a long, thin flathead like a chisel and basically bent the lip up almost the whole way around. That gave me a spot for a larger, stronger flathead to get a bite on and hammer on. I hammered until the inner sleeve was distorted enough to pry out of the rack. You can get a good angle on the passenger side upper bushing through the hole in the frame where your tierod passes through. I also had a "pickle fork" tie rod separator tool that worked pretty well to hammer on once I had the lip bent up. It grabbed/bent two sides at once and got a good bite. The real bear is the driver's side upper because you can't get all the way around it because of the oil filter and the adjuster nut on the rack.
It would probably be beneficial to do this job at the same time as an oil change so that the filter is out of the way. I ended up getting the driver's side bottom one out first and then rotated the rack slightly so that I could get a screwdriver up through the bottom and chisel on the top bushing from there. Same process- get a long sharp flathead and try to get the edges bent away from the wall of the rack. Then get a larger chisel or flathead and go to town hammering that little flap.
 
Here is the result of some of the "fun" I had. The one I'm holding is the driver's side upper. You can see how I attacked it from the bottom.

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Took her in for new shoes and an alignment. Had to leave her to have her rack replaced. Ugh!
Yea, going for an alignment at a reputable shop usually ends with them pointing out all the loose stuff. I had to do my ball joints after my first visit and will probably replace my rack before going back again. Still not aligned...
 
Yea, going for an alignment at a reputable shop usually ends with them pointing out all the loose stuff. I had to do my ball joints after my first visit and will probably replace my rack before going back again. Still not aligned...
Well when she comes home she’ll be good for many miles.
 
@Kofoed how much were those OEM axels there?
Mine were $800 delivered, got Toyota dealership in Austin to match internet pricing, this was 2 months ago.
 
Had the front windows tinted with Viper Ceramic 30. A close match in sunlight, more noticeable difference when cloudy. I would like it a little darker so plan to follow up with a darker tint over top. I suspect the difference will not be as noticeable when darker.


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Finally got some decent snow in VA today, strapped her up with a 30,000lb tow strap and is heading out to recover stuck Jeeps.


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Was removing the rear "land cruiser" garnish a pain? I like the clean look.
 
Was removing the rear "land cruiser" garnish a pain? I like the clean look.


Oh i didn't want to, but had to since i wrapped the entire truck. To remove it, you either wait for a really really hot day when the glue is soft and just peel it off slowly. or use a hair dryer and soften up the glue/tape and it should peel off. Use floss to cut into it, afterwards spend like 3 days cleaning off the residue with goo gone.
 
Finally got some decent snow in VA today, strapped her up with a 30,000lb tow strap and is heading out to recover stuck Jeeps.


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Nice CL! A v12 bi-turbo Merc is on my wishlist, hopefully within the next year!
 

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