Oh nice. You detailing the whole interior? Yup pressure washer can def do the job too, sometimes even faster.
What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (30 Viewers)
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Oh nice. You detailing the whole interior? Yup pressure washer can def do the job too, sometimes even faster.
Mine was majorly filthy when I bought it last year. I ripped the entire interior apart to clean it up. More pics in my build thread.
bwell
SILVER Star
My old Ironman rear springs have settled quite a bit over the last 2 or 3 years. Would you mind getting a measurement from the center of your rear hubs straight up to your rear quarter panel lip?
Think I need some new springs.
Thanks
23.75" currently with no spare tire.
I am impressed by that! I have OME 2865 and 70 mm spacers in the back and still have only 22.5" between hub center and fender.
I have no drawers or bumpers or anything heavy in the back. I do have my 33" spare and third row seats.
Is my lift being limited by the OEM shocks?
I want to get inch or inch an half of lift without making it ride any harsher.
My new tires arrived today from Tire Rack. Anyone fitted Bridgestone R63s before? Will I need to hammer the pinch weld?
Possibly so? I've got the tough dog adjustables in the back, which allowed me to play with the setting to keep it comfy. I think if I had a standard shock it would be a little bouncy with no weight in the back. I've removed the spare and the jump seats, so my rear is pretty light. But, putting my sliders back on after the springs did actually help with comfort before playing with the shock adjustments.
Nice job, I did both rear doors and my hatch on Saturday!Replaced the motor in the rear hatch actuator. Works perfect now. took 20 minutes
Restored all glass panels from heavy water spot stains. Ceramic coated all glass panels including windshield and side mirrors.
Very interested in your process. What'd you use? Mine is in dire need.
AHC flush. Easier than I had hoped. Went from dark purplish brown fluid to light pink. Took less than 2.5 qts. Photos are post drain, pre fill, and after refill and in H setting.
This is just the primary cut of V32 compound from chemical guys. I wanted to show how the 99.9% of the stain was removed but I’d have to use a DSLR.
Step 1:
Wash the glass panel/s with water + soap.
Step 2:
V32 compound + heavy cutting foam pad (orange)
Step 3:
V36 compound + heavy polishing foam pad (yellow)
Step 4:
Ceramic coat, this has 5 coats on all panels making it extremely hydrophobic and scratch-proof for the next 6 years.
The whole process took me a total of 12 working hours (full size suv, sedan much faster) start to finish (all glass panels treated, restored and protected).
This is the same 4-step process that I’ve been doing for the past 11 years for all my clients who bring their cars in for glass detailing.
Hope this helps guys.
High speed or rotary? If it's just a compound and not a glass-specific product, that's great!
Stay away from high speed or rotary. I wouldn’t recommend that if this is the first time you’re going to do this, I’ve seen lots of friends mess up there glass panels because they couldn’t tame the polisher. Use your cordless drill. Put on a 3” velcrow pad adapter and you are set. Amazon has those inexpensive ones.
Sorry, I meant high-speed or orbital*
I'm well versed in a rotary, but would be more concerned about melting the plastic trims around the glass.
I'm well versed in a rotary, but would be more concerned about melting the plastic trims around the glass.
Yup that’s one of the risk of using either of the two. With the middle part of a glass panel this should be an easy task. But its the edges and corners that presents a new challenge. With low speed, low torque, you get to take your take your time, and your angles right, the pressure applied on the surface and easily avoid rubber or plastic trims. The lighter tool is easier to manipulate since glass detailing is a bit more labor intensive than paint panels,
Rear Pads yesterday. Took a lot longer on the first set, most of that time fighting with pushing the caliber piston back in. Tried everything including using a sledge.
Then found a Youtube video suggesting you mount caliber back on rotor, with one old pad. Tighten two bolts back down. Then, use crow or similar to push piston back. Worked easily. The second side took probably 20 minutes, easy once you have a rthym and a good plan. Bosch this time- always used Toyota on my LS, willing to try something different.
From the pictures, easy to see it was well past time for a pad swap:
Then found a Youtube video suggesting you mount caliber back on rotor, with one old pad. Tighten two bolts back down. Then, use crow or similar to push piston back. Worked easily. The second side took probably 20 minutes, easy once you have a rthym and a good plan. Bosch this time- always used Toyota on my LS, willing to try something different.
From the pictures, easy to see it was well past time for a pad swap:
Carpeted my drawer/sleeping platform build
