What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (71 Viewers)

[ClassyJalopy]

Wast just browsing Craigslist thinking about roof rack options and found this surco safari roof rack and high lift jack . Picked both up for 40 bucks. I'll have to figure out the best way to mount the rack to the oem rails but it should fit my needs for summer camping. The jack is a bonus. It needs some attention but it looks ok. Will be a nice tool to have along. Just need to lube it up and check that all the parts are good to go. For 40 bucks I don't feel like I can go wrong.

View attachment 1875263

Excellent score! Somebody here used extruded aluminum bars as cross bars on the stock roof rails. They used some t-bolts along with minimal rubber cushioning to attach the aluminum bars to the rails. the rack went on top of that. Just one idea to attach a rack to the factory rails.

 

[Matthew810]

Excellent score! Somebody here used extruded aluminum bars as cross bars on the stock roof rails. They used some t-bolts along with minimal rubber cushioning to attach the aluminum bars to the rails. the rack went on top of that. Just one idea to attach a rack to the factory rails.

Thanks for the idea. Going to look into that.

 

[Cargo1234]

Wast just browsing Craigslist thinking about roof rack options and found this surco safari roof rack and high lift jack . Picked both up for 40 bucks. I'll have to figure out the best way to mount the rack to the oem rails but it should fit my needs for summer camping. The jack is a bonus. It needs some attention but it looks ok. Will be a nice tool to have along. Just need to lube it up and check that all the parts are good to go. For 40 bucks I don't feel like I can go wrong.

View attachment 1875263

Gamaviti Mounts and Aluminum 80/20 struts is what I used for my Yakima basket. I like it because it kept it with a lower profile. I originally just laid the basket on the stock roof rack/rails and it sat super high ... Great find though!

 

[smartparts]

Installed the ironman 4x4 bumper, next removing the saran wrap from my lights.

 

[ClayPigeon]

Began the process of plumbing the truck for aux power with an X2Power Group 27F antigravity battery.

 

[Trunk Monkey]

New fan bracket, fan clutch, and belt thanks to the fan bearing seizing up. Props to @cruiseroutfit for parts and State Auto in Sandy (Cruiserheads) for the install.

 

[ikarus]

New fan bracket, fan clutch, and belt thanks to the fan bearing seizing up. Props to @cruiseroutfit for parts and State Auto in Sandy (Cruiserheads) for the install.

I stopped by to talk to Dustin today. Was yours the black 100 with VX badges?

 

[savirc]

Uh oh ...

 

[Trunk Monkey]

Yep, that's it. Fan started making some noise when we went up to Bear Lake last week and it was -9*. I thought maybe the fan clutch was just not liking the cold, but the "roar" stayed into this week and the pulley finally seized up.

 

[geanes]

Installed the ironman 4x4 bumper, next removing the saran wrap from my lights.

I have the exact same setup. Bit of advice if you plan on running a winch:

The LED lights on top of the bumper will get in the way of the openings on top of the bumper to access the winch clutch. The fix is to get 2 3" long PVC sections, paint black and then get long stainless bolt and nut (total cost is around $5). That will lift the lights up off the bumper and make it MUCH easier to reach down thru the top to access the winch clutch.

 

[geanes]

BIG week the old '98 LX! Got the TKT021 kit and completed the TB/WP job. The belt had signs of wear, but the WP was, surprisingly, practically new (zero indication of any leaks). The TB/WP was last done back in '08 as far as records indicate. While in there, also replaced the fan bracket.

I had been getting an annoying clunk for some time under acceleration and deceleration. While under the rig one day, I took a look at the diff support bracket (lollipop). The horizontal through bolt was up against the top of the loop (compressed the bushing). I could push the diff up by hand! So, I replaced the entire assembly ($180 from Toyota). The clunk is completely gone and even the slight vibration I was getting between 45-65mph (which I had thought was possibly a CV issue) disappeared as well.

Also did the fluid replacement for both my breaks and power steering.

Finally, added the Fumoto valve (excited about doing my next oil change), refilled 7.2 qts of Mobil1 5w-30 synthetic, a new OEM Toyota filter and wrapped everything up by greasing the U-Joints and my Nitro UCAs.

For reference, my diff situation was just like this....

 

[trdcorolla]

I have the exact same setup. Bit of advice if you plan on running a winch:

The LED lights on top of the bumper will get in the way of the openings on top of the bumper to access the winch clutch. The fix is to get 2 3" long PVC sections, paint black and then get long stainless bolt and nut (total cost is around $5). That will lift the lights up off the bumper and make it MUCH easier to reach down thru the top to access the winch clutch.

View attachment 1876238

Are you using two 1" cam buckle straps to strap the traction aids to the Gamiviti? How are you securing them? I just ordered some 1" straps and was researching how to secure them to the rack. I was thinking TSA luggage cable lock, Gun cable lock or a normal bike cable lock.

 

[geanes]

Are you using two 1" cam buckle straps to strap the traction aids to the Gamiviti? How are you securing them? I just ordered some 1" straps and was researching how to secure them to the rack. I was thinking TSA luggage cable lock, Gun cable lock or a normal bike cable lock.

Just two Husky Lashing Straps from Home Depot. They are 8' long. I cut the strap to about 4' and burned the end of the strap with a butane torch so they don't unravel. Each strap wraps over the top, thru the handholds, underneath the rails and back up. To lock them to the rack, I just use a cheap cable lock.

Husky 1 in. x 8 ft. Lashing Strap (2-Pack)-FH0911 - The Home Depot

Master Lock 4 ft. Preset Combination Self Coiling Cable Lock-8143DHCHD - The Home Depot

 

[LETSROLLEM]

BIG week the old '98 LX! Got the TKT021 kit and completed the TB/WP job. The belt had signs of wear, but the WP was, surprisingly, practically new (zero indication of any leaks). The TB/WP was last done back in '08 as far as records indicate. While in there, also replaced the fan bracket.

I had been getting an annoying clunk for some time under acceleration and deceleration. While under the rig one day, I took a look at the diff support bracket (lollipop). The horizontal through bolt was up against the top of the loop (compressed the bushing). I could push the diff up by hand! So, I replaced the entire assembly ($180 from Toyota). The clunk is completely gone and even the slight vibration I was getting between 45-65mph (which I had thought was possibly a CV issue) disappeared as well.

Also did the fluid replacement for both my breaks and power steering.

Finally, added the Fumoto valve (excited about doing my next oil change), refilled 7.2 qts of Mobil1 5w-30 synthetic, a new OEM Toyota filter and wrapped everything up by greasing the U-Joints and my Nitro UCAs.

For reference, my diff situation was just like this....

@geanes, actually just found this after I tagged you in the "clunk" thread

 

[BJJCruiser]

Changing the front bearings now. What's the deal with this yellow grease?

 

[Dmi]

BIG week the old '98 LX! Got the TKT021 kit and completed the TB/WP job. The belt had signs of wear, but the WP was, surprisingly, practically new (zero indication of any leaks). The TB/WP was last done back in '08 as far as records indicate. While in there, also replaced the fan bracket.

I had been getting an annoying clunk for some time under acceleration and deceleration. While under the rig one day, I took a look at the diff support bracket (lollipop). The horizontal through bolt was up against the top of the loop (compressed the bushing). I could push the diff up by hand! So, I replaced the entire assembly ($180 from Toyota). The clunk is completely gone and even the slight vibration I was getting between 45-65mph (which I had thought was possibly a CV issue) disappeared as well.

Also did the fluid replacement for both my breaks and power steering.

Finally, added the Fumoto valve (excited about doing my next oil change), refilled 7.2 qts of Mobil1 5w-30 synthetic, a new OEM Toyota filter and wrapped everything up by greasing the U-Joints and my Nitro UCAs.

For reference, my diff situation was just like this....

Almost exactly what am I doing, right in the middle of major overhaul in the front end - steering rack, front ball joints/tie rods/wheel bearings, diff brackets, timing belt. Found that timing belt with accessories was in very good condition, looks like someone did this job recently, but opted to swap with new parts anyway. Very hard to keep your self away from "while I'm here" ideas (like alternator upgrade), all the parts are more than a $1000 already.

 

[sleepycruiser]

Got the Infinity components in up front. Looking for some rears...probably just do coaxials.

Put a bunch of Kilmat in the front doors as well.

 

[Balto1223]

I used my Porter Cable for this, but I'll probably use my Makita for the hood and roof. Just faster to use. I prefer the control and safety of the PC for most of the car, though.

Do you guys know where to get cutting pads for a 10"?? All I have is a battery powered ryobi buffing wheel. trying to get it to work so I don't have to buy a da sander....

 

[Balto1223]

I'd try Armorall etc first. My experience has been that something like Armorall does a great job on hard plastic trims and will indeed make them look close to new for a while (weeks if not months). No expert but it does look like the material penetrates the plastic to some extent.

Maybe heat gun then armorall eh? eh? lol

 

[Flipped Bezel]

My old Ebay key fob cover finally broke off so I installed @suprarx7nut YotaMD titanium integrated key fob on my old Lexus blade.

Man this thing is solid!! The ignition switch/key tumbler will more than likely give out before this reinforced shell does!