What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (30 Viewers)

[tbuck]

Cold air. I have cold air!
Replaced the aft section of the rear AC line. Pretty straightforward job.
Remove 3 clamps. Twisted the head smooth off of the bolt that attaches the lines to the rear unit - so that added a bit of extra fun. Once I got through the spew of expletives that naturally follow a sheared bolt, I settled down and determined it wasn't as horrible as first thought. I was able to remove the remaining portion with relative ease and was fortunate to have the exact replacement bolt needed laying on the workbench from some recent work on another car.
Pulled the old line (corroded at 2 of the clamp locations). Snaked in the new line and attached at both ends. Secured with shiny, new clamps.
Vacuumed system and added freon.
Bring on the summer.

 

[jgray]

Tundra Antenna swap...

 

[GregLCA]

Cold air. I have cold air!
Replaced the aft section of the rear AC line. Pretty straightforward job.
Remove 3 clamps. Twisted the head smooth off of the bolt that attaches the lines to the rear unit - so that added a bit of extra fun. Once I got through the spew of expletives that naturally follow a sheared bolt, I settled down and determined it wasn't as horrible as first thought. I was able to remove the remaining portion with relative ease and was fortunate to have the exact replacement bolt needed laying on the workbench from some recent work on another car.
Pulled the old line (corroded at 2 of the clamp locations). Snaked in the new line and attached at both ends. Secured with shiny, new clamps.
Vacuumed system and added freon.
Bring on the summer.

Interesting!

I'd heard that one of the problems with leaking rear A/C is that the corroded line is almost impossible to remove/replace... I understood that it was a hardline that couldn't really be routed into place without heroic measures like removing the bodymounts, etc. I think the actual line was quite expensive as well.

I was quoted something like $1000+ for a shop to deal with it. So I just "capped off" the rear A/C and charged the remaining system. It's great for everyone except 3rd row passengers!!


-G

 

[abuck99]

Replaced the heater T's, & topped up w/ SLL coolant (about 1/2 quart).
2005 W/ 169k miles.

The T's were not in great shape. Would appear to be original. One end on each T was corroded, and broken. The plastic is brittle and discolored from lots of heat cycles. Not the best material choice IMO. I would recommend anyone doing the 90k service, include this on the list.

The hoses were in good shape, so I didn't want to replace them just yet. Planned to do this at the 180k service. I reused the factory spring clamps. They were inconveniently turned in towards the fire wall- WTF some sick humor from the factory making them 2x harder to get at. After replacing the T's I turned the spring clamps all facing front to make them easier to get at next time, but this caused one of the bottom hoses to leak. Having already added coolant, I didn't want to break open the system again and remove the spring clamp to replace with a worm gear type. I tried turning the spring clamp around to its original position and then the hose stopped leaking.

Notes:

• if reusing the factory spring clamps on the original hoses, if you experience a leak, turn the clamp around to its original position- (match up to the indentations)- that may help before you try using a screw type clamp.
• The suggestion to disconnect the entire hose group (engine & firewall) is the definitely the best option. I did not do this, but should have and will next time. I had some pcs of the T stuck inside the hose, and it was a pain to pick them out while not damaging the hose, or allowing bits to fall in the system.
  
• I would think the Dorman aluminum T would be as if not more reliable solution than the plastic as a "one & done" measure. If you're worried about corrosion, I think the plastic is no better based on how mine looked. (Just an opinion)
• Worm gear type clamps: If you plan to use this type of hose clamp, choose a good stainless clamp with rolled edges- these dont cut into the rubber, and provide more even clamping pressure.

 

[Hayes]

Added extended rear anti-sway bar links. Sourced from Man-A-Fre.

 

[dfinn]

wrapped up my drawer install

 

[tbuck]

Interesting!

I'd heard that one of the problems with leaking rear A/C is that the corroded line is almost impossible to remove/replace... I understood that it was a hardline that couldn't really be routed into place without heroic measures like removing the bodymounts, etc. I think the actual line was quite expensive as well.

I was quoted something like $1000+ for a shop to deal with it. So I just "capped off" the rear A/C and charged the remaining system. It's great for everyone except 3rd row passengers!!


-G

Nothing Herculean involved, really.
I have replaced both sections of the rear line and both replacements went in without too much effort. A little twist and turn and the lines are aluminum so they can be bent a bit if needed. Biggest issues were I encountered were the infamous two-piece 3rd clamp on the front section and twisting the head off of the rear bolt on the aft section.
On the aft section, I did jack up the body (put the jack under the running board). Also removed the spare. I was able to run the aft line in from the back, over the beam that supports the spare. I then squeezed the line under the stop (?) to get it to the correct position adjacent to the low pressure line (if that makes sense). I thought the aft line went in easier than the forward line.

2 pieces of recommended equipment: goggles of some sort to keep stuff out of your eyes and a creeper. I've had the creeper only a short time ... one of those 'why didn't I get this years ago' things.

Cost: Forward line was $110 (too high) from the local Toyota dealership and I re-used all of the hardware on the front section. Learned my lesson so got the aft section on-line from Toyota of Dallas - it was $60 and I splurged and bought new clamps ($25). Plus freon at $5 per can.
I considered capping the rear line but I just got the truck last November and plan to keep it a long time so I wanted to at least give the repair a shot. Hopefully it will hold.

 

[ihadmail]

Tundra Antenna swap...

View attachment 1270709

View attachment 1270711

How did you get it to sit so flush? I tried installing mine from the top like that and couldn't see how it was possible. I ended up just shoving it up from the bottom and using aluminum angle from the original motor bolt location to hold it up.

 

[bushdoctor]

I'm using a mount that I won at a Cruise Moab raffle several years ago. Pretty sure it's from Gamiviti. I wanted to mount the antenna in the same position as the radio antenna except on the DS, the only problem was the slope of the hood is steeper that far up toward the windshield. However, I found that the PS Gamiviti mount reversed and used on the DS compensated for the slope and was perfectly level. Boom!

Awesome. Going to check their site. I removed my factory antenna during the snorkel install, but am look to use an after market one mounted.

 

[bushdoctor]

Added extended rear anti-sway bar links. Sourced from Man-A-Fre.

View attachment 1270764

Pardon my ignorance... What benefit would be derived by adding this?

 

[Hayes]

Pardon my ignorance... What benefit would be derived by adding this?

The bar functions better in it's designed factory (un-lifted) alignment. Probably more noticeable, at extreme articulation it does bind a bit. The longer links keep it in the optimal locations for general driving, and allow more travel at the extremes.

Last but not least, running in the factory position puts less stress on the bushings. Worn sway bar bushings = clunky ride and poor anti-sway performance.

 

[92LXAZ]

Finally installed the MAF 30mm coil spacers to the rear.

 

[PabloCruise]

Replaced the "D" and "o/d" lights in the combi meter. About pulled what hair I do have out reseating the thing in the pins a dozen times until all the gauges worked.

That does not sound easy! Did you take any pictures?

 

[brianrride]

New rubba...

 

[Trunk Monkey]

That does not sound easy! Did you take any pictures?

No, by the time I was thinking I should be taking pictures was about the same point I was close to crying. There's nothing actually difficult about removing the cluster, getting it out of the dash takes some finesse with the angle, it's the damn wiring harness clips and how they work that is crazy frustrating. There's 2 harnesses that are mounted behind the cluster and two threaded bolts on the back of the cluster. You seat the cluster, start turning the bolts, which suck the cluster and harness together. But, the threads on the bolt eventually pass through the nuts in the harness so you can't overtighten and crack the harness or cluster. So, getting all of that to seat just perfect sucks. Get everything in position, tighten, reconnect battery, turn on to see what works - no oil pressure or battery gauge reading. Turn off, discon battery, reseat cluster, repeat until everything works.

 

[ihadmail]

That does not sound easy! Did you take any pictures?

I had my cluster out about a week ago. To remove it you have to remove the cover from it. It's pretty self explanatory after you remove the trim piece with your illumination dial. Just pull straight toward you when sitting in the driver seat to remove that.

Remove the trim that goes between cluster and dash. Now you can see the larger screws, 4 at the bottom that hold the cluster in and a few smaller gold screws that hold the cover to be cluster. Remove the good screws, then rhe black, then loosen the large 10mm/Phillips bolts that hold the harness to the cluster.

To get my harness to reseat I had to force my hand back there and push forward on it. The outer connection isn't too difficult to get to. If I didn't have slim girlish hands no way I could have gotten to the one closer to the radio. The key cylinder is all kinds of in the way.

All of the frustration that @PabloCruise mentioned is a bit of an understatement.

 

[scottmbbp]

Added airlift bags to the back and hauled my tent trailer 2100 miles to OBX and back camping all the way. Love the bags, should have done it earlier.

 

[planomateo]

Added a VAIStech SL3B to the 2004 LX, works awesome. Hat tip to @JohnnyUtah for the quick write up a few years ago.

SL3b-L - VAIS Technology

 

[cmck]

Striped, sanded, sanded some more, primed and then painted the salvage yard 16" factory wheel with 3 coats duplicolor graphite and 3 coats of clear. It passed the test so I ordered the 285/75 r16 Duratrac to match the other 4. Now I just have to repeat the paint process four more times.

 

[m3roar]

View attachment 1271604 Striped, sanded, sanded some more, primed and then painted the salvage yard 16" factory wheel with 3 coats duplicolor graphite and 3 coats of clear. It passed the test so I ordered the 285/75 r16 Duratrac to match the other 4. Now I just have to repeat the paint process four more times.

How much is all that going to run you in supplies?