What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (23 Viewers)

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Had the bottoms of my front leather seats redone. Timberline in Colorado Springs did a great job. Long time coming.
 
Installed my trusty Yeti. Used Yeti tie down straps from tie down kit and anchored to stock tie down point and 3rd row seat bracket. Also installed a cargo net to secure a small briefcase or carry on... Or anything small that rolls.
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Just got front bearings replaced along with new pads and rotors, front end was developing a bit of play in it, nice and tight again.
 
Got rid of rattles in the b-pillars, lost the gas pedal squeak and got rid of the dreaded sun visor creak. Simple love.
 
Got my summer tires and wheels mounted, cleaned the throttle body and MAF sensor, replaced the air filter, did a complete detail which was a two and a half day process (not necessarily dirty but I'm super anal, as people know here), and plan on doing an oil change, fuel filter, and sparkplugs my next day off.

Happy cruising!
 
Tinted driver and passenger front windows.
Replaced the two A/C line brackets that run across the top of the radiator. The Toyota dealer was wanting $39 for each bracket and they didnt sell the anti_vibration rubber bolt seperatly which is the only part I needed from the bracket kit. I located a rubber bushing kit made for GM rough Napa and some stainless steal hardware from ACE hardware and replaced them for under $10 total.
Replaced the driver side lock actuator motor for $5 and works great...painted the speak cover that's a close match to the darker brown interior.
Replaced all 4 brake lights with new LEDs.
 
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pic please and if you don't mind cost?
thanks

Hi I have a before and after picture, actually the driver's seat got a lot worse by the time I found someone to redo the front seat bottoms. Cost was $625 parts and labor, bottom of seats only.

before:



after:

 
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Replaced the serpentine belt hoping that might cure the chirp at start up, dang if the new belt isn't making more noise than the old one. The tensioner was really hard to move and stayed in place where ever I moved it. I sprayed some brake cleaner in it to try and get the gunk out and it did free up but I think the tensioner might be done. All of the pulleys spun-rolled easily, no dragging, but I think the tensioner is weak- although it is staying positioned I the correct zone according to the FSM.

Also got around to installing my Ironman Torsion Bars, and replaced the front swaybar bushes and end links. Nothing like crawling around in the garage floor all day- but it was worth it what a difference in ride quality and handling.

In the process I finally got to dust off my beast 3/4" torque wrench to torque the TB torque arm bolts to 165ft lbs.

If it's a constant chirping for a few minutes in the morning, it's most likely the tensioner pulley bearing itself. I ignored mine long enough that it seized up on a trip and had a costly reroute to a dealer. Maybe more truth to it in that it's louder now that you tightened it against the new belt.

oz of prevention... I learned the hard way, but it's not an easy job. I think thats why it's now recommended during the T-Belt, Water Pump change.
 
Still baselining the (new to me) truck, but jumped at a great deal on Tundra wheels, and happy to stay done with "Stage 1" (cooler rims, better tires, crank the TBs and inch, remove running boards & rear spoiler = less mall-cruiser and more land-cruiser;)

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Plasti-dipped the rims, tires are 265/70/18s (32.5") compared to the stock 31's - waiting to paint the center caps until I can find 2 extra stock sizers to clear hubs on the front. Unfortunately it looks like NEXT weekend is tie rods as Les Schwab said mine are shot and wouldn't bother aligning until those are done;(
 

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