Sure, it's easy. You need about 20' of cable, directly attached to the battery at one end with a fuse (I went with a nice, 100 amp AFS-style fuse), then I ran it under the truck to the back, tied to the top of the farm rail all the way back. In the rear, there's an oval 1"x3" plastic cover just below the brake light - pop that off, drill a hole (sealing with silicone when done if the fit isn't tight enough around the wire) then feed the wire up from there. The wire will come up in a small cavity behind the trim in the interior (just tug at the top of the rear corner trim and the clips will pop out) and viola, you have power to the rear. Tomorrow my Blue Seas fuse box will show up (allows for fused distribution of power) along with a 12v panel-mount power recepticle - just wire it up, pop a 1" hole in the panel and mount.
Running the wire took about an hour, front to back, and the final wiring tomorrow will probably take about 30 minutes. Each upgrade and now I have up to 200 amps* (with the appropriate fuse up front) of power available in the back.
* 200 amps is near the upper limit of current a 4 awg cable can safely transmit 20' @ 12v. But I cannot imagine needing more than 2,400 watts of power back there - 4 awg is absolute overkill for just a fridge.
Ran some hose from the compressor (which is mounted between the air filter housing and the passenger side headlight) down the inside of the front bumper and wired in a switch (also tucked under the bumper) so that I don't have to open the hood to air up.
Because of rats. Found one had been nesting in the belly pan and since the truck isn't a daily driver he had plenty of time for mischief. The WSS and O2 cables were missing a good portion of cable and although in theory they could have been spliced with some spare cable, I believe they use resistance as measurement I didn't want to risk cable that was either too long/short or had different a different resistance value compounded with the variance a couple of splices might have added so I replaced them. Time to get a cat.
No, just ran the hot back, I'll ground it to the chassis somewhere in the rear, likely a seatbelt anchor or similar. I prefer grounds as short as possible.
Ended up running 4 awg to the fuse block then used short runs of 10 awg for the hot and ground for the 12v plug. Depending on the length of the chassis ground (I assume it's short) it can likely handle more power than my 4 awg power cable.
Love the install on my ARB front air-locker diff and ARB compressor, switch location worked out very well. Thcompressor is mounted on the extra battery mount plate
I am done with my mods, love the way the truck has turned out, the signature says it all
Added the PFRAN LED kit along with reverse lights and parking lights so I decided to get some 9006 LED's for the fog lights
Compared to stock
Both
Noticed the left light is fogged so ordered some new ones off EBay and will replace the housing next week...
I also stripped and did rust treatment and then added primer to the strip between the headlights and bumper. Paint started coming off from some nicks and wanted to get it right before rust set in
Bled the AHC today with 2 cans of suspension fluid. What a freaking difference! So amazing what a smooth ride this SUV has. Also changed the fluid in the two diffs/transfer case and greased the zerk fittings.
Two days ago had the timing belt/water pump/tensioners/Rad hoses/serpentine belt etc etc replaced! Everything really refreshed this low mileage 68k LX.