My son did something similar in his 80...same size plywood, 50–lb full extension slides (per side), etc. We designed in tie down oints on the sides, but empty the thing was so heavy we never used them.
What have you done to your 100 Series this week?
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attempted to replace the wheel bearings, CV axle, etc......such was not in the cards!
Uggg, that's what my pass-side sounds like too.
Which brakes are those? Also, hit me up when youre in MT!
Plugs and Coils this weekend.
Went to check torque on the plugs at 62k after reading another post about blown plug. Found the coils on left bank were starting split at the seam. Coils are original 248k- truck ran fine despite coil housing beginning to fail.
Plugs were the standard Toyota - Denso SK20R11 with 62k miles- they looked fine and gaps were all 1.1 same as when they went in.
I had new plugs and coils on hand waiting for the next timing belt service but decided to install new the new plugs and replace all 8 coils. Went with NGK IFR 6T11 this time around to see how they behave compared to the Denso.
Went to check torque on the plugs at 62k after reading another post about blown plug. Found the coils on left bank were starting split at the seam. Coils are original 248k- truck ran fine despite coil housing beginning to fail.
Plugs were the standard Toyota - Denso SK20R11 with 62k miles- they looked fine and gaps were all 1.1 same as when they went in.
I had new plugs and coils on hand waiting for the next timing belt service but decided to install new the new plugs and replace all 8 coils. Went with NGK IFR 6T11 this time around to see how they behave compared to the Denso.
For sure. Ouray CO is definitive but we still haven’t finalized yet where in MT we’re going. The Big Brake Kit 6-piston front and 4-piston rear I have is the same BBK product I distribute here in North America and Canada.
Hey Trapper50 tell us why you decided to ditch the Wildpeak MT tires for KO2s?
Thanks!
Three reasons:
-A Rising Sun member was selling them - all 5, with about 70% tread remaining for $200 in Denver.
-They're slightly bigger - the 295/75r16 is 33.4" tall and 11.6" wide
-It's Winter (although you wouldn't know it so far) and I wanted AT's on instead of Muds.
The positive side effects of this move are that they are MUCH quieter on the road, smoother
and the vibration/drone I was experiencing at 51-54mph is gone.
I sold the 6 Wildpeaks I had for $300, so after giving a friend $100 for gas money to bring them
back down with him after a trip up to Denver, all I have spent on them is the money to have them
mounted and balanced.
The trade off is that they are 8.5 years old, but they were always garaged and had zero dry rot
or cracks in between the lugs of the tread or anywhere along the bead or sidewalls.
What did you think of the Wildpeak mud terrains on the trail?
They aired down to 16psi well, with no adverse effect, did well in the sand, weren't the very best on slickrock but that's to be expected. Didn't ever have them in substantial mud. The outside shoulder lugs cupped pretty severely even after proper alignment.
I put loops on the rear sides and side front of mine and used ratchet straps to tie it down to the load loops already installed on the floor. It may not move in regular use, but I'd rather have it secured if we ever have a crash.
Did my first self-service oil change this week, yippee
Noticed my brake fluid was getting low (down the MIN line) and figured it was time to change the pads. Good thing I did because I had just under 5mm of pad material left when a new set of pads have somewhere between 12-17mm of pad material (per google). I dont know why I psych myself up so much when I go to tackle a job. Removal of pads was pretty easy as I didnt not have a caliper clamp, I just used my good pry bar and pushed the pistons back using the old pads. When I took out the old pads I noticed that the "M" shaped wire was previously installed on the bottom instead of the top of the caliper, I imagine it probably doesnt make a difference but when I put in the new pads I placed that wire on top.
Took it for a spin did some bedding in procedure and I can check this off my list for a bit.
Took it for a spin did some bedding in procedure and I can check this off my list for a bit.
How's the clearance with that rack sticking out so far like that? I had a metal utility wagon some years back that I modified by welding a receiver tube on the bottom of the frame so I could tote the whole thing on the hitch (kinda like your rack setup, just with a cage around it, wheels removed)...
IIRC, my ground clearance at the back measured around 12" (I angled the receiver tube so that the rear was higher than the side attached to the hitch) and stuck out about two feet or so from the rear bumper and I found that it would scrape on even mild inclines...
Had my tensioner pulley seize on me and snap my serpentine belt on my 99 lx470. So went ahead and replaced entire tensioner assembly as well as idler and new belt.