I'd rather have someone put a quick and dirty spot weld on. The glue might keep up a few times (assuming properly cleaned surface). Super glue will get dissolved by the water/ humidity and high temps down there. So I'd go for a 2 component epoxy to try.
What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (47 Viewers)
- Thread starter SHUSH
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Certainly nothing fun, but I finally got around to replacing the front rotors that I bought three years ago. I lived in an apartment at the time, so I decided on the temporary solution of just replacing all the pads and the rear rotors and holding off on the front rotors and wheel bearings. As we all know, nothing is more permanent than a temporary solution and I forgot about it until I started to get some brake noise recently. I bit the bullet and ordered wheel bearings and everything the FSM says to replace and knocked it out over a couple days, and boy, was it just in time. One of my pads was down to the metal due to seized pins, the rotors were way too thin, on the verge of splitting apart in the middle due to corrosion, and one of my wheel bearings had a good amount of play.
The outside of the worst rotor didn't look good, but it wasn't alarmingly bad:
The inside of the rotor, on other hand, had me feeling lucky to be alive after driving with it:
The culprit:
Shiny and new again:
It sure is nice having quiet and smooth brakes again!
The outside of the worst rotor didn't look good, but it wasn't alarmingly bad:
The inside of the rotor, on other hand, had me feeling lucky to be alive after driving with it:
The culprit:
Shiny and new again:
It sure is nice having quiet and smooth brakes again!
GTV
SILVER Star
A new one is cheap, IMO.
I agree, thank you!
I was thinking if I use the nut and washer on the inside it will still hold the mini plate even if the glue dissolves ... I will check epoxy glue reviews ...
A new skid plate?
GTV
SILVER Star
Whoops, I misunderstood.
cruiserpatch
Supporting Vendor
- Joined
- Nov 24, 2020
- Threads
- 108
- Messages
- 1,053
- Location
- Atlanta, Georgia
- Website
- www.cruiserpatch.com
Working on a pretty neat comparison YouTube video between the following setups:
303,000 mile - 1999 LX470 on OEM Land Cruiser torsion bars, no sway bars, long travel rear (approx. 7600 lbs.)
208,000 mile - 1998 LX470 on Ironman4x4 torsion bars, extended sway bar links, standard travel rear (approx. 7400 lbs.)
565,000 mile - 2001 LX470 bone stock AHC
Now accepting bets on whose setup flexes best
303,000 mile - 1999 LX470 on OEM Land Cruiser torsion bars, no sway bars, long travel rear (approx. 7600 lbs.)
208,000 mile - 1998 LX470 on Ironman4x4 torsion bars, extended sway bar links, standard travel rear (approx. 7400 lbs.)
565,000 mile - 2001 LX470 bone stock AHC
Now accepting bets on whose setup flexes best
Last edited:
Flushed power steering fluid and added AT-205, didn't look terrible after ~20k miles.
Dug into the parking brakes, and quickly saw why they were non-functional. Bellcranks were seized to the base blocks, boots torn, and just generally horrific shape all around. Rebuilt parking brake with all new OEM parts, and new Akebono rear brake pads.
Dug into the parking brakes, and quickly saw why they were non-functional. Bellcranks were seized to the base blocks, boots torn, and just generally horrific shape all around. Rebuilt parking brake with all new OEM parts, and new Akebono rear brake pads.
Super excited to watch this! I love AHC from an engineering perspective, curious how it stacks up.
As long as the forklifts are coming out, I'd like to see the deflection with the opposite side front also flexing. I think that is where your torsion bars and sway bars will start to make some difference, especially with the body angle. Getting opposing front and rear wheels in the air is where ATRAC can be defeated. I've also been skeptical about the true impact of extended sway bar links. It would be interesting to see the same truck flexed with and without extended links.
and everyone wants me to get rid of my California AHC at 197k....
Got the front drive shaft back in yesterday with fresh OEM U-joints.
Although my wuh wuh wuh sound hasn't disappeared completely, it now happens about half as often and is much quieter.
When I was driving the LC without the front driveshaft, the wuh wuh became slightly louder.
Also hit 334k miles on the way home....but couldn't take a pic D:
When I was driving the LC without the front driveshaft, the wuh wuh became slightly louder.
Also hit 334k miles on the way home....but couldn't take a pic D:
awesomeissquid
SILVER Star
I got some new toys!
13,000lbs Winch Install +
added a 3rd battery for my accessories (car has 2 batteries from factory because it's a diesel)
Will create a separate post once the install is completely finished as I think and hope will benefit future owners interested in adding an extra battery and also making a hole in the firewall for the cables to run
added a 3rd battery for my accessories (car has 2 batteries from factory because it's a diesel)
Will create a separate post once the install is completely finished as I think and hope will benefit future owners interested in adding an extra battery and also making a hole in the firewall for the cables to run
We have similar mileage and I do love my ahc
I picked up my 100 Series from my buddy Ryan @ Midwest Auto Shield after he did a paint correction and ceramic coating. He spent a lot of time dialing in the oxidized single stage paint. The result of his hard work is an incredible transformation and the paint now has a ton of gloss and depth. See the video for before and after. I also had them ceramic coat my new Hyper Silver 100 wheels that will be going on the truck soon.
Tracked my recent front clunk to a slightly undersized outer c-clip on my CV. Luckily had a stack from Cruiser Outfitters.
Also installed my Chinese leather seat bottom. Did the driver side a few months back for $55 and it’s been great so far. Rolled the dice again when they accepted $35 offer on the passenger
All in all, just over an hour and a half. That includes removing the chair, removing the leather, and replacing both. Better pics to come, the leather needs to be on for a few days before the wrinkles from packing settle.
Also installed my Chinese leather seat bottom. Did the driver side a few months back for $55 and it’s been great so far. Rolled the dice again when they accepted $35 offer on the passenger
All in all, just over an hour and a half. That includes removing the chair, removing the leather, and replacing both. Better pics to come, the leather needs to be on for a few days before the wrinkles from packing settle.
Source please!?!?Tracked my recent front clunk to a slightly undersized outer c-clip on my CV. Luckily had a stack from Cruiser Outfitters.
Also installed my Chinese leather seat bottom. Did the driver side a few months back for $55 and it’s been great so far. Rolled the dice again when they accepted $35 offer on the passenger
All in all, just over an hour and a half. That includes removing the chair, removing the leather, and replacing both. Better pics to come, the leather needs to be on for a few days before the wrinkles from packing settle.
View attachment 3768471View attachment 3768472View attachment 3768473
Fit For Toyota Land Cruiser 1998-2007 Passenger Bottom Seat Cover Leather Tan | eBay
1998 Toyota Land Cruiser. 1998-2007 Toyota Land Cruiser. 1999 Toyota Land Cruiser. 2000 Toyota Land Cruiser. 2001 Toyota Land Cruiser. 2002 Toyota Land Cruiser. 2003 Toyota Land Cruiser. 2004 Toyota Land Cruiser.
www.ebay.com
@JAntosch. What specific unit did you order and what harness? I am about to order one next month as Mine is going out on my 2004
