my annual spray fluid film underneath it. takes 1 1/2 cans and about 30 minutes.
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Thanks for reminding me as I have yet to do it; and winter is just around the cornermy annual spray fluid film underneath it. takes 1 1/2 cans and about 30 minutes.
Does anyone know if there is a slightly larger bracket for a 2000 100, that mounts in the same location as the fuse bracket in this post, but also has space for a winch shut-off switch (like a BlueSea 6006)?Finally started on wiring, got the winch power switch bracket from @suprarx7nut mounted in without issue on my '04. Still need to decide on a winch and purchase one, but one step at a time.
Added an accessory tray from @Ramathorn15 that I've had for a few years with a 6-circuit fuse box and 100A breaker. Just running the headlights (HID retrofits) so far, I'll add in aux lighting etc. as time/budget/weather allows.
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I can't really tell what you're trying to do (maybe I missed an earlier post), but is a rivnut not an option?View attachment 3765430
The metal part that you need to screw the screw in for the plate became loose, so I put some glue for now.
As a permanent solution, I am thinking of gluing an M5 nut on a wider washer on the back of the main skid plate, then using an M5 screw instead of the OEM screw, to screw the mini plate, would that work?
Nice suggestion, I never knew about rivnuts ..I can't really tell what you're trying to do (maybe I missed an earlier post), but is a rivnut not an option?
The riv nut expands to keep it captured. You can use washers over it to keep it from pulling through weak material, if this is in the OEM plastic skid plate. Alternatively you may be able to use spring nuts depending on the fastener location relative to the opening.Nice suggestion, I never knew about rivnuts ..
I think whether I use rivnut or nut, I still have to glue it to a wide washer then glue both on the main skid plate, no?
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The riv nut expands to keep it captured. You can use washers over it to keep it from pulling through weak material, if this is in the OEM plastic skid plate. Alternatively you may be able to use spring nuts depending on the fastener location relative to the opening.
View attachment 3768975
When you bought the two straight pieces, did it come with both the rubber “gasket” and the plastic retainer bar? And how did you remove it? My kid broke the middle two pieces and I broke the top not knowing how to properly remove it.
So I've got a couple of cans of this stuff laying around and was thinking about doing it. What exactly did you spray? How careful do you have to be when applying it? Do you rub it in/off or just spray and pray? I don't have any rust issues (CA truck), but can't hurt since it's just sitting on my shelf.my annual spray fluid film underneath it. takes 1 1/2 cans and about 30 minutes.
Well, all the pieces you see are for the drivers door. The 2 straight pieces are the inside and outside pieces that wipe the window. The inside straight piece attaches to the door card with about 10 bendable tabs. You remove he door card and just take a screwdriver and bend the tabs. You will probably find it is stuck to the door card so you will have to use a trim tool to separate. The outside piece removal has been documented on YouTube several times and pretty easy to replace. I hope this is what you are asking. Let me know if you need more explanation.When you bought the two straight pieces, did it come with both the rubber “gasket” and the plastic retainer bar? And how did you remove it? My kid broke the middle two pieces and I broke the top not knowing how to properly remove it.
Ahh gotcha. For some reason I thought these came off of the back doors. The little seal flap on the forward side of the rear doors are a little messed up on mine and while trying to fix it, I broke them worse. My eyes aren’t what they used to be and I hoped that’s what you replaced! Thanks for the reply!Well, all the pieces you see are for the drivers door. The 2 straight pieces are the inside and outside pieces that wipe the window. The inside straight piece attaches to the door card with about 10 bendable tabs. You remove he door card and just take a screwdriver and bend the tabs. You will probably find it is stuck to the door card so you will have to use a trim tool to separate. The outside piece removal has been documented on YouTube several times and pretty easy to replace. I hope this is what you are asking. Let me know if you need more explanation.
I plan on slowly doing all 4 but only the drivers door so far since it had wind noise.I've got this part sitting in my garage. Did you do the other doors too or just driver's side?
OEMs were pretty much toast already. Hopefully the rubber lasts longer than that...@mokrunka
Hope you didn’t toss the OEM, my rad rubbers were trashed in 6 months, cracks and tears around the majority of the mounting holes. I did coat them before install.
My Wildpeak AT3 E Load has taken away some of the softness but I still dig it.We have similar mileage and I do love my ahc