What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (14 Viewers)

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Finally started on wiring, got the winch power switch bracket from @suprarx7nut mounted in without issue on my '04. Still need to decide on a winch and purchase one, but one step at a time.

Added an accessory tray from @Ramathorn15 that I've had for a few years with a 6-circuit fuse box and 100A breaker. Just running the headlights (HID retrofits) so far, I'll add in aux lighting etc. as time/budget/weather allows.
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Does anyone know if there is a slightly larger bracket for a 2000 100, that mounts in the same location as the fuse bracket in this post, but also has space for a winch shut-off switch (like a BlueSea 6006)?

Owl no longer makes theirs unfortunately.
 
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The metal part that you need to screw the screw in for the plate became loose, so I put some glue for now.

As a permanent solution, I am thinking of gluing an M5 nut on a wider washer on the back of the main skid plate, then using an M5 screw instead of the OEM screw, to screw the mini plate, would that work?
I can't really tell what you're trying to do (maybe I missed an earlier post), but is a rivnut not an option?
 
I can't really tell what you're trying to do (maybe I missed an earlier post), but is a rivnut not an option?
Nice suggestion, I never knew about rivnuts ..

Edit:
I just Youtubed how a rivnut works, thank you for the suggestion!

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Nice suggestion, I never knew about rivnuts ..
I think whether I use rivnut or nut, I still have to glue it to a wide washer then glue both on the main skid plate, no?

Nut-and-Tool_large.jpg
The riv nut expands to keep it captured. You can use washers over it to keep it from pulling through weak material, if this is in the OEM plastic skid plate. Alternatively you may be able to use spring nuts depending on the fastener location relative to the opening.
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The riv nut expands to keep it captured. You can use washers over it to keep it from pulling through weak material, if this is in the OEM plastic skid plate. Alternatively you may be able to use spring nuts depending on the fastener location relative to the opening.
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Thank you very much, I like Jack Nuts even better than rive nuts, will see what Home Depot has in store!!
 
Got tired of hearing wind in my left ear while driving. Fixed!

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When you bought the two straight pieces, did it come with both the rubber “gasket” and the plastic retainer bar? And how did you remove it? My kid broke the middle two pieces and I broke the top not knowing how to properly remove it.
 
my annual spray fluid film underneath it. takes 1 1/2 cans and about 30 minutes.
So I've got a couple of cans of this stuff laying around and was thinking about doing it. What exactly did you spray? How careful do you have to be when applying it? Do you rub it in/off or just spray and pray? I don't have any rust issues (CA truck), but can't hurt since it's just sitting on my shelf.
 
super easy. yes pretty much. start with the frame and get the rest like the area behind the rear axle. you can also spray inside the frame and weep holes of the doors jams.
 
When you bought the two straight pieces, did it come with both the rubber “gasket” and the plastic retainer bar? And how did you remove it? My kid broke the middle two pieces and I broke the top not knowing how to properly remove it.
Well, all the pieces you see are for the drivers door. The 2 straight pieces are the inside and outside pieces that wipe the window. The inside straight piece attaches to the door card with about 10 bendable tabs. You remove he door card and just take a screwdriver and bend the tabs. You will probably find it is stuck to the door card so you will have to use a trim tool to separate. The outside piece removal has been documented on YouTube several times and pretty easy to replace. I hope this is what you are asking. Let me know if you need more explanation.
 
Well, all the pieces you see are for the drivers door. The 2 straight pieces are the inside and outside pieces that wipe the window. The inside straight piece attaches to the door card with about 10 bendable tabs. You remove he door card and just take a screwdriver and bend the tabs. You will probably find it is stuck to the door card so you will have to use a trim tool to separate. The outside piece removal has been documented on YouTube several times and pretty easy to replace. I hope this is what you are asking. Let me know if you need more explanation.
Ahh gotcha. For some reason I thought these came off of the back doors. The little seal flap on the forward side of the rear doors are a little messed up on mine and while trying to fix it, I broke them worse. My eyes aren’t what they used to be and I hoped that’s what you replaced! Thanks for the reply!
 
After I had my Dessent bumpers installed, you could see a lot more of the underside. Since I enjoy detailing, I spent 4+ hours on the wheel wells today, using lots of different degreasers and cleaners, wire and nylon brushes, and the pressure washer. I finished up with some paint on the metal parts (took pics before I did for resale, although it has been a Cali truck its whole life), and undercarriage spray. Pretty pleased with the results, although it will get messed up at the first rain. :) Now I just need to get a grommet for the one missing in the pic, and relocate the wires and windshield washer hoses a bit higher.

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