What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (29 Viewers)

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Got the truck bogged. Proper bogged. As in, rear wheels off ground and space under them to move your hand through. Water over the headlights.

Easy recovery but woke this morning to find front passenger side flat tyre and no obvious protrusions. Swapped with the spare and will get sorted tomorrow. Another timely reminder for me to buy a bloody compressor and puncture kit. (Durrr).

Engine got a little wet, few squeeks and whines today so hopefully that will dry out and shut up.

Spending the day planning a new head unit, reverse camera and speakers. As much as I love the sound the the V8, I need my tunes.
Likely just mud in between the bead. Had this happen to me before after some good mud. Remove clean and reseat at any tire shop should fix.
 
Got my rear diff fluid changed. Bolts were quite sized but they came out eventually. Put anti size on the threads so next time should be easier.

Tried to change front diff fluid; but those damn Alan key heads! One of them stripped out when hammering on wrench to loosen so I left it alone. I'm sure the diff will survive, although my OCD might not. Why couldn't Toyota use 24 mm bolts like the rear??
 
Got my rear diff fluid changed. Bolts were quite sized but they came out eventually. Put anti size on the threads so next time should be easier.

Tried to change front diff fluid; but those damn Alan key heads! One of them stripped out when hammering on wrench to loosen so I left it alone. I'm sure the diff will survive, although my OCD might not. Why couldn't Toyota use 24 mm bolts like the rear??
The trick to easily loosen both front and rear diff plugs is to, prior to wrenching, tap INWARD on the head with a hammer to further crush the crush washers which relieves the tension on the threads. For the front diff use a long rod to hammer on thru the wheel well.
 
will also give it a shot. already broke a 3/8 to 1/4" wrench adapter as the 10mm nuts I had were 3/8".
Just got a new 10mm allen und will see how it goes.
 
Adding OEM turn signals to my fenders for extra visibility (Atlanta drivers are more blind than I am)

I’ll be adding these in a kit to CruiserPatch.com soon. Also fits 70 series 🍻

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I owned my 100 Series for several months now, and am embarrassed to admit that I just now noticed that I’m missing the plastic cover on my factory roof rack. Are these still available from Toyota?
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Did the infamous heater tees. Definitely a pain 😄. One was pretty pooched but the other one practically disintegrated as soon as I looked at it. So I spent a good hour messing around with hoses and clamps, digging out old crumbled plastic etc.

On a side note; for "burping" the coolant what is the correct way?

Being as I didn't have a proper funnel that would hold a seal I just topped up the radiator, put vehicle on ramps with rad cap open, Jerry rigged the funnel to it and let it warm up to operating temps with heat cranked up; definitely some bubbles but nothing like expected even though I let it run for 15 minutes and revved it up. Vehicle never overheated and even took it for a spin down the dirt roads; I wasn't easy on the gas and still the temp gauge stayed as normal. I think the purpose of radiator cap is to burp itself?
 
Did the infamous heater tees. Definitely a pain 😄. One was pretty pooched but the other one practically disintegrated as soon as I looked at it. So I spent a good hour messing around with hoses and clamps, digging out old crumbled plastic etc.

On a side note; for "burping" the coolant what is the correct way?

Being as I didn't have a proper funnel that would hold a seal I just topped up the radiator, put vehicle on ramps with rad cap open, Jerry rigged the funnel to it and let it warm up to operating temps with heat cranked up; definitely some bubbles but nothing like expected even though I let it run for 15 minutes and revved it up. Vehicle never overheated and even took it for a spin down the dirt roads; I wasn't easy on the gas and still the temp gauge stayed as normal. I think the purpose of radiator cap is to burp itself?
The radiator cap is designed to keep pressure in the system up to a pre-determined level and then let steam escape if the pressure rises beyond that to protect other cooling system components - it will certainy not let your system "burp" itself. You did everything to properly burp the system. I would also, try taking the rad cap off, squeeze the top rad hose a few times to get the additional air out.
The other thing that could be helpful is keeping an eye on the overflow bottle, if there is air in the system, the coolant level may go down over the new few days. If that happens, just top it off.
 
Thanks for response and yes I also did pinch the upper rad hose a few times with cap off. Will definitely check the reservoir next few days. Appreciate it
 
The radiator cap is designed to keep pressure in the system up to a pre-determined level and then let steam escape if the pressure rises beyond that to protect other cooling system components - it will certainy not let your system "burp" itself. You did everything to properly burp the system. I would also, try taking the rad cap off, squeeze the top rad hose a few times to get the additional air out.
The other thing that could be helpful is keeping an eye on the overflow bottle, if there is air in the system, the coolant level may go down over the new few days. If that happens, just top it off.
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Did the infamous heater tees. Definitely a pain 😄. One was pretty pooched but the other one practically disintegrated as soon as I looked at it. So I spent a good hour messing around with hoses and clamps, digging out old crumbled plastic etc.

On a side note; for "burping" the coolant what is the correct way?

Being as I didn't have a proper funnel that would hold a seal I just topped up the radiator, put vehicle on ramps with rad cap open, Jerry rigged the funnel to it and let it warm up to operating temps with heat cranked up; definitely some bubbles but nothing like expected even though I let it run for 15 minutes and revved it up. Vehicle never overheated and even took it for a spin down the dirt roads; I wasn't easy on the gas and still the temp gauge stayed as normal. I think the purpose of radiator cap is to burp itself?
I have always done just what you say. I fill it up (including the overflow bottle to the full line) and take it for a drive. Later when its cooled down I open the cap and top it off, and also about half the overflow bottle. I check it probably once more and it will be good to go. I just did this with a new radiator and timing belt job (drained the block). I probably added a quart and a half after the first drive.
 
I have always done just what you say. I fill it up (including the overflow bottle to the full line) and take it for a drive. Later when its cooled down I open the cap and top it off, and also about half the overflow bottle. I check it probably once more and it will be good to go. I just did this with a new radiator and timing belt job (drained the block). I probably added a quart and a half after the first drive.

My driver side engine block drain didn't budge last time I tried it. I was kind of afraid to push it though. Ended up making a huge mess during replacement of my oil filter cooler hoses.

Should I just go for it next time and try to get it open? Has anyone broken one of these?
 
I owned my 100 Series for several months now, and am embarrassed to admit that I just now noticed that I’m missing the plastic cover on my factory roof rack. Are these still available from Toyota? View attachment 3739572
Last I lost I bought from parsouq, about a year ago, plug vin to get correct part.
Expensive little things to loose or break..
 
Finally finished raising the spare tire carrier and got the steelie spare that came with my Tundra rims mounted in place. The existing brackets were rusting away and I had to drill out three of the six bolts so as usual for anything underneath this truck, a 30 minute project turned into a few days. Also discovered a rust hole straight through a weld on the frame so I patched that up. Not the prettiest but it's stronger than a hole, so ...

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It looks like my tow hitch is going to limit the size of a spare that I can pack under here. Not 100% sure an inch larger tire will fit so I might have to stick to 32s because that tow hitch sure ain't coming off.
I can't speak to that particular hitch, but I am able to squeeze in a 33" equivalent KO2.
 
The radiator cap is designed to keep pressure in the system up to a pre-determined level and then let steam escape if the pressure rises beyond that to protect other cooling system components - it will certainy not let your system "burp" itself. You did everything to properly burp the system. I would also, try taking the rad cap off, squeeze the top rad hose a few times to get the additional air out.
The other thing that could be helpful is keeping an eye on the overflow bottle, if there is air in the system, the coolant level may go down over the new few days. If that happens, just top it off.
As per my experience and @2001LC's advice, park with the front of your rig uphill for a few days and check/top off each morning.

To clarify, drive your rig as normal and just park uphill overnight. Not that you need to leave it parked. 😀
 
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I used one of these...^ ^ ^I can confirm that it comes with the proper adapter for the 100 Series.

Installed on radiator, filled until it started showing a volume of coolant in the funnel...
Started the engine, turned front and rear heaters on, let it get to operating temp so
that the t-stat opens then just let it run for a while (also squeezing the upper radiator hose)
making sure the volume of coolant in the funnel didn't sink to zero.

Double-checked two days later and topped it off just a touch.
 

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