Yeah I’ve been reading on that. I was dumb to drop 150 at Napa lesson learned thank you I’ll get that model.
What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (29 Viewers)
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Is that the factory display? Or did it actually replace the screen?
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Service and grease for the HDJ this morning then straight back into work haha
Yes sir
My long time friend and client ( @Corbet ) happened to have a factory Master Key blank for my year 100, complete with programmable fob and he was nice enough to give it to me. So I called up Andy at YotaMD and got a new case ( @suprarx7nut ) went to the dealer, had them cut via VIN, then went over to Mauser's thread. At first I didn't realize that programming the fob with a signature for the immobilizer was different from programming the fob for door lock duty. I did the door lock dance first and it seemed to have taken but it wouldn't start the truck. Something the guy said in the video for doing the locks made sense..."hopefully the key programming went well" Oh..Okay. Read more Mauser thread and boom, the brake and accelerator dance. Worked first try. So now, spare Master 
Mauser's thread
So glad to have two now.
Mauser's thread
So glad to have two now.
Wrestled with front shocks this week. Ironman nitros came out easily. Getting the extended length Dobinsons in though was a bear. Had to compress them myself and quickly get them lined up in the shock mounts. Getting them back out will be a PITA.
Interesting that Dobinsons doesn’t use metal washers between the bushings and upper shock mount. Side benefit of that is a few squeaks I had are gone…I’d have never guessed it was my Ironman shocks/washers against the shock mount.
Starting rears later today….
Interesting that Dobinsons doesn’t use metal washers between the bushings and upper shock mount. Side benefit of that is a few squeaks I had are gone…I’d have never guessed it was my Ironman shocks/washers against the shock mount.
Starting rears later today….
Had a local detailing shop do a paint recovery. There are still a few scratches, but they did an excellent job! A few places where they thought I might have to get the clear coat sanded and re-sprayed, but they fixed it!
Wheels need sand blasted and powder coated but they look pretty good now.
Wheels need sand blasted and powder coated but they look pretty good now.
Finally decided to fabricate a mount just in front of the drivers seat so it can hold my Element extinguisher. Utilizing the latest in CAD technology (Cardboard Aided Design) i was able to make a template to transfer onto some 1/8” aluminum plate i had leftover when i made the fairing for my roof rack.
I’ll cut it and then bend the tab so it follows the contour of the seat base
I’ll cut it and then bend the tab so it follows the contour of the seat base
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GTV
SILVER Star
Got the rears on. The new shocks are beefy and gnarly to maneuver into place. Had to rig up my own shock compression system. Still unsure of my washer and bushing configuration but other than needing a bit more work to tighten the top nut to near 50 foot lbs I think this will work.
Rebound at 4
HSC at 5 back, 4 front
LSC at 0 for now while I keep dialing in
Note: these are the 80 series 4” shocks to give me longer travel. I have extended timbrem bump stops and TD variable rate springs going in next.
Rebound at 4
HSC at 5 back, 4 front
LSC at 0 for now while I keep dialing in
Note: these are the 80 series 4” shocks to give me longer travel. I have extended timbrem bump stops and TD variable rate springs going in next.
Any on-road ride impressions yet compared to the Ironman setup?
Still rides very much like an off-road truck. But with all settings dialed to 0/softest it’s pretty boaty. Slow speed bumps feel softer but not crazy different. But with a little speed the bumps are soaked up.
Still very much dialing in. Haven’t even been on freeway yet.
My first pass at increasing settings has firmed up the ride a good bit but not sacrificing how much more smooth the ride is compared to the IM nitros.
Hope that’s helpful!
Les Summer
SILVER Star
Sorry no pics this time. Just changed out the fuel filter on my 2000 LC100. Who knows if it was the original... Currently at 266,190 and running very good. I hit the threads with lube every other day for about a week before even touching the fitting that goes into that fuel filter with a wrench, so no messing around you know. I replaced with OEM Toyota fuel filter for another 200k miles of fun. I finger threaded the pipe threads into the filter finger tight, and then applied wrenches to make pretty tight, just a hair away from too tight. I don't want fuel coming out ya know. I used a proper line wrench for the fitting and a proper fitting wrench to hold the filter still while loosening and it was no problem at all.
Replaced Hood and Tailgate struts, changed the oil and oil filter, and drain and filled the AT.
mdcoa
SILVER Star
Last week or two:
New set of Cooper Discoverer AT3LTs in 235/85R16. Got 50k miles on the last set and was super pleased with their on/off-road performance I all kinds of weather and terrain.
Two new (NAPA reman) rear calipers and one front.
New genuine brake pads all around.
Two factory CV clamps had failed (one by just letting grease out one by breaking completely so replaced those with McMaster hose clamps and filled the CVS with Lucas Xtra Heavy duty grease, which is the only urea-based grease I could get my hands on at the local parts shops.
Also in-seized the freewheel lever on my winch. Turns out that if you don’t use a winch for two years after installing it, things corrode and stick to each other…
Also got new PA registration—strange to be in a state where you get a license plate ANd a temporary piece of paper for the window. I wonder if they’ve taken a look at what the other 49 states are doing
. At least it was really expensive.
Now I really need to give it a good wash, rubbing compound, and wax….it’s been like 16 months
.
New set of Cooper Discoverer AT3LTs in 235/85R16. Got 50k miles on the last set and was super pleased with their on/off-road performance I all kinds of weather and terrain.
Two new (NAPA reman) rear calipers and one front.
New genuine brake pads all around.
Two factory CV clamps had failed (one by just letting grease out one by breaking completely so replaced those with McMaster hose clamps and filled the CVS with Lucas Xtra Heavy duty grease, which is the only urea-based grease I could get my hands on at the local parts shops.
Also in-seized the freewheel lever on my winch. Turns out that if you don’t use a winch for two years after installing it, things corrode and stick to each other…
Also got new PA registration—strange to be in a state where you get a license plate ANd a temporary piece of paper for the window. I wonder if they’ve taken a look at what the other 49 states are doing
. At least it was really expensive. Now I really need to give it a good wash, rubbing compound, and wax….it’s been like 16 months
.
That lower washer doesn't look correct to me. Usually, the washers with the collar like that go between the 2 bushings (in contact with the steel of the shock mount itself) to help locate the bushings properly, and to keep the bushings from getting torn up on the mount. That collar would go up inside the hole of the actual mount.
The proper top and bottom washers will fit tight to the shock shaft.
But, without seeing the washers a little closer (and uninstalled) it's tough to tell for sure.
By the looks of it, I agree with bryson…
You do not want a steel washer collar pushing up against an aluminum shock body. The aluminum shock body is no match for the hardened steel collar of the washer.
At > $1200 a pair, I’d take a closer look at that arrangement.
You do not want a steel washer collar pushing up against an aluminum shock body. The aluminum shock body is no match for the hardened steel collar of the washer.
At > $1200 a pair, I’d take a closer look at that arrangement.
Zooguy
SILVER Star
Do you have a separate write-up or more pictures of this I'm wanting to do it soon.
I didn't have to do much on the wiring end, since my truck already had all the factory audio stuff removed when I bought it. It is running an aftermarket amp and separate wires run to the doors for the speakers!
Builds - The Story of Blue
Some updates are due: Alternator high charge issue I found a few wires for the accessories (running from the second battery) were compromised by mice! At least one of them was shorting to the ground causing the alternator to pump out excessive volts (upto 16.3v o_O ). Fixed all the wiring and...
forum.ih8mud.com
