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I got my set from here, hope this helps
Sandgrabba Mats To Suit Toyota Landcruiser 100 Series Sahara VX Five Door Wagon 1998-2007 - Sandgrabba Moulded Floor Mats
Sandgrabba Mats To Suit Toyota Landcruiser 100 Series Sahara VX Five Door Wagon 1998-2007 - Sandgrabba Moulded Floor Matswww.nobullaccessories.com.au
The dead pedal would be in a simliar spot, but I have no idea if the floor layout is swappable.
Lol not the front mats, just the second row matsLook for an Aussie freight forwarder. You obviously pay for their service, but you have retailers ship things to them, then they send it along to you.
Mats would be interesting at least, since they all drive on the wrong side there
But thanks for the suggestion let me check that out.
Haha I have this same issue! Would love to be able to sit lower and a but further back.
That’s just one company that sells them there’s several I’m sure one would ship to the US surely. Have a google and see what other companies sell them perhaps.Lol not the front mats, just the second row mats
Love that rolling tool tray!Replaced my steering rack-
The original rack @ 225k hadn't started leaking yet but was feeling some looseness, some new torque steer, and found the inner tie rod loose where it screws into the end of the rack (red arrow).
View attachment 3329626
At this mileage I had considered replacing the ITR's and then the Outer TRE's which was more than half way to the cost of a new rack. So I pulled the trigger on new 44250-60100 from Eric at Serra Toyota Decatur. $578 and free shipping. Ordered the rack on Monday and it was sitting at the house by Thursday- well packed and fast delivery.
I had read and re-read the "How To replace your own steering rack" thread, planned ahead to have the needed parts on hand, and some extras just in case. @PabloCruise posted a series of images and steps to help and I think @Ayune put all that into a nice step by step document you can download to follow along if you don't have the FSM- and @2001LC had some good tips as did a dozen others. Its great DIY thread ( Link to thread: Replace Rack)
So with all that DIY tech support and instructions you'd assume its a pretty straight forward job- right? For a one and done project- technically it was fairly easy, but for me time consuming. The prep-steps took more time than physically taking out the rack. And then some stubborn parts like the 19 year old return line fitting that freezes up and you twist the return line until it looks like a piece for licorice. At the steering rack the return line fitting was frozen to the end of the tubing- nothing to do but embrace the sinking feeling that you're going to replace more parts.
View attachment 3329630
A few years ago I bought the Sunsong High pressure & low pressure replacement lines 3403598 Rock Auto- $95 vs OEM at several hundred $$$. So I had the replacement sitting in wait just in case. If you've read my other posts, you may know that I am an ardent OEM parts user but in some cases "better" vs "best" is a narrow window and you weigh the cost benefit. The SunSong lines fit fine, and they dont leak (yet) so I'll carry on.
Back to set-up and prep work. There's some short cut methods to expedite time and save some consumables. Not sure how much time I saved but I did eliminate dumping coolant. If you are replacing lines- its good practice to flush the system with fresh atf before you tear everything apart- I guess even if you dont replace the lines, its probably a good idea . You want to be careful to take good measurements before you start removing things, and pictures help too. I was anal about disassembly to ensure my reassembly alignment was correct and the steering wheel straight after buttoning it up. The extra time spent paid off and thankfully nailing the install, it drives straight and steering wheel is lined up- now just waiting a week to get in to confirm proper alignment at my preferred shop. Just about everything you need to know is in that How To thread- one of better how-to threads on the forum. Cudos to contributors of that thread.
Tools: Having a 17mm line fitting crows foot helps along with some good long handle crescent wrenches for the TRE's- and a good ball joint separator for the TRE. I suck at keeping my tools organized for the task- when I think I have everything I need I need something else I end up back and forth to the tool box with lots of up & down off the floor, then loosing the tool under my creeper that I just set down. So I made a tool caddy and parts holder repurposed from an old bread tray to help me keep organized while under the truck. Rollers, magnetic strips on the sides to hold sockets, tools and hardware- even hold an oil drain bucket. Yes its Fugly but its sturdy, cheap and effective.
View attachment 3329660View attachment 3329663
Parts: for the 03-07 rack you can reuse the lines ( as long as they come off with out damage). You'll probably need new outer TRE's ( I wouldn't install a new rack and reuse old TRE) need new sealing washers for the HP line ends, some quality SYN ATF. But I replaced more than required as some of my fittings were toast and new made the install a better end result.
Here's the list of parts I used- for 03-07(I reused virtually nothing you can do it for less) total parts cost $1030 ( discounted parts)
View attachment 3329656
Good luck on your next wrenching project
That rolling tool and parts tray is awesome. I was just telling a buddy next time I am "under the truck" that I need to rethink my tools/parts organization. I will definitely be stealing this as a base idea.Replaced my steering rack-
The original rack @ 225k hadn't started leaking yet but was feeling some looseness, some new torque steer, and found the inner tie rod loose where it screws into the end of the rack (red arrow).
View attachment 3329626
At this mileage I had considered replacing the ITR's and then the Outer TRE's which was more than half way to the cost of a new rack. So I pulled the trigger on new 44250-60100 from Eric at Serra Toyota Decatur. $578 and free shipping. Ordered the rack on Monday and it was sitting at the house by Thursday- well packed and fast delivery.
I had read and re-read the "How To replace your own steering rack" thread, planned ahead to have the needed parts on hand, and some extras just in case. @PabloCruise posted a series of images and steps to help and I think @Ayune put all that into a nice step by step document you can download to follow along if you don't have the FSM- and @2001LC had some good tips as did a dozen others. Its great DIY thread ( Link to thread: Replace Rack)
So with all that DIY tech support and instructions you'd assume its a pretty straight forward job- right? For a one and done project- technically it was fairly easy, but for me time consuming. The prep-steps took more time than physically taking out the rack. And then some stubborn parts like the 19 year old return line fitting that freezes up and you twist the return line until it looks like a piece for licorice. At the steering rack the return line fitting was frozen to the end of the tubing- nothing to do but embrace the sinking feeling that you're going to replace more parts.
View attachment 3329630
A few years ago I bought the Sunsong High pressure & low pressure replacement lines 3403598 Rock Auto- $95 vs OEM at several hundred $$$. So I had the replacement sitting in wait just in case. If you've read my other posts, you may know that I am an ardent OEM parts user but in some cases "better" vs "best" is a narrow window and you weigh the cost benefit. The SunSong lines fit fine, and they dont leak (yet) so I'll carry on.
Back to set-up and prep work. There's some short cut methods to expedite time and save some consumables. Not sure how much time I saved but I did eliminate dumping coolant. If you are replacing lines- its good practice to flush the system with fresh atf before you tear everything apart- I guess even if you dont replace the lines, its probably a good idea . You want to be careful to take good measurements before you start removing things, and pictures help too. I was anal about disassembly to ensure my reassembly alignment was correct and the steering wheel straight after buttoning it up. The extra time spent paid off and thankfully nailing the install, it drives straight and steering wheel is lined up- now just waiting a week to get in to confirm proper alignment at my preferred shop. Just about everything you need to know is in that How To thread- one of better how-to threads on the forum. Cudos to contributors of that thread.
Tools: Having a 17mm line fitting crows foot helps along with some good long handle crescent wrenches for the TRE's- and a good ball joint separator for the TRE. I suck at keeping my tools organized for the task- when I think I have everything I need I need something else I end up back and forth to the tool box with lots of up & down off the floor, then loosing the tool under my creeper that I just set down. So I made a tool caddy and parts holder repurposed from an old bread tray to help me keep organized while under the truck. Rollers, magnetic strips on the sides to hold sockets, tools and hardware- even hold an oil drain bucket. Yes its Fugly but its sturdy, cheap and effective.
View attachment 3329660View attachment 3329663
Parts: for the 03-07 rack you can reuse the lines ( as long as they come off with out damage). You'll probably need new outer TRE's ( I wouldn't install a new rack and reuse old TRE) need new sealing washers for the HP line ends, some quality SYN ATF. But I replaced more than required as some of my fittings were toast and new made the install a better end result.
Here's the list of parts I used- for 03-07(I reused virtually nothing you can do it for less) total parts cost $1030 ( discounted parts)
View attachment 3329656
Good luck on your next wrenching project
yes I meant to say floor mats. Thanks I'll see if they ship to the states.
I am leaving to climb the nose and will be gone for a bit, Will do after.
There's a thin steel bracket that the plastic bumper attaches to that will need to be trimmed. You will also have to drill some holes in the plastic to mount the plate in the middle of the bumper. Other than that, it's all bolt on.
