What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (65 Viewers)

[94SRUNNER]

A few weeks back I replaced the idler pulley and the tensioner pulley. One of them was squeaking when the ambient temps were in the thirties and below. From what I could tell they were original and boy they were due. Bearings weren’t completely toast but they rough when spun.

Today I replaced the rear hood seal. Several of the clips were broken and the holes on the seal that clips were secured in were torn causing the seal to flop around on the passenger side. On top of that the seal was almost completely flattened so it really no longer sealed well. I believe this was the source of wooshing noise coming from the passenger side I would hear while
driving, even at slow speeds. I went for a short drive after the replacement and didn’t hear the wooshing. I’ll be going on a longer drive later and hope it remains a thing of the past. The seal was <$18 from Partsouq (PN:5338360031)
Old seal

New seal

 

[tip]

Pulled and resealed the roof rack. Plus the center unused bolts. Used butyl tape again.

Definitely needs some touch up paint work this summer. In a hurry now to find an interior leak so this will have to wait.

 

[MountaineerLC]

Thanks Classy. So does that what angle of repose means? As a wheel/shocks rise the angle becomes larger so less chance of hitting the shocks and springs? What is the purpose of doing away with a bumper that wraps around the whole front? Thanks for your feedback. Cheers.

I'm only familiar with the angle of repose in geological terms.

As for skied plates, they taper down to the lower control arm mounts and protect what needs protecting without being excessively big (which equals unnecessary weight). The general shape is pretty universal amongst IFS vehicles. General areas of concern are the lower radiator, oil cooler, steering and and the front/lower portions of the engine. The shocks and springs (in this case torsion bars are good to go as is)

As for bumpers, they do protect the entire front, but generally taper from the frame rails up to the wheel wells to provide additional clearance off road. The factory plastic bumpers look like they offer more protection, as they are bigger, but are easily damaged off road or by animal strikes.

 

[AU Bushbasher]

Thanks mountaineer. I’m a miner/ metallurgist so I know angle of repose as well but scratch my head when trying to apply it to a front bumper/ skid plate. Hahaha. I’ll talk to the designer and see what he can accommodate. Cheers mate.

 

[harrydunn]

Stopped at the salt flats today on our way to Moab. Amazing place.

 

[Sayer Lane]

Step one of updating the rear suspension components complete. Installed these SPC rear lower control arms today in about 30 minutes. I also used all new hardware; nuts, bolts, and washers. Definitely something anyone with basic hand tools and a torque wrench could accomplish. Really happy with the quality, they are a bit beefier than the factory arms. They also have what SPC calls an xAxis joint, also know as a cross-axis joint. It allows a little better movement and articulation as well as being a sealed self lubricating joint.
The Ironman adjustable upper control arms should be here Monday for install! From there, I’ll measure and adjust my pinion angle.

Pro tip: Use a ratchet strap attached to the lower shock mount and to a forward section on the frame if you need to align the holes. Way easier than using a centering punch.

 

[ZG MN]

Hooked up the GROM BT3 this afternoon. Took 20 min. Sound quality is significantly better than the cassette to bluetooth situation I had going before.

 

[mcharfauros]

No big doings. Ordered a set of mirrors last week, they just showed up today, so got em changed out. Bought my 04 last month which came with some aftermarket Muth signal mirrors. The driver's side was janky already, turns out the lower clips are broken, and the lights are done. Not wanting to replace them with the $110 price tag on em, ended getting that pair via Modern Toyota’s March deal of 25% off Genuine Parts and free shipping. 90 bucks all in, pretty stoke with that.

Busted lower clips.

LED tap deleted.

Was diggin’ the LED signals, but the Muth Mirrors cost more.

OEM stuff, way better built.

 

[OC Fan]

New rear bumper (coastal off-road) and new springs to accommodate the increased weight (OME 2864). Still a longs ways from the capability of my 80 (RIP) but it is about what a 100 can provide.

Next up is Gobi rack.

 

[ls6]

75w-90 t-case fluid swap and hit all the driveline zerks w/ grease.

 

[daohaus]

The end is near friends. Had some time today and tackled the mounting pads for each of the roof mounting points. It's crazy because each of the pads when you attached the 90 degree angle bracket it canters outwards from 6-10 degrees, each location varies. Since I'm using delrin for the mounting pads, it was easy to shave off that much on the table saw so that the top of the mounting pad when the angle bracket is attached sits perfectly 90 degrees. In hindsight, I would have drilled the holes for the bolts after this as the holes I previously drilled no longer is perfectly perpendicular to the roof. So I had to drill the holes to account for the lean.

Next, I clamped on the side rails and marked off the excess material for the angle brackets to cut off. Attached a few crossbars and it's looking half decent. It's far from perfect but the things I learned this time IF I were to redo things again would be a lot better. Some of the mounting tabs you see line up where a cross bar would be so I have to cut the bracket down low enough so it'll clear the cross bars, again hindsight is 20/20.

 

[pdot]

Finally completed the valve cover gaskets, and then replaced the PS reservoir. One of my bigger projects to date. Took it for a drive and no obvious spills or leaks. Fingers crossed.

Put the Slee 2nd battery tray and compressor in while I was at it. No wiring yet though.

 

[DownByTheRiver]

Finally found time to work on the front end. Picked up a new compressor the other day, too. First new one I've ever bought. Temporarily put baby in the corner until I get a longer hose (heh). Have copper lines for a drier but will probably never get to it due to laziness.

Got the rest of the front end apart and then started installing the 9000 bits and pieces that were 25% off. Dropped serious money into this damn thing because of that sale.

Also finished the sway bar mount/frame fix. My neighbor is going to have to weld this with his mig unfortunately. Too much powdercoating i can't get to on the inside of the frame, which is dragging s*** into the tig weld.

Between all this stuff and the bumper, it's been down for 3 months because I've been traveling for work so much. Still have to do the timing belt, radiator, Ts, and replacing some other rusty garbage before I can really enjoy it again.

 

[pili]

I probably should have swapped these upper control arms out a long time ago...

 

[ShenValley100LC]

did you just pack it full of grease? I've got a new axle on the way, but need to limp my 8 mile daily commute until it gets here.

I squirted like maybe a half the toyota cv grease tube in there, wiped off the boot, put a patch of flex seal tape on there and then small piece all the way around. I then went 7,000 miles of wife DD'ing it and off-roading it through bog holes on the weekend and never had an issue. All it does is keep grease in and water out, and it seems from others I've wheeled with you can go a very very long time before you ever hear a click.

 

[ShenValley100LC]

Thanks mountaineer. I’m a miner/ metallurgist so I know angle of repose as well but scratch my head when trying to apply it to a front bumper/ skid plate. Hahaha. I’ll talk to the designer and see what he can accommodate. Cheers mate.

Any chance he meant angle of approach but got autocorrected?

 

[AU Bushbasher]

Any chance he meant angle of approach but got autocorrected?

I bet that’s what is was! And that makes more sense. If the sides of the front bumpers are high it allows for more clearance when approaching obstacles?

 

[ShenValley100LC]

I bet that’s what is was! And that makes more sense. If the sides of the front bumpers are high it allows for more clearance when approaching obstacles?

Yes, and generally the closer to the wheel the less need for protection anyways because you generally place your wheel on the highest obstacles/rock. Between that and the beefy front lower control arms your not going to land your shocks on a rock.

 

[mcharfauros]

28Mar22

Small kine fix. Pulled the running boards a few weeks ago, which left the front fender liners kinda flapping in the wind. Ordered up the front mud guards along with the associated brackets and hardware. OEM stuff of course.

7662260060 Mudflap Left
7662160070 Mudflap Right
7664260020 Mudflap Bracket Left
7664160020 Mudflap Bracket Right
9011906779 Bolt, W/Washer (6)
9015960576 Rocker Panel Molding Screw (2)
9018906211 Ground Effects Kit Grommet Screw (2)

No Mudflaps

Driver’s Side all in

Passenger side all in

Part Numbers

 

[Sayer Lane]

Beefy parts showed up today.