What do I have? 40 newb (4 Viewers)

[clrussell]

Going to be a LC with a whole different feel. Taking copious notes. You ditching the 52’s?

I don’t know, I like the look. It’s like OEM+ with the 52s

I dream of other options though. But I think I just like swapping things. Especially wheels and tires

 

[Chungas Revenge]

I don’t know, I like the look. It’s like OEM+ with the 52s

They “look” the part and they give your LC options w/out sacrificing the OE appearance. Regardless, I’ve enjoyed watching the evolution.

 

[clrussell]

That looks great.

Use a clutch hose with a banjo bolt fitting on the slave cyl, and use some sort of heat sleeve, and you’ll find clearance is fine.

Which clutch and flywheel are you using?
If using stock 00-06 GM parts, I’d recommend replacing the Clutch MC with a pre-70 single circuit brake MC. It will bolt on and have a larger bore and will help with clutch disengagement with the GM clutch.

This is some “clutch” info.

Thanks for the pro tip

 

[cruisermatt]

Wish I could take credit, but that is one of my technicians idea's actually.

 

[clrussell]

Wish I could take credit, but that is one of my technicians idea's actually.

I owe him a beer or 3. Stupid easy and simple.

 

[clrussell]

I guess I should make sure I have hood room

 

[clrussell]

Needed to get a start to see where I was.

I’m changing to the Gm muscle car oil pan so I can only do so much now. But I can do the rest when it’s upside down and easy to work with.

 

[charliemeyer007]

I'd be worried about boiling clutch fluid.

 

[Chungas Revenge]

Definitely going to need a shield of some sort. What are you thinking?

 

[clrussell]

Definitely going to need a shield of some sort. What are you thinking?

Wrapping the exhaust, heat sleeve over clutch line.

Wing and a prayer for good measure.

 

[cruisermatt]

sleeve over the clutch line and it will be fine.

 

[bikersmurf]

Hauled off the donor today. Picked up my new seats. Working on more little things.

Radiator moved 1.5” and lowered as much as the shroud would allow, fan shroud chopped up to make room for new outer ring.

Upper hose is stock suburban that’s cut up.

Working on battery tray next. Going to a side post OEM battery for the LS

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Looking great. One thing I found, when I did my SBC swap, wat that my driveshafts are 1" different in length. If I had mover the engine back 1/2 an inch they would be interchangeable. Now, 29 years later, my rear driveshaft has developed a small amount of play in the splines, and eventually I'll need to replace/rebuild it.
At the time I still had stock steering and the #6 spark plug was barely accessible with a 13/16" socket and a 3/8" universal. Half an inch further back and I'd have to lift the engine to change that plug with a socket and universal. 3 years +/- after I did the swap (1999) I found a spark plug socket that combined the universal and the socket and I had tons of clearance.
Now I have Scout II P/S and the stock manual pedestal is bare... so it's even more of a moot point. When I rebuild the rear shaft, I'll either make it slightly shorter and use a longer slip joint... or not worry about it and it'll be my grandkids problem in 2055... and they will be able to 3D print a new driveshaft... if internal combustion engines are even a thing by then. Hopefully it won't be full on Mad Max by then.

 

[bikersmurf]

sleeve over the clutch line and it will be fine.

I'd use a braided stainless steel line for good measure... have a bias towards them since I replaced my rubber clutch line, that touched the exhaust pipe, with one in '92 and it still looks like a brand new line today.

 

[clrussell]

Saving some part numbers for later.

Not sure this lower hose will work as is.

 

[clrussell]

Getting an early start today.

Step one is swapping to the 60 series top plate. Gears have some rust pits on them. Nothing to stress on currently.

 

[clrussell]

Looking great. One thing I found, when I did my SBC swap, wat that my driveshafts are 1" different in length. If I had mover the engine back 1/2 an inch they would be interchangeable. Now, 29 years later, my rear driveshaft has developed a small amount of play in the splines, and eventually I'll need to replace/rebuild it.
At the time I still had stock steering and the #6 spark plug was barely accessible with a 13/16" socket and a 3/8" universal. Half an inch further back and I'd have to lift the engine to change that plug with a socket and universal. 3 years +/- after I did the swap (1999) I found a spark plug socket that combined the universal and the socket and I had tons of clearance.
Now I have Scout II P/S and the stock manual pedestal is bare... so it's even more of a moot point. When I rebuild the rear shaft, I'll either make it slightly shorter and use a longer slip joint... or not worry about it and it'll be my grandkids problem in 2055... and they will be able to 3D print a new driveshaft... if internal combustion engines are even a thing by then. Hopefully it won't be full on Mad Max by then.

So out of curiosity I measured my drive shafts this morning thanks to this post.

They are within 1/4” of each other so pretty cool I’ll be able to use the same length shaft for front and rear.

I have an extra rear shaft so I’ll have it lengthened to the same length and have a spare that will fit front and rear.

Cool that it worked out that way as that was something I had not even considered

 

[Land Shark]

Like I say “rather be lucky than good any day “

 

[bikersmurf]

So out of curiosity I measured my drive shafts this morning thanks to this post.

They are within 1/4” of each other so pretty cool I’ll be able to use the same length shaft for front and rear.

I have an extra rear shaft so I’ll have it lengthened to the same length and have a spare that will fit front and rear.

Cool that it worked out that way as that was something I had not even considered

That’s why I share my experience on mud. There’s so much I had to figure out on my own since ‘91… and mud is now here and it’s a huge resource that greatly increases what is possible.

It wasn’t something 18 year old considered until after the drive shafts were made. In ‘96 I had the Downey conversion manual that came with the SBC conversion kit, and the Advance Adapter’s engine swap instructions. After studying them till I knew they by heart. I considered everything else that I could think of and that the manuals listed.

Once I decided where it needed to be I paid a NHRA certified welder to come weld in the scab plates and mounts. I had everything prepped and he had all four mounts welded in within arriving at my house. He charged told me $55… I handed him $60 and told him to keep the charge.

Considering it’s 30 years later, and our engines are within 3/8” of being in the same position… I think we did something right. Hopefully your swap works out at least as well as mine. My first $300 runner lasted 21 years and the second $300 runner is somewhat over 8 years.



Another nugget that comes to mind is that the 1980s mini truck TRE I used is about 5” longer than a 40 series TRE. It was the perfect length, thread, and taper to connect to the pitman arm I put on a Scout II P/S box. This means all the TREs and rods are stock Toyota and can be easily sourced. The only thing I did was to reverse the taper of the bung on the mini truck TRE so I could use a Monroe “60 Series” steering stabilizer.

 

[clrussell]

A lot was accomplished today. However these are the best highlights.

 

[Chungas Revenge]

A lot was accomplished today. However these are the best highlights.

Indeed sir, indeed.