And push it like a fresh flower is on it?I think a little less skinny petal…
What Did You Do with Your 80 This Weekend? (54 Viewers)
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
I think a little less skinny petal…
Less skinny pedal? **** that
@Dubbinchris :Exactly, this is a very controlled and therefore safe situation. Four 16 foot 2x4’s are also way cheaper than any type of lifting contraption.
Not sure why I’ve been getting such a hard time about this? I turn all my own wrenches and do all my own mods. 1/2 the people on here likely can’t do any of that.
I was just giving you a hard time when I first posted the "no friends" thing.
I'm just poking fun at you. No harm intended.
Lighten up. Don't take it so seriously. If you can't laugh at yourself, you need to get out and relax.
All of us that turn our own wrenches don't usually enlist the help of others, therefore, we tend to invent contraptions to get things done.
Damn. Enjoy the sarcasm and laugh more.
I would fully expect others to make fun of me if I posted things that I do. I just have enough life experience to not take pictures of the stuff I do.
I rarely ask for help. I don't like the quality of work others do. I trust no one.
Ring a bell?
I probably would have set up a winch or rope and pulley setup in the ceiling of my garage so I could do mine by myself. I would have spent nearly as much as the RTT cost to make a way to handle it when I could have spent half as much buying the thing made to do it.
Happy 4th! Keep all your fingers attached!
Make me think of @baldilocks and the videos he posted of his truck when he thrashed it a while back.
I byloyn
Yeah I definitely don’t trust anyone. And my garage is too low to set up anything in the ceiling. Tires have to be deflated to 5 psi so o even squeeze it in.
You must like some punishment; you drive Audis. I like rally, so there's a few Audis I like, such as the Quattro S1.
Last edited:
Right? Pullies in the shop. Using the winch on the front. Needs to be way complicated.
Stainless brake hoses. Had them locally made thinking I’d save a bunch. Saved maybe $50 with what shipping could’ve been. $200 for all 7.
Installed a new OEM rear driveshaft and pinion seal on the rear differential on my 96 LC.
I reused the crush sleeve and torqued the pinion nut about 3/16" past the original location. Pinion nut torque range starts at 145 lb-ft and maxed out at 253 lb-ft. I landed on 195 lb-ft to get the nut in that position and to have something that "felt" like 9 lb-in of rotational torque.
I took it for a drive and the clunk is significantly reduced. I need to take it on the highway to get it up to speed to see if I got the pinion bearing too tight. Better to have it smoke it close to home than 400 miles from home....
The old DS yoke was worn out and I got sideways movement in the splines. The u-joints and all were original at 347K miles. Someone had done work on it before me, because two of the nuts had been rounded off , so I bought all new hardware. After long drives, it would clunk hard on take off as the splines pushed past the worn area.
I greased the heck out of the new parts, then pulled the zerk on the yoke before I took it for the test drive. I still need to install the zerk.
I reused the crush sleeve and torqued the pinion nut about 3/16" past the original location. Pinion nut torque range starts at 145 lb-ft and maxed out at 253 lb-ft. I landed on 195 lb-ft to get the nut in that position and to have something that "felt" like 9 lb-in of rotational torque.
I took it for a drive and the clunk is significantly reduced. I need to take it on the highway to get it up to speed to see if I got the pinion bearing too tight. Better to have it smoke it close to home than 400 miles from home....
The old DS yoke was worn out and I got sideways movement in the splines. The u-joints and all were original at 347K miles. Someone had done work on it before me, because two of the nuts had been rounded off , so I bought all new hardware. After long drives, it would clunk hard on take off as the splines pushed past the worn area.
I greased the heck out of the new parts, then pulled the zerk on the yoke before I took it for the test drive. I still need to install the zerk.
Curious how much you paid for the OEM rear driveshaft?
Finally! It’s happening tomorrow!
The 4Hundo build for @Alpine4X4.
Bless you for your patience, Andy!
Please excuse the ugly garage refrigerator; it’s actually quite reliable—like a Cruiser!—more so than the Viking in the kitchen. I just now noticed how horrible it looks in the photo. I need a new unit!
The 4Hundo build for @Alpine4X4.
Bless you for your patience, Andy!
Please excuse the ugly garage refrigerator; it’s actually quite reliable—like a Cruiser!—more so than the Viking in the kitchen. I just now noticed how horrible it looks in the photo. I need a new unit!
Last edited:
A few truck porn shots.
Last edited:
I think it was $353 when I bought it three years ago.
So it's been sitting around the garage for 3 years?
Yes.
And the seal, nut, and crush sleeve are still in this shyt hole I call a garage and have been there since 11/2019 and I STILL cannot find them, so I had to buy a new seal.
Just send it!I think a little less skinny petal…
It the highly desirable color, like white Cruisers, just add the desirable Toyota bright coloured stripes
That is a great price.
It was purchased 7/29/2020 and was $343.86 plus $32.57 shipping for a total of $376.43 from McGeorge Toyota.
That same part is $380.08 today from McGeorge. (plus shipping)
For the price of replacement U-joints, then the time I would need to spend swapping them, it is cheaper in the long run for me to replace the entire shaft. I am considering selling my old DS to those folks that need trail spares. My old one would certainly work for a trail spare, just not for my DD that I rely heavily on my truck. The U-joints are not even loose in the old shaft. I cleaned it up in the parts washer and will reassemble and grease it before I "place it in storage".
