Haha thanks! I haven't really had the time to test them out that much since I just put them on yesterday. But with out any load, it stops the travel at just the right point but I feel like it needs to be spaced downward a little more for the heavy loads since they are a little soft. I can imagine these would work great on some whoops though!
What Did You Do with Your 80 This Weekend? (47 Viewers)
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Sounds like you need more lift
I am always reading on this forum that a 2" lift will clear 35's but it's definitely not true unless you want to limit your travel with bump stops.
What suspension and tires are you running? Maybe consider a 1" spacer on the front....
As to your actual question on bolt specs I have no idea
Yeah, probably need more lift in the front when I drop the stops just so I do have some extra up travel on bumps.Sounds like you need more lift
I am always reading on this forum that a 2" lift will clear 35's but it's definitely not true unless you want to limit your travel with bump stops.
What suspension and tires are you running? Maybe consider a 1" spacer on the front....
As to your actual question on bolt specs I have no idea
Right now I'm on 35" cooper's which seems smaller than other 35's and have a 2' ironman lift with medium load springs on the front with 1/2" spacers and heavies on the back. I really like the low center of gravity approach so I'm aiming for that this on this build.
I'm planning on moving to 1 inch spacers on the front, stop extension and probably a shock extension so I don't loose some down travel.
Any thoughts on shock extensions like these?
I ran 35s on sacked out stock springs on my LX w/out any rubbing or bumpstop work in the front. On stock wheels, I did have some rubbing in the rear fenderwells. Im on 2" springs now and 37s/Method 105s and still no bumpstop work or trimming. I had the same rubbing in the rear, so I ended up going to a 1" wheel spacer and fixed that. Maybe mine is a "freak", but they are out there!!!! Just had the conversation this morning, that no two of the pigs seem to sit the same even if running identical parts. So many variations of weight and where its placed.Sounds like you need more lift
I am always reading on this forum that a 2" lift will clear 35's but it's definitely not true unless you want to limit your travel with bump stops.
What suspension and tires are you running? Maybe consider a 1" spacer on the front....
As to your actual question on bolt specs I have no idea
Lucky you! I am not so fortunate though. Here's a pic of the front at full compression and i cannot turn right in this situation.
This might be because I drilled a 1/2" hole on the larger open space on the castor correction bushing to allow more flex. Apparently it works pretty good, too good even with swaybar still attached.
Are you running adjustable track bars?
And now looking at your pic, I was wrong. I did take the bumper ends off when I put the 315s on it. Now that Im thinking about it, I took the ends off first, and then the whole bumper when I put a winch and plate on. Ran it that way for the winter, and then started on the real work.
You could try the baseball bat method to roll the fender lip some. I like the low approach also. Mine on the 37s still fits in my 7' garage door w/about 2" to spare.
Hmm I'll look into that, I'd like to keep the Stock plastic fenders but if Its possible to bash that lip and maybe cut the fender underneath to hide the smashed lip I'll do it! Lol
You should be able to do it with the flares on, you dont need that much room I dont think. Its a slow process, but it has worked before for me in the past on other projects. Easiest way is probably pull the drive flange and use a floor jack....
Seems like you may be looking for a reason to cut..... and be careful, its a slippery slope!!!! Next thing youll be looking at 3 links, black boxes, LS swaps, etc..... its a sickness!!!!
Ughh a 3 link would just beYou should be able to do it with the flares on, you dont need that much room I dont think. Its a slow process, but it has worked before for me in the past on other projects. Easiest way is probably pull the drive flange and use a floor jack....
Seems like you may be looking for a reason to cut..... and be careful, its a slippery slope!!!! Next thing youll be looking at 3 links, black boxes, LS swaps, etc..... its a sickness!!!!
but for now this'll do. It's still a family outing car so cant go too crazy with her. Thank for the advise though. IL seriously be considering that method.
Your just not wheeling it hard enough. Come follow me for a day of wheeling and we will get it to rub
I have never heard of them and for my uses I wouldn't consider them either.
Completed a road trip.
Sadly no camping or off road adventures. I was going to drive around the beach on the Oregon coast but the beach we used to drive on is closed.
Left Friday around 4 pm. Got home Sunday around 630 pm
983 miles
1573 km's
56.185 gallons
$245.91
17.817 avg mpgs.
The one leg where we were on flatter ground and not going 75 I manged 20. It drops a bit going 75 and pulling passes.
I thought I'd made my first trip in this without issue but about 200 miles from home I got the diesel alternator Christmas tree lights. I thought I had fixed that by cleaning and reseating the plug. I am now going to probably pull the alt and get it rebuilt locally and replace the plug on it with a new OEM one. Thankfully the lights don't really effect anything and we made it home without issue.
It's also since stopped doing it.
Sadly no camping or off road adventures. I was going to drive around the beach on the Oregon coast but the beach we used to drive on is closed.
Left Friday around 4 pm. Got home Sunday around 630 pm
983 miles
1573 km's
56.185 gallons
$245.91
17.817 avg mpgs.
The one leg where we were on flatter ground and not going 75 I manged 20. It drops a bit going 75 and pulling passes.
I thought I'd made my first trip in this without issue but about 200 miles from home I got the diesel alternator Christmas tree lights. I thought I had fixed that by cleaning and reseating the plug. I am now going to probably pull the alt and get it rebuilt locally and replace the plug on it with a new OEM one. Thankfully the lights don't really effect anything and we made it home without issue.
It's also since stopped doing it.
On a side note I really need a rear bumper and tire carrier, but God damn they're expensive
Installed my Coastal Off-road bumper
Also it may be time to get a wat valve body for the ole 442. No converter lock up in third is annoying. I'd like to pull hills in third with the converter locked.
In the same boat.
Did you do it yourself or went to Toyota? Wondering what it cost
