The 100 series pad might work for some but why, is it harder then the actual 80 series pad? Why not give the Power Stop pad a run?
What Did You Do with Your 80 This Weekend? (35 Viewers)
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93yotasr5
Come and take it
The 100 series pads are slightly wider giving a slight bit more bite on the rotor. They will (in theory) still wear the same time wise as an 80 series pad. Now I can’t speak for the 90 series power stop pad compared to a AZ 100 series pad. I want to say I paid $40 maybe for the front pads. Not sure what the power stops cost.
The power stop pads might be and an additional $15.
I have been running 100 Series OEM pads for almost 20 years. That's the only type for me
I get around 60,000 miles out of a set.
I get around 60,000 miles out of a set.
Ha! It works. I was driving around in the morning and realized I was about to miss the turn of the clock and came to a quick stop.
Orange Hat
SILVER Star
Played with the AC this weekend...swapped out the evaporator, expansion valve, and drier. I want to preface by saying that I was only able to do this based on reading about every post on this great forum and felt very confident going into this project. I also bought what I thought was the best (all parts OEM; Yellow Jacket gauges; Robinair vac pump; Nylog sealant).
The good:
Vacuumed system for 30 mins, no leaks after another 30 mins, continued on vacuum for about 5 hrs
Added refrigerant (~30 oz) and got right at 40 deg F at the vents (wife really enjoyed that)
The bad:
After I pulled the gauges, I heard a very slight hiss at BOTH the low and high pressure Schrader valves
Tightened them and they still leaked...ugh
Here's a pic of the Schrader valves I used (the one's I believed were ok to use)...Santech MT0059. Frustrating but, honestly, glad that I proved to myself that I could do it and that I can just as easily do it again...after I get better Schrader valves! Any different recommendations?
The good:
Vacuumed system for 30 mins, no leaks after another 30 mins, continued on vacuum for about 5 hrs
Added refrigerant (~30 oz) and got right at 40 deg F at the vents (wife really enjoyed that)
The bad:
After I pulled the gauges, I heard a very slight hiss at BOTH the low and high pressure Schrader valves
Tightened them and they still leaked...ugh
Here's a pic of the Schrader valves I used (the one's I believed were ok to use)...Santech MT0059. Frustrating but, honestly, glad that I proved to myself that I could do it and that I can just as easily do it again...after I get better Schrader valves! Any different recommendations?
Hey there. What size tires and lift you running? Those 315’s?
Installed the snorkel,
Deleted the 100% clogged charcoal canister and vcv (both available if you pay shipping and maybe throw in for a 6 pack?) with the help of some drawn schematics found here on Mud - I can't remember the user - then installed an in line vapor filter with replaceable cartridges and check valve in place of (Immediate, noticable power and mileage gains.)
Installed the ceramic tint on my front and rear doors as well as my rear lift gate,
Greased up my moon roof mechanism and tracks,
Replaced all the window runs in the doors,
Greased the window mechanisms and tracks,
Replaced all vapor barriers in the doors,
Replaced all the door seals,
Ordered new front calipers and pads,
Installed @yodaTEQ rear light brackets and mirror light brackets as well as the engine bay light (I swear to God, if he makes more stuff for the 80, I'm buying it. TOP NOTCH!)
I'm sure there's more but that's off the top of my head. Mexico is closer every day.
Did the DBBB ride this weekend
Finally installed some fog lights I’ve had in a box for about a year… tied them to a oem-style switch. Painted my black hub caps as well. Washed and looking good 
.
.
93yotasr5
Come and take it
Rotated the tires, cleaned the windows and drove her around today.
Looks great!Finally installed some fog lights I’ve had in a box for about a year… tied them to a oem-style switch. Painted my black hub caps as well. Washed and looking good
View attachment 3124865
View attachment 3124868
View attachment 3124869
Which lift/lift size and tire size are you running?
Thank you!
The lift is around 2.5 inches. I used a combination of Old man Emu springs and Fox 2.0 shocks. Tires are 33s.
Some weekend shenanigans
More photos here
forum.ih8mud.com
More photos here
The misadventures of Charlie Sh*t Brindle Brown
4:88's and lots of hills. But I also try and keep my rip ems under 3400. I know the engine can rev higher but it's also known to blow head gaskets..... I just ripped mine up Vail pass at 4800rpms.
forum.ih8mud.com
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93yotasr5
Come and take it
Awesome! Where is that at? Nice little amethysts crystal.
Found the crystals on big rock candy mountain.
GeoSights: Big Rock Candy Mountain, Utah’s volcanic past, Piute County - Utah Geological Survey
Located a few miles north of Marysvale in Piute County, Big Rock Candy Mountain consists of altered volcanic rock in various shades of yellow, orange, red, and white.
geology.utah.gov
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****** Israel Negev Desert - deep into the tribe's (Arab Beduins) lands. *******
The first trip of the season 2022
it was hot, very hot still, the video was taken early in the morning everybody was asleep. Good Turkish coffee and a hot shower
The first trip of the season 2022
it was hot, very hot still, the video was taken early in the morning everybody was asleep. Good Turkish coffee and a hot shower
ktmracer01
SILVER Star
Spent a couple of hours swapping out my PHH hose since I've already changed out all of the other hoses in the engine compartment. For those of you who haven't done it before, it is a must if you're wanting to do any preventative maintenance that hasn't been done before. The best piece of advice....remove the AT dipstick tube. I've done too many of these, and every time I start, I try to convince myself that I can work around it...don't.
Old hose came off in 4 pieces. Not as good as the last one, but not as bad as others.
While I was at it, also replaced the heater hose on top of the thermostat that is no longer available through Toyota. Used a gates hose #18787. I'll post pics of that when I get back into town.
While I was replacing the lower coolant hoses, I figured out why the PO had two hose clamps on it. I had been driving it around on a hope and a dream. It took well over an hour to change the lower hoses after scraping and brushing off all of the mineral deposits on the intake tube. It amazes me, and I constantly ask myself why people cut corners on essential pieces of equipment. At least I know it's been done correctly now, and it'll have Toyota red in it while I own it.
Old hose came off in 4 pieces. Not as good as the last one, but not as bad as others.
While I was at it, also replaced the heater hose on top of the thermostat that is no longer available through Toyota. Used a gates hose #18787. I'll post pics of that when I get back into town.
While I was replacing the lower coolant hoses, I figured out why the PO had two hose clamps on it. I had been driving it around on a hope and a dream. It took well over an hour to change the lower hoses after scraping and brushing off all of the mineral deposits on the intake tube. It amazes me, and I constantly ask myself why people cut corners on essential pieces of equipment. At least I know it's been done correctly now, and it'll have Toyota red in it while I own it.
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TRDdrew
SILVER Star
- Joined
- Mar 14, 2019
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@ToyotaMatt at VintageTEQparts.com hooked me up with a new alternator tensioner kit and a new washer bottle, the PO for some reason had removed the factory tensioner (probably striped it out) and the belts kept coming loose every couple of drives. Didn't want to trash the new belts so this should solve that issue. Long live the 3FE
thatcabledude
GOLD Star
