What Did You Do with Your 80 This Weekend? (38 Viewers)

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Installed all new air ducts. Ice cold air, right where it’s needed.

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What paint are you using for the differential and under body. I did mine two years ago but didn't get too medieval on the rust and noticed the POR-15 FLAKING OFF 😞. I'M ready to go back at it with with a grinder with a wire brush and some sweat. Mahalo Bruddah
Etch after you wire brush. The paint will stick a lot better.
 
That’s what scares me about using paint undercoatings - accelerating rust if not prepped super well - and why I’ll only use fluid film or equivalent for those situations.

On that note, been tending to a couple little spots of roof corrosion and paint touch up. No big deal, all surface. Only little spots on the truck where the paint isn’t solid - I think a little moisture got in through hairline cracks before I got it. Grind, sand, clean, steelstik. Gave it a bit, grind level, sand, etch primer, paint. Touched up a couple spots I had done a couple years ago while I was at it, and I’m impressed with how well this cheap putty works. Pretty rocksolid, totally sealed, still nice clean metal underneath. Didn’t really need to redo it, but wanted a fresh surface.

Ps - don’t use flexseal. I touch up the paint on these areas once in a while, had a can of that crap laying around this spring so threw a coat on without thinking. “Why not?” Seems like it did something weird to the paint. Wasn’t bad to get off with a razor, but annoying. Dumb idea, that was. That’s ultimately why I redid this.

I’m not worried about the roof since you can’t see it, but went with rustoleum automotive enamel this time. Unless you’re extra picky, seems like a good match for black onyx.

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That’s what scares me about using paint undercoatings - accelerating rust if not prepped super well - and why I’ll only use fluid film or equivalent for those situations.

On that note, been tending to a couple little spots of roof corrosion and paint touch up. No big deal, all surface. Only little spots on the truck where the paint isn’t solid - I think a little moisture got in through hairline cracks before I got it. Grind, sand, clean, steelstik. Gave it a bit, grind level, sand, etch primer, paint. Touched up a couple spots I had done a couple years ago while I was at it, and I’m impressed with how well this cheap putty works. Pretty rocksolid, totally sealed, still nice clean metal underneath. Didn’t really need to redo it, but wanted a fresh surface.

Ps - don’t use flexseal. I touch up the paint on these areas once in a while, had a can of that crap laying around this spring so threw a coat on without thinking. “Why not?” Seems like it did something weird to the paint. Wasn’t bad to get off with a razor, but annoying. Dumb idea, that was. That’s ultimately why I redid this.

I’m not worried about the roof since you can’t see it, but went with rustoleum automotive enamel this time. Unless you’re extra picky, seems like a good match for black onyx.

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I used Flextape...works wonders! 😁. Actually tried the JB weld stick and that didn't do sh*t. It wouldn't adhere to anything.
 
How did you use it? Works great for me.
I just kneaded the parts together and tried to fill the holes but it didn't stick to anything and just fell right into the existing holes. I had a trip to go on so really I just used the Flextape and it's been fine for the time being.
 
I just kneaded the parts together and tried to fill the holes but it didn't stick to anything and just fell right into the existing holes. I had a trip to go on so really I just used the Flextape and it's been fine for the time being.
Ah, yeah... there’s definitely a technique to filling holes, cause it does want to just fall through otherwise. Prep matters a lot too. After the wire wheel, sanding & thorough clean with rubbing alcohol, it works well for me (so, clean metal surface with good texture). However, it’s definitely more sensitive at first and doesn’t always feel like it wants to adhere. I set it as well as I can, and keep going back over it as it sets (which as you probably know is quick). Clean gloves help too - once you do it a few times, the residue on your fingers grips the new putty and wants to pull it up. I alternate fingers and also used mid-knuckles (not sure how to describe that part of a finger, hah) until I needed fresh gloves.

Going back to the patches I did 2 years ago showed me how well it had bonded. When grinding it down, it felt like an in-between of factory paint & metal. On that note, that paint is thick!

I used flex tape temporarily when my sunroof & windshield were leaking, and it definitely worked well, but didn’t use it long term. My fix for those was NP1 poly adhesive sealant.. just did a fresh bead this week in prep for winter
 
The old man picked up a side by side a few months. He had never been up to sand mtn so we headed up this morning. Took him to the top of the world and let him get the lay of the land.

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Sweat equity. Degreased, Wire wheeled, ground off the OEM weld spatter on front axle (come on Toyota) then primed and repainted. Looks superb. I'm going to start working my way back from the front, clearing all the surface rust off this thing and repainting the frame, mounts, axles etc...well worth the 4 hours it took.


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You are my hero!
People bark at me about spending time on corrosion control and inspection, but I refuse to go on a 200 mile trip to the back country at 13,000 feet without knowing what, exactly, I'm relying on to get me there and back.
 
Love it, especially the move to pair with the 10 speed. there was talk at one time to offer a kit. Is this still being considered?
Man, this is a great reminder I need to stop spending $$ on silly crap and get saving for this..... Especially getting caught on I-70 @ Eisenhower a few weeks back maxing at 35MPH up the hill to the tunnel...
Big Block and a six speed manual is the cure! Trailer? what trailer?
 
Complete rebuild of front diff including diff housing .... first time i ever see a cracked diff housing lol.
I keep having more respect for the Landcruiser, the car really keeps going well, broken brake disks, cracked diff, worn front diff hub and the list goes on and still drivable and functional .....
Out with the old and in with the new..... slowly but surely :D


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Amazing! Takes a licking and keeps on ticking!
 
Started to build a two story storage divider for my tuffy console that is pretty much a bottomless pitt.
Also glued the plastic thing back on. A sandal makes a great pressure holder
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Sweat equity. Degreased, Wire wheeled, ground off the OEM weld spatter on front axle (come on Toyota) then primed and repainted. Looks superb. I'm going to start working my way back from the front, clearing all the surface rust off this thing and repainting the frame, mounts, axles etc...well worth the 4 hours it took.


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This is exactly what i wanted to do !!! Love it! Please share more pics and steps i really need to do this else my OCD will drive me crazy 🤪
 
This is exactly what i wanted to do !!! Love it! Please share more pics and steps i really need to do this else my OCD will drive me crazy 🤪
My process:

1. Degreaser
2. Power wash
3. Tap loose flake with a welders hammer to break free any loose debris
4. Wire brush, wire wheel on drill, wire wheel on angle grinder
5. Brake kleen
6. Power wash again
7. Wipe with acetone
8. Rust reformer
9. Paint with high heat enamel
10. Coat with Surface shield
 

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