I just got a new toyota fusible link and I noticed that toyota uses electrical tape on this part. I will never let someone tell me electrical tape is not as good as heat shrink again lol.
What Did You Do with Your 80 This Weekend? (32 Viewers)
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Continued the rear heater delete. #wishihadalift
Fabed up a socket to fit the rear axle nut so I can preload the bearings properly. Just used some stuff lying around the shop: 2” exhaust pipe, 5/16” round stock, and a spare 1/2” socket. Ugly but functional!
Finally got around to sticking a tire on this and mounting license plate. More bits for Cobbles the 81!
Fun facts, the wheel is I believe/maybe/coulda? been an original from this truck based on the antique tire that was on it. It was a 31'' Bridgestone Desert Dueler with a tube....? Replaced with slightly less antique tire of correct size changed with tire spoons. Better then no spare.
Main spindle is 1/4 wall DOM, yes I butchered the bottom hole. A tidy oval patch cut to fit would tidy it up. So would paint. Flat bearing surfaces are slices of schedule 80 pipe that was close to right size, Round bit of carrier side is schedule 40 2'' pipe cleaned up a tad.
Threaded bit sticking up is a large stainless stud that threads up through a nut welded to inside of main DOM chunk and is replaceable, Castle nut is 'custom' and also stainless. Slight preload, nice and slick slathered with grease before install. May get a couple fittings in time, also considered grooving pivot for grease channels but meh.
Adjustable for both height and depth. Main tubing came from a junk transmission jack base.
Tar-darrrrr! Future plans include a second pin latch jobby right on the pivot to help hold it shut as well as pin it open, and some sort of rubber/springy positive stop jobby to stop the wiggles. With the exception of spring pin all of this was made from stuff I had on hand. Go go gadget hoard them treasures...lol. Also chopped up and fit some new used shocks donated from rear of a '19 f350 up front. Remember, its what you build, not what you buy. Cheers!
Fun facts, the wheel is I believe/maybe/coulda? been an original from this truck based on the antique tire that was on it. It was a 31'' Bridgestone Desert Dueler with a tube....? Replaced with slightly less antique tire of correct size changed with tire spoons. Better then no spare.
Main spindle is 1/4 wall DOM, yes I butchered the bottom hole. A tidy oval patch cut to fit would tidy it up. So would paint. Flat bearing surfaces are slices of schedule 80 pipe that was close to right size, Round bit of carrier side is schedule 40 2'' pipe cleaned up a tad.
Threaded bit sticking up is a large stainless stud that threads up through a nut welded to inside of main DOM chunk and is replaceable, Castle nut is 'custom' and also stainless. Slight preload, nice and slick slathered with grease before install. May get a couple fittings in time, also considered grooving pivot for grease channels but meh.
Adjustable for both height and depth. Main tubing came from a junk transmission jack base.
Tar-darrrrr! Future plans include a second pin latch jobby right on the pivot to help hold it shut as well as pin it open, and some sort of rubber/springy positive stop jobby to stop the wiggles. With the exception of spring pin all of this was made from stuff I had on hand. Go go gadget hoard them treasures...lol. Also chopped up and fit some new used shocks donated from rear of a '19 f350 up front. Remember, its what you build, not what you buy. Cheers!
- Joined
- Sep 17, 2003
- Threads
- 65
- Messages
- 4,465
- Location
- Sunnyvale, CA
- Website
- www.george4wd.taskled.com
Given right now every day is the weekend...
Our 80's passenger front seat stopping moving backwards, could move forward which of course meant less and less leg room
We caught the problem as soon as it occured (some 7 or so weeks ago) and of course stopped trying to move the seat - which meant as 'passenger' I was sitting in a back seat.
Anyhow, I've been recovering from some reasonably major surgery and it's a job that has been waiting for me to reach a physical milestone date that occured last Saturday. Nice weather the past few days, so today was the day to tackle the repair with a handful of appropriate bits from gamiviti @nakman (huge thumbs up!).
Removed the seat, simple 4 bolt removal and then pivot seat back to unplug the plug from the seat. Then man handle out - felt fantastic to be able to move something reasonably heavy out of the vehicle and then back in - my wife helped hold the light end to get it to/from the tailgate which was my work bench for the repair.
Checked and the plastic threaded bung was mostly out and clearly its threads were stripped. Grab a new one from the gamiviti bag, dab of white grease and screw it back in place. Put seat back in well enough to plug the cable back in for a quick test to ensure the gears were still ok and everything was good. 4 bolts back in and job done.
Interesting that the driver's seat bung is still nicely in place and that seat gets moved fully forward (for my wife) and fully back (for me) and thus must move at leat 10X as often as the passenger seat. Maybe more use is better for the bung
cheers,
george.
Our 80's passenger front seat stopping moving backwards, could move forward which of course meant less and less leg room
We caught the problem as soon as it occured (some 7 or so weeks ago) and of course stopped trying to move the seat - which meant as 'passenger' I was sitting in a back seat.Anyhow, I've been recovering from some reasonably major surgery and it's a job that has been waiting for me to reach a physical milestone date that occured last Saturday. Nice weather the past few days, so today was the day to tackle the repair with a handful of appropriate bits from gamiviti @nakman (huge thumbs up!).
Removed the seat, simple 4 bolt removal and then pivot seat back to unplug the plug from the seat. Then man handle out - felt fantastic to be able to move something reasonably heavy out of the vehicle and then back in - my wife helped hold the light end to get it to/from the tailgate which was my work bench for the repair.
Checked and the plastic threaded bung was mostly out and clearly its threads were stripped. Grab a new one from the gamiviti bag, dab of white grease and screw it back in place. Put seat back in well enough to plug the cable back in for a quick test to ensure the gears were still ok and everything was good. 4 bolts back in and job done.
Interesting that the driver's seat bung is still nicely in place and that seat gets moved fully forward (for my wife) and fully back (for me) and thus must move at leat 10X as often as the passenger seat. Maybe more use is better for the bung
cheers,
george.
Attached wire to limb risers, hooked turnbuckle onto roof rack, easy removal. It took me about an hour, which means it would take you about 5 min.
I do not have an ARB number so I had to make this chingadera post dealeo.
Zona
mi
I do not have an ARB number so I had to make this chingadera post dealeo.
Zona
whats the point of that? really?
the larger bolt and bracket is to support outter lid.
Your Hood looks as sun beaten as mine from the AZ Sun.. I just did a polish and wax, and it looks way better... This is the time to do it before we hit 150 million degrees here in PHX..
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I Keep forgetting to ask about what a reasonable, logical, practical, rational thought to building rigs is.
damn, I’m always doing that!
I’ll probably forget again. Remind me on my next post.
Zona
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Hahahaa, yeah, hot is right around the corner—Yours looks to be in a lot better shape than mine—looks
I dont think I have enough paint on the hood to wax it? Hahaha
Zona
I like your headlight,
what's name, P/N?I like your headlight,
Spasibo.
Spec-D® - Chrome LED Dual Halo Headlights
Chrome LED Dual Halo Headlights (LH-LCR90H-KS) by Spec-D®. 1 Pair. Chrome housing, clear lens. Bulb: H7 low beam (included), H1 high beam (included). Spec-D products will give your vehicle a stylish, more personalized appearance. They are well designed and carefully crafted to serve you for...
Zona
Hahahaa, yeah, hot is right around the corner—Yours looks to be in a lot better shape than mine—looks
I dont think I have enough paint on the hood to wax it? Hahaha
Zona
[/QUOTE]
Mine was worse than yours.. the pictures don't show it well.. But I was thinking I would need to paint it.. So I had nothing to loose with a good buffing and then waxing.. I think I bought myself another 4-5 years before a respray is needed.. Try it. You might be surprised how much paint is left under all that oxidation!
Mine was worse than yours.. the pictures don't show it well.. But I was thinking I would need to paint it.. So I had nothing to loose with a good buffing and then waxing.. I think I bought myself another 4-5 years before a respray is needed.. Try it. You might be surprised how much paint is left under all that oxidation!
[/QUOTE]
Ok, you’ve convinced me viejo, Tell Me what wax and I’ll order it online. Thanks. I’ll send some pics when finished.
Zona
Originally had the Napier Precision Vents on. They did the job but were a little restrictive. Measuring “juice worth the squeeze” I was disappointed with the amount of cooling I was getting considering I cut two 9x11” sections out of my hood. I had a set of Rod Louvers laying around from another project that’s been sold and decided to install them. WOW. Huge difference in flow of trapped under hood heat.
3” dobinson lift and diff fluid change.
I noticed a few weeks back that I had never changed the V belts....ever. 
ordered a set from @NLXTACY . So with so much time on my hands I decided it was out with the old and in with the new. The old ones were certainly in need of replacement. The new ones are OEM. OEM belts are matched in specific pairs and tied up with a little string so when you tension them they tighten within the same tolerance.
ordered a set from @NLXTACY . So with so much time on my hands I decided it was out with the old and in with the new. The old ones were certainly in need of replacement. The new ones are OEM. OEM belts are matched in specific pairs and tied up with a little string so when you tension them they tighten within the same tolerance.
