What Did You Do with Your 80 This Weekend? (91 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Anyone know the paint code for the dull military Toyota green that some of our bolts have?

VC would look nice in that color.
 
Anyone know the paint code for the dull military Toyota green that some of our bolts have?

VC would look nice in that color.

The lighting is a little misleading in the photo as it’s Detroit Diesel Alpine Green so a little darker that it looks. But I wanted something different, my truck is green. And I felt an industrial type color was fitting for an 80. If you check post #49477 on the previous page there is a better picture to see the color in some warmer light.
 
I am playing with the idea of fitting these to the bonnet. hoping to stop a lot of that heat sinking into the body of the car after a 4-5hour drive. has anyone bought the track spec kit for their cruiser? I cannot find a pic of this kit actually fitted into an fj80 bonnet

I figured I would either just slap it on the bonnet, or, cut the holes and glue it to the underside so it pokes out and paint the whole lot white. no rivets, no colour difference. the support structure of the bonnet is only glued in place anyway.

thoughts?
images

If you are trying to stop heat sink from permeating into your cab, don't you think it would be easier, cheaper, and more effective to install some kind of heat and sound insulation (Dynamat) under the carpet? I imagine it would be much easier to install insulation than it would be to remove, cut, weld, and paint a hood.
 
The truck meters out at @4.5 on paint and 3.5 in the door jams. So not much clear coat.

Hey bub m - nice progress on your paint correction. I need to do the same! Question - I thought that the white and black colors were single stage and the others were base / clear. Do you know for sure you have clear and, if so, was it a repaint?
 
IMG_20191204_160220.jpg
IMG_20191204_193517.jpg
MVIMG_20191204_194136.jpg
scuffed my front bumper end cap backing out of a parking spot on a light pole, picked up our Christmas tree and set it up. 10ft tree fits like a glove. My daughter is thrilled!
 
Few days ago I wire wheeled and rust converted the undercarriage. Ran out of daylight and warmth to apply the chassis paint
IMG_20191130_153419.jpg
IMG_20191130_162807.jpg
 
Hey bub m - nice progress on your paint correction. I need to do the same! Question - I thought that the white and black colors were single stage and the others were base / clear. Do you know for sure you have clear and, if so, was it a repaint?


The car has all original paint. Not one panel was ever painted.

I metered the car and the inner door panels read 1mil less than the average 4.5 . Leads me to believe there is a clear.

364067AE-E599-4DFD-B71A-E861E0C5CDA5.jpeg
F55DCCA6-AFEB-4977-A7E8-CD9332190C17.jpeg
 
I had the same situation and had it sand blasted and coated with Lanolin covered Fluid film in black.

Looks awesome
Once I paint it, it's getting sprayed with the Lanolin film. Trying to make it as solid as possible before i spray the lanolin. Don't want to have to remove that to paint!
 
Changed oil @ 262,300. Went back to the Ford FL1A filter as it’s bigger and I have a socket for easy removal.
9898A3FD-3B7D-4A87-936B-B55C5E94DD12.jpeg
 
A few days ago I got the first set of Stage 5 slinky dual bypass shocks in the states from @AutoCraft Aus installed...they sure look pretty!

So far I have only done some on-road testing, but hitting the roundabout at 40mph and going over the roundabout rather than around it felt pretty good.
D3A1AF7C-EA53-42D7-B55D-77CE9AA56FD8.jpeg

968D70AA-81FB-4346-BF6F-7E5015FDABC7.jpeg

84F0AED1-165E-4F20-968A-FABE711C17A6.jpeg

48E0AC62-FBB0-4D84-B115-508E07AF930B.jpeg
 
Spent an hour this morning replacing my rear sway bar with a HD white line bar from John @2KCruiser and a pair of Phil’s @LandCruiserPhil rear sway bar links. These links replace the factory straps and incorporate a heim joint on the chassis end to eliminate/reduce binding and subsequent bushing deterioration that is common when running HD sway bars. I also like that they are adjustable without having to remove from the truck.


1EEBAB2F-6B6D-420E-9901-1F77F0554D77.jpeg
3EC236C7-3160-4F4C-90D2-F67EBEDCB0E1.jpeg
4C030A12-20CF-425A-96E8-5B920A68FFB5.jpeg
60CA7BB2-F219-402D-B9CC-3068B2361576.jpeg
5F1B213D-0C12-4DCB-A154-6E925AB00157.jpeg
 
Rebuilding my Toyota starter.......

IMG_20191207_161100022.jpg
 
If you are trying to stop heat sink from permeating into your cab, don't you think it would be easier, cheaper, and more effective to install some kind of heat and sound insulation (Dynamat) under the carpet? I imagine it would be much easier to install insulation than it would be to remove, cut, weld, and paint a hood.

no I don't rekon that would be better, I think of heat and sound insulation under the carpet as masking the symptoms of heat soak. If the hot air was vented out of the engine bay after it passed through the radiator then I rekon it treats the cause of those symptoms. The bonnet louvres should work pretty well, the front of the bonnet is a low pressure area (spray your bonnet with a hose and go for a drive, the water should just sit there without being blown off) so the air flowing over the front of the car should draw the hot air out. Theres just the issue with exposure of bits in the engine bay that aren't designed to be. also cutting a huge hole in the bonnet.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom