What Did You Do with Your 80 This Weekend? (60 Viewers)

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How much clearance do you have on those front speakers to the dash? Or the window run behind? Specs on speakers? Not sure if they'd fit my 97... looking for alternatives to my cheap Pioneers.

They are kicker css67's they fit between the door and dash just right. It was close with the magnet on the window run. They have a mounting depth of 1 13/16". They didn't touch the window run when I held them in there but they were mighty close.... they seem to be fine though.
 
Fixing the little things.... Thanks @beno.

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I give the guy credit for the resourcefullness of this fix (wasn't me). Feels right going back to the original clip though.

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New hood struts. Hopefully won't need the wooden stick anymore for another 22 years.

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How much clearance do you have on those front speakers to the dash? Or the window run behind? Specs on speakers? Not sure if they'd fit my 97... looking for alternatives to my cheap Pioneers.
I bought the three way pioneers for the front and back and they fit in the factory area. Had to do some minor grill mods but they sound way better now.
 
Replaced axle nuts with TG chromoly lock nuts.

Replaced tie rod and drag link, using Marlin Crawler's Marlink kit.

No more death wobble!

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And, just ordered a Tough Dog RTC Steering Stabilizer from Trail-Tailor.




Got Marlin?

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Next up...

Knuckle rebuild, lifter adjustment, and fix the new oil leak.
 
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Replaced axle nuts with TG chromoly lock nuts.

Replaced the rod and drag link, using Marlin Crawler's Marlink kit.

No more death wobble!

And, just ordered a Tough Dog RTC Steering Stabilizer from Trail-Tailor.

Got Marlin?

Next up...

Knuckle rebuild, lifter adjustment, and fix the new oil leak.

So you're the one who stole my marlin crawler steering links :flipoff2:. I've been waiting for mine for 3 weeks and they ran out of material to make them last week. you got lucky I guess. Looking good though!
 
So you're the one who stole my marlin crawler steering links :flipoff2:. I've been waiting for mine for 3 weeks and they ran out of material to make them last week. you got lucky I guess. Looking good though!

That's funny. I got them about 3 weeks ago. Went in, out of stock 'but we'll have them ready later today', so I paid and checked back. Not done that day, after all. Picked them up that Friday.

It's nice having Marlin local to me.

Worth the wait, though. 😎
 
That's funny. I got them about 3 weeks ago. Went in, out of stock 'but we'll have them ready later today', so I paid and checked back. Not done that day, after all. Picked them up that Friday.

It's nice having Marlin local to me.

Worth the wait, though. 😎
yeah that is pretty nice having them in your backyard. I've got ACC over here so Im happy about that, i can wait on anything else. But yeah they are the best steering links out there hands down.

Did you set the tie rod to stock length or did you mess with the toe like in the FSM?
 
Wanted to upgrade to disc brakes on my 91 FJ80. So I bought a 1997 LX450 rear axle on e-bay. $500 shipped to AZ as a bonus it has a factory e locker and of course its full float. The axle was located in Massachusetts so I knew I was taking a chance as far as rust was concerned. I guess I'm spoiled living in Arizona because it arrived this past weekend and whoa! The rust is so bad the axle housing is flaking chunks. I planned on buying new rotors, calipers, pads and clips. So the rust on those is a non issue. I also plan to delete the ABS components as they are not needed on my 91. I just don't trust the housing and brackets. Anyone have or know where I can purchase a stripped axle housing? Also, can I use my current 91 housing? I would rather keep it whole but it could be option if I cant find a donor housing. Any ideas or thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks!View attachment 1932881View attachment 1932882View attachment 1932883View attachment 1932884View attachment 1932885
Mine looked worse than yours. After blasting the lost of material was minimal.
 
yeah that is pretty nice having them in your backyard. I've got ACC over here so Im happy about that, i can wait on anything else. But yeah they are the best steering links out there hands down.

Did you set the tie rod to stock length or did you mess with the toe like in the FSM?

I run extra toe. Doing some more work, so I just set it where it was. I'll put it on a rack, after everything else is done.
 
Replaced axle nuts with TG chromoly lock nuts.

Replaced the rod and drag link, using Marlin Crawler's Marlink kit.

No more death wobble!

View attachment 1940390

View attachment 1940391

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And, just ordered a Tough Dog RTC Steering Stabilizer from Trail-Tailor.




Got Marlin?

View attachment 1940435

Next up...

Knuckle rebuild, lifter adjustment, and fix the new oil leak.
did you already order RTC? because I have one here Im not using or I may use again
 
York under the hood? 👍

I have to plumb it up still. The pieces are all mostly here but just haven't gotten there yet. I will one of these days but a 4 and 2 year old occupy a lot of my free time.
 
I pulled my starter and found this mess behind it. The wires run to the park/neutral switch and one isn’t connected to anything on the engine side. Anyone know if there was a plug there originally? I’m gonna try to pull it out tomorrow and repair it.

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Yep. Ordered it already.
Im thinking the RTC worked much better than the king stabilizer just wished I had it repowder coated before installing coil onto shock. the yellow came off too easy in northeast.
 
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I pulled my starter and found this mess behind it. The wires run to the park/neutral switch and one isn’t connected to anything on the engine side. Anyone know if there was a plug there originally? I’m gonna try to pull it out tomorrow and repair it.

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That's a field repair. The NSS connectors have been chopped off both harnesses for some reason. The switch-side connector should have looked like this:
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The "correct" repair would be to replace the neutral safety switch and the engine wiring harness. The switch-side connector is not available, you will have to buy a switch to get it. the engine harness-side connector might be available. You would have to get the 5 digit number off of one to see if it is serviced. Individual repair splices would have to be obtained for the engine harness-side connector.

A new switch is around 200 bucks.
 

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