Tommysosa
SILVER Star
I did a coolant flush and belt replacement. Slowly knocking out things as I get ready to go down the turbo rabbit hole.
What Did You Do with Your 80 This Weekend? (101 Viewers)
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Trying to pull my upper oil pan and I can't get a damn electrical connector to separate. It's caked in thick sludge and I can't get it clean enough to see how it's supposed to separate. I have really terrible luck getting these damn things to disconnect. Got so frustrated I had to call it quits. It's the one right by the drivers side motor mount if anybody has any suggestions.
Swbkrn2003
GOLD Star
Yes I know that but i thought the Birf would be threaded Metric? Or am I incorrect. Better if it's NPT.
I tracked down the DOME fuse circuit, which is responsible for all the parasitic draw on the start battery. Intercepted it at the EA1 harness and wired it to my second aux battery, which has a constant solar charge going to it. This allows my start battery to stay fully charged, and also moves all my “parked” power like dome lights and radio (in addition to all the other auxiliary circuits) onto the aux battery when camping etc.
got the 80 out of the garage and logged onto the forum for the first time in 3 years. Time to get back on the trails!
Yes they are air chuck fittings. As far as working out, so far they have been awesome although I was a little concerned that they might wear out or fall off. Also I didn't like the way the small amount of play in the fittings allowed the flaps to move up and down a bunch but I was able to address these two potential issues with my design. I welded a male fitting to a piece of plate that simply bolts to the bumper via one of the existing bolts on the 4x4 labs bumper. On the actual steel part of the mudflap I welded another mail fitting with the threads sticking out just far enough to screw the quick release onto. The bolt on the bumper aligned perfectly with one of the cool guy go fast holes on the bottom of the bumper so I was able to glue a small piece of the rubber mudflap leftover from trimming to the top of the steel part of the mudflap. I simply used a nice large zip tie to secure the mudflap to the bumper for extra security just in case the quick release somehow failed. Securing the top of the mudflap against the bumper along with the little piece of rubber that I added also took the wiggle and any rattles out of the picture. I went budget and used harbor freight fittings so if the quick disconnect part ever fails it will be a simple cheap replacement. For the rubber I went to the local Six States and bought a set of small mudflaps that required some very light trimming to get the exact size that I wanted for my rig. Here are some more pictures to help explain.
I believe the birf is actually BSPT which is British straight pipe thread. A standard NPT fitting doesn't fit quite right.
Check with Wit's End @NLXTACY as he has made a fitting to fir as well.
Thanks for that, well done. I might be stealing your idea, or some variation of it. No royalties though 'cause I'm a piece of s***.
cc93cruiser
CRUZAHEAD
Wrapped up the aux fuse block install on my daily 80 with some 6awg wire plus a Littelfuse 100 amp fuse to protect from a power surge... looks decent....small project, but satisfying and functional..
Busy past week but glad to be done. Did a complete rebuild of cooling system. Was in really bad shape. Bypassed rear heater. Bypassed PHH. Not sure how old the CSF radiator is but the core was rotting. Fixed all the oil leaks on the front of the motor. Motor mounts gave out and went through three class 8 bolts to get the crank bolt off. Used an OTC pulley holder and 40" 3/4 breaker bar. Someone put thread locker on the crank bolt in the past. I'm glad I bought a new balancer because I discovered the rubber ring was delaminating and making contact with the motor. Vibrations gone now too so that's a crisis averted. Someone also torqued the lower oil pump cover screws down hard and I broke a #3 bit. Had to drill that screw out.
Here's some photos of the worst stuff I pulled out.
You can see the rot in the lower left and upper right.
Luckily I could only find build up around the radiator hose connections on the lower side.
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Balancer.
Where the balancer was making contact with the motor. You can see the polished arc across the oil pump cover and timing cover.
Glad the mounts gave up in the driveway and not a trail. Needed replacing anyway. I'm never doing it without a engine hoist again though.
Here's some photos of the worst stuff I pulled out.
You can see the rot in the lower left and upper right.
Luckily I could only find build up around the radiator hose connections on the lower side.
Balancer.
Where the balancer was making contact with the motor. You can see the polished arc across the oil pump cover and timing cover.
Glad the mounts gave up in the driveway and not a trail. Needed replacing anyway. I'm never doing it without a engine hoist again though.
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That is quite alright if you borrow my idea, this forum is the best and I am happy to contribute anyway I can.
NLXTACY
Wits' End
at 1/8 NPT and BSPT are close enough to be interchangeable (27 vs 28 threads per inch). Goes to s*** after that. And yes, Toyota uses BSPT for sure.
Finally got old Elsie a 3 inch OME heavy lift along with some 33 inch KM3s and caster correction plates from Metal Tech 4x4 and replaced the worn radius arm bushings with OEM.
I indexed a 3/8-18NPT Tap with the original BSPT plug that came out of the steering knuckle and the first four threads (all that was engaged with the original plug/knuckle) line up almost perfectly. Using brass as I did (being a soft metal) will in no way damage the knuckle and in fact create a tighter seal.
It did get tighter faster but I was able to still engage the same four threads of depth without binding. (YMMV as not all pipe fittings are created equal)
This is a non-issue in this application as all the plug does is seal the knuckle inspection hole.. it is not a load bearing part, all it has to do is stay tight and not fall out under vibration.
But... if you want to be a purist with no real world trail experience.. dig on!
Here is the correct fitting to build this Zerk plug if you are so inclined.
3/8-19 BSPT Plug Steel Hydraulic Adapter
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I know this because I lost my original plug for a while when I did my front axle rebuild. So I grabbed a 3/8 NPT plug and screwed it in. It was a steel plug and I had to run it for about two weeks until I found the original one in a box in the garage.I indexed a 3/8-18NPT Tap with the original BSPT plug that came out of the steering knuckle and the first four threads (all that was engaged with the original plug/knuckle) line up almost perfectly. Using brass as I did (being a soft metal) will in no way damage the knuckle and in fact create a tighter seal.
It did get tighter faster but I was able to still engage the same four threads of depth without binding. (YMMV as not all pipe fittings are created equal)
This is a non-issue in this application as all the plug does is seal the knuckle inspection hole.. it is not a load bearing part, all it has to do is stay tight and not fall out under vibration.
But... if you want to be a purist with no real world trail experience.. dig on!
Here is the correct fitting to build this Zerk plug if you are so inclined.
3/8-19 BSPT Plug Steel Hydraulic Adapter
Using a steel plug (brass will deform accordingly), it did not deform the threads and would tend to weep water in through the mismatched threads. Not much, but over the long term it can.
If you can find one that fits, it's best. In a pinch, do what you need.
This is basically my life right now too
Anyone have the template for the Amazon snorkel? I want to put my old one on the new cruiser and dont have the template
