What Did You Do with Your 80 This Weekend? (91 Viewers)

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just trying to see if anyone has a system similar to this setup?View attachment 1308399 View attachment 1308400

I would be interested to hear what the suspension gurus think?. @jcardona1, @AMMO

I've never seen a cantilever setup on an 80. Could be done if you have enough money/time/skill to DIY or lots of money to just have a shop do it.

As for the front, I don't see a coilover/bypass shock setup working on an 80 because of the driver's side. Our steering boxes mount outside the frame and gets in the way of everything. On Heep the steering box is inside the frame. Only option is to move the steering box forward several inches. The way I have my coilovers mounted is really the only option and that option doesn't leave room for a bypass shock. If you were to go back towards the firewall any further the tire will contact the spring at full turn/full stuff.

17122420992_8ea6d25553_h.jpg
 
I've never seen a cantilever setup on an 80. Could be done if you have enough money/time/skill to DIY or lots of money to just have a shop do it.

As for the front, I don't see a coilover/bypass shock setup working on an 80 because of the driver's side. Our steering boxes mount outside the frame and gets in the way of everything. On Heep the steering box is inside the frame. Only option is to move the steering box forward several inches. The way I have my coilovers mounted is really the only option and that option doesn't leave room for a bypass shock. If you were to go back towards the firewall any further the tire will contact the spring at full turn/full stuff.

17122420992_8ea6d25553_h.jpg

jose you are not giving me hope! lol......Im gonna try anyways and see if i can shoe horn the coilover and bypass...who would i talk to about the cantilever ......
 
jose you are not giving me hope! lol......Im gonna try anyways and see if i can shoe horn the coilover and bypass...who would i talk to about the cantilever ......

I'd start with member PKP80 (Pit26 Motorsports). They're down in Socal. They did a really slick double triangulated rear setup & coilovers on his 80. The other option was Brian at 4WheelUnderground. He was in Socal too but recently relocated up to Washington.
 
View attachment 1308491 Just picked this up from a local shop, 1310 cv rear shaft. Was getting funky noises and vibes so hopefully this takes care of it.

Yeah yeah blondie... Trying fix the vibes

But inquiring minds want to know whats in the box?!? :D
 
just trying to see if anyone has a system similar to this setup?View attachment 1308399 View attachment 1308400

I would be interested to hear what the suspension gurus think?. @jcardona1, @AMMO

As Jose mentiones below the cantilever stuff is interesting.... Jessie James ran it on his Trophy Truck a ways back... It's good in theory but you have to ask why don't more guys go that direction???? Also I have to ask what is the direction of your build to consider either of these designs?

I've never seen a cantilever setup on an 80. Could be done if you have enough money/time/skill to DIY or lots of money to just have a shop do it.

As for the front, I don't see a coilover/bypass shock setup working on an 80 because of the driver's side. Our steering boxes mount outside the frame and gets in the way of everything. On Heep the steering box is inside the frame. Only option is to move the steering box forward several inches. The way I have my coilovers mounted is really the only option and that option doesn't leave room for a bypass shock. If you were to go back towards the firewall any further the tire will contact the spring at full turn/full stuff.

17122420992_8ea6d25553_h.jpg

As shown above space is limited, and again curious beside the "bling flat bill" SoCal street cred what are your intended reasons for bypass? Reason I ask is bypass is designed to reduce dampener heat, hence all the side tubes for the oil to cool.... Most of us use our 80's in the "slow and go". Solid axels don't lend themselves to a good dezert rig unless your building a rock racer, and the 80 platform is a long cry from that... So no need for bypass IMOP.

I'd start with member PKP80 (Pit26 Motorsports). They're down in Socal. They did a really slick double triangulated rear setup & coilovers on his 80. The other option was Brian at 4WheelUnderground. He was in Socal too but recently relocated up to Washington.

Hit SAMMY (PKP80) up, he will have some info for ya. I'd think a newer LX or GX or 5th gen Runner would be a better platform for these mods, at least you get the V8 and IFS where you could take advantage of these mods.

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is that a procar elite? I'm collecting reviews, please and thank you :eek:

It is. They look totally bitchin' just sitting in the 80 ;)

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Ill have to get some seat time for a true review. Making brackets tonight i hope. However i just laid down 7k miles in 3 weeks in stock seats without any real complaints even with somewhat back issues. So far i like the tall position and loss of weight for sure. Seems a adapter bracket (wedge,scat, planted,etc) might make it too high ?? Unless you ditched feet and mounted raild directly. The seat feet are tall as well. Im 5'11" and they center me on the wheel well with good view of road and dash. If you were willing to canabalize/had donor set of feet i think install could be smoother looking and easier/stronger.
 
As Jose mentiones below the cantilever stuff is interesting.... Jessie James ran it on his Trophy Truck a ways back... It's good in theory but you have to ask why don't more guys go that direction???? Also I have to ask what is the direction of your build to consider either of these designs?

I want the ability to do both rock and speed....I know people tell me our trucks are slow as Fxxx! but I can still manage to do 80-90 mph runs in death valley. Im planning a trip to africa to paris in the near future and would like a suspension that i can count on!

[/QUOTE]As shown above space is limited, and again curious beside the "bling flat bill" SoCal street cred what are your intended reasons for bypass? Reason I ask is bypass is designed to reduce dampener heat, hence all the side tubes for the oil to cool.... Most of us use our 80's in the "slow and go". Solid axels don't lend themselves to a good dezert rig unless your building a rock racer, and the 80 platform is a long cry from that... So no need for bypass IMOP.[/QUOTE]

During my experience with the KING 2.5 shocks with res, I still managed to get fade after miles and miles of whoops and wash board roads...the solution was to get racing finned reservoirs and it seems to help a little. When I get my new 80, I would like to incorporate what i learned from my 96 and make it light and fast with the suspension to handle it!



[/QUOTE]Hit SAMMY (PKP80) up, he will have some info for ya. I'd think a newer LX or GX or 5th gen Runner would be a better platform for these mods, at least you get the V8 and IFS where you could take advantage of these mods.

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View attachment 1308504[/QUOTE]

I can't afford a new 4 runner or a lexus! I can barely afford 4 80s!...haha

thanks so much for the info @AMMO
 
Bypass shocks are not for cooling, but multi stage valving. Basically three or four compression and rebound rates at different stages in compression. If you look at the bypass tubes they all come in at different levels controlling dampening rates differently at each level. Also cantilever is the way formula one cars run. I think it just a much more extensive and expensive setup. More parts make for more complexity.
 
I've never seen a cantilever setup on an 80. Could be done if you have enough money/time/skill to DIY or lots of money to just have a shop do it.

As for the front, I don't see a coilover/bypass shock setup working on an 80 because of the driver's side. Our steering boxes mount outside the frame and gets in the way of everything. On Heep the steering box is inside the frame. Only option is to move the steering box forward several inches. The way I have my coilovers mounted is really the only option and that option doesn't leave room for a bypass shock. If you were to go back towards the firewall any further the tire will contact the spring at full turn/full stuff.

17122420992_8ea6d25553_h.jpg

Why couldn't you mount the reservoir in the engine compartment? This is a serious question. I don't know about these things. Is there a limit to the length of the hose between the shock and reservoir?
 
Why couldn't you mount the reservoir in the engine compartment? This is a serious question. I don't know about these things. Is there a limit to the length of the hose between the shock and reservoir?

Yes there is a certain length that must be maintained. If the hose is too long the fluid in the shock will not make it to the reservoir to get the most cooling effect
 
Why couldn't you mount the reservoir in the engine compartment? This is a serious question. I don't know about these things. Is there a limit to the length of the hose between the shock and reservoir?

No it's not the reservoir. jtwopark was asking about running a coilover AND a bypass shock. Basically two shock systems side-by-side. Lots of guys have run a single remote-res coilover, no problems there.

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Yeah yeah blondie... Trying fix the vibes

But inquiring minds want to know whats in the box?!? :D

Hahaha naw, that box isn't for me. Those are rear OME coils for my brothers grand cherokee.. It was a convenient spot though.

I just got the shaft in, won't be able to drive it for another day cause I'm waiting on some headlight stuff.
 
New brake pads.

100 series brake pads courtesy of @beno at Land Cruiser Parts & Consulting.

Onur, thanks for phone call and insight on the pads and for bringing down my stress level.

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I've never seen a cantilever setup on an 80. Could be done if you have enough money/time/skill to DIY or lots of money to just have a shop do it.

As for the front, I don't see a coilover/bypass shock setup working on an 80 because of the driver's side. Our steering boxes mount outside the frame and gets in the way of everything. On Heep the steering box is inside the frame. Only option is to move the steering box forward several inches. The way I have my coilovers mounted is really the only option and that option doesn't leave room for a bypass shock. If you were to go back towards the firewall any further the tire will contact the spring at full turn/full stuff.

17122420992_8ea6d25553_h.jpg

how about if i lean the shock body towards the front where you have your bump stop? instead of having the shock lean back like on your truck?
 
Bypass shocks are not for cooling, but multi stage valving. Basically three or four compression and rebound rates at different stages in compression. If you look at the bypass tubes they all come in at different levels controlling dampening rates differently at each level. Also cantilever is the way formula one cars run. I think it just a much more extensive and expensive setup. More parts make for more complexity.

Your on the right track but I don't think totally.... I don't disagree with what your saying about bypass, I was just trying to keep it "bypass 101"

In regards to cantilever.... Not necessarily anymore parts as it can be as simple as a reverse 4 link... It's how the suspension moves in and rebounds.

how about if i lean the shock body towards the front where you have your bump stop? instead of having the shock lean back like on your truck?

Ummmm No. Again see post above about cantilever suspension. Lots of suspension calulators out there to determine on paper what works.... Kinda wish "Booger" was still here... You would get massive binding leaning shocks forward on a suspension that rolls out, up and back from the swing point.... Think about how that shock would cycle through that motion, as it goes up it would compress and then past the break angle it would stretch out while still traveling up. And prob potentially stay in that position... Fully compressed and up.

-A
 
Nice! That rear kit is tempting, but I'm not sure if coilovers out back are in my future. How much adjustability do those brackets give? Enough for 5-6" lifts?

The bump stops were designed around a 4" lift but there is still 2" of adjustment with 2" of stroke and 1" of internal dampening.
 

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