What did you do with your 60 this weekend? (11 Viewers)

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@MarkBC

Hey man, if you want... you can just get a brand new frame still from toyota.... for the low low price of $6,800! hahaha
A couple years ago Toyota Parts Deal listed 60 frames as in stock so contacted them. Never got a reply but the page for the frames got updated to “discontinued” pretty quickly lol. And yeah, I tend to poke around with oddball part numbers…
 
Did some wheelin and remembered why open diffs suck. My 60 is the first unlocked truck I’ve ever owned. For now.

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Bonus stupid edit

 
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A couple years ago Toyota Parts Deal listed 60 frames as in stock so contacted them. Never got a reply but the page for the frames got updated to “discontinued” pretty quickly lol. And yeah, I tend to poke around with oddball part numbers…
I looked on a few different toytoa parts warehouses and they all list it as available. Toyotas parts site has it available as well. TPD doesnt like to ship large stuff and will jsut mark stuff unavailable if they will lose money shipping it. They did that to me for the hood insulator
 
I looked on a few different toytoa parts warehouses and they all list it as available. Toyotas parts site has it available as well. TPD doesnt like to ship large stuff and will jsut mark stuff unavailable if they will lose money shipping it. They did that to me for the hood insulator
That’s why I stopped using them. So you can actually get a whole a$$ frame from Toyota? I gotta ask my dealer guy about that.
 
I've had some weird sniper issues with cold start idle quality and random lean spikes along with some minor issues holding commanded AFR's. My vacuum gauge shows about 17hg at just over sea level which isn't super great IMO, but it would generally drive well and was still a huge improvement over the carb. I made a little smoke machine with some vacuum tube and smoked the intake, and found a leak at the EGR block off plate. I sealed it up and got 1.5hg more of vacuum immediately and it seems to run a whole lot better. It seems to idle/return to idle much better than it ever has, so I'm happy about that.
 
Are you still swapping 80 axles or did you change plans?

Decided to keep it all and do the swap. I can get a drift car later haha. The only parts i need now are axle rebuld parts and lockers pretty much, and some shocks.

Huge fan of this rig. Low roof, full float, all the 61 goodies.

Thats the plan on mine. sliding windows, sahara fenders, nicer seats, Full float. Basically build the USDM Sahara trim that we never got here.
 
Thats the plan on mine. sliding windows, sahara fenders, nicer seats, Full float. Basically build the USDM Sahara trim that we never got here.

And here I’m trying to build the option-up US market 60 we never got. The only option was paint color. Mine is a “what if Toyota offered a higher trim level?” thing. Or that’s the goal anyway.
 
Huge fan of this rig. Low roof, full float, all the 61 goodies.
Thanks!!
She is a great rig and now that we moved has a permeant spot inside a nice dry garage. No more weekend-only projects under a canopy hoping the rain holds off.
 
I asked this in the 80 series forum but I'll ask here too. I'm rebuilding my 80 front axle to put under my 60. The wheel hubs are rusty where the dust seal rides. See video below at 47:01 where he says to add grease there. But I can't find any bare hubs for sale, they only sell the whole assembly with bearings. I already have bearings.

Do I really need a new hub if that surface where the seal rides is rusty? It's $1000 Canadian for a new set. I could dissolve the rust away in Evapo-rust and then use Marine JBWeld to smooth it over. That's what I'm doing on the pitting on the knuckle ball. Then get the shop to turn that JBWelded surface on the lathe like the rotors for $20 each, to make it nice for the seal to spin on. I wonder how long it would last. That's kind of bo-jang but it saves a ton of $$$.

 
I asked this in the 80 series forum but I'll ask here too. I'm rebuilding my 80 front axle to put under my 60. The wheel hubs are rusty where the dust seal rides. See video below at 47:01 where he says to add grease there. But I can't find any bare hubs for sale, they only sell the whole assembly with bearings. I already have bearings.

Do I really need a new hub if that surface where the seal rides is rusty? It's $1000 Canadian for a new set. I could dissolve the rust away in Evapo-rust and then use Marine JBWeld to smooth it over. That's what I'm doing on the pitting on the knuckle ball. Then get the shop to turn that JBWelded surface on the lathe like the rotors for $20 each, to make it nice for the seal to spin on. I wonder how long it would last. That's kind of bo-jang but it saves a ton of $$$.


hey mark, just a thought, an old gearhead friend of mine made use of , if i recall the name correctly, speedi sleeves on seal surfaces quite frequently. i don't know what all sizes are available but that may be an option. i'm thinking your jbweld solution is viable though.
 

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