What did you do with your 60 this weekend? (28 Viewers)

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The previous owner installed one of these below on mine....and it works. it will not start when the key style to the system is out.

VEHICLE STARTER INTERRUPT DISABLE SYSTEM REMOVEABLE KEY STYLE​



  1. VEHICLE STARTER INTERRUPT DISABLE SYSTEM REMOVEABLE KEY STYLE
 
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I recently installed a hidden kill switch in my FJ62. What I did was use a magnetic reed switch as my kill switch. That reed switch modulates a relay in the cruiser that cuts power to a circuit. The beauty of using a magnetic control switch is you can hide them behind any panel you want in the cruiser and the magnet can be almost any size,shape and color these days. So good luck to any thief finding the switch. Completely out of sight and out of mind.
 
red66toy said:
I recently installed a hidden kill switch in my FJ62. What I did was use a magnetic reed switch as my kill switch. That reed switch modulates a relay in the cruiser that cuts power to a circuit. The beauty of using a magnetic control switch is you can hide them behind any panel you want in the cruiser and the magnet can be almost any size,shape and color these days. So good luck to any thief finding the switch. Completely out of sight and out of mind.
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I saw magnetic "switches" for a gun safe, and gave me a similar idea for a kill switch. Do you have a write-up, and any pics of this? Sounds great.
 
EasternYeti said:
Did you do a full write up anywhere for this? I’d definitely be interested in doing the same thing with a parts list
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I have not done a write up on this but as it seems that there is some interest I will probably go ahead and do that. And I'm thinking the General Tech forum would probably be the right place.
 
FishNinJay said:
I saw magnetic "switches" for a gun safe, and gave me a similar idea for a kill switch. Do you have a write-up, and any pics of this? Sounds great.
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No write up, or pics ;) . But I can post a general wiring schematic that can be adapted to any circuit the end user desires. Its actually all very basic, sounds fancier than it is which is the best part. Easy to install and crazy hard to find and defeat.... unless of course the thief has a lot of time to trouble shoot or a flat bed tow vehicle.

Edit: Here are the two main supplies: Reed switch: McMaster-Carr - https://www.mcmaster.com/65985K11/ . You can find other variations like normally closed switches, also probably cheaper versions. Panasonic sealed relay: CB1A-R-M-12V . I bought it from here with the matching female connector and terminals. Motorcycle Relays, Panasonic, Mitsuba - http://www.cycleterminal.com/accessory-relays.html
 
Not the weekend, but Friday night counts, right? I removed the thermostat housing to replace some gaskets, and was happy to see the condition inside the housing and block. Maybe this is typical, but I expected more gunk on a 34 year old 2H.

Also replaced the AC condenser, but the original style is NLA. I used the FJ version, but wanted to keep the original radiator shutter. So, I needed to remove the side brackets off the original unit, sandblast and paint. Finally have it back together. Still need to re-work one of the A/C lines though. The connections are different on the LH side.

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FirstFJ60 said:
I designed and built my console which I started building it last weekend and finished it today. I like it better than OEM and it has more storage than I can ever imagine (11" deep). I bespoked it to my needs at fraction of the cost. It has combination lock, Marine 3 port USB, Battery Voltage display, 12V charger, gas strut and cup holders. I will get a lot of use out of it.
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Superb!
 
georgebj60 said:
Not the weekend, but Friday night counts, right? I removed the thermostat housing to replace some gaskets, and was happy to see the condition inside the housing and block. Maybe this is typical, but I expected more gunk on a 34 year old 2H.

Also replaced the AC condenser, but the original style is NLA. I used the FJ version, but wanted to keep the original radiator shutter. So, I needed to remove the side brackets off the original unit, sandblast and paint. Finally have it back together. Still need to re-work one of the A/C lines though. The connections are different on the LH side.

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I was genuinely surprised and pleased to see that my engine was also in great condition internally. Someone maintained it well it seems!
 
Loving the heated 3 series BMW seats!
97DB7EA6-CA75-400A-917C-B343CE4AB50B.jpeg
 
red66toy said:
No write up, or pics ;) . But I can post a general wiring schematic that can be adapted to any circuit the end user desires. Its actually all very basic, sounds fancier than it is which is the best part. Easy to install and crazy hard to find and defeat.... unless of course the thief has a lot of time to trouble shoot or a flat bed tow vehicle.

Edit: Here are the two main supplies: Reed switch: McMaster-Carr - https://www.mcmaster.com/65985K11/ . You can find other variations like normally closed switches, also probably cheaper versions. Panasonic sealed relay: CB1A-R-M-12V . I bought it from here with the matching female connector and terminals. Motorcycle Relays, Panasonic, Mitsuba - http://www.cycleterminal.com/accessory-relays.html
Click to expand...
Nice! How have you made it so the Reed switch cannot accidentally open while driving? And what circuit does the switch kill, in your case?
 
Pulled my leaking steering box and took it to a rebuilder (ADCO Power Steering) in Houston. The have 1-2 day service. I spoke to West Texas Offroad, very nice guys but in the end I decided I did not want to fool with shipping it in a 5 gallon bucket (or driving it to them 7 hours away) and they said it would be at least 2 weeks once they got it.

ADCO has been around for a long time and they seem to know what they are doing. I will report back after I get it installed.
 
Over the last couple of weekends
replaced the lift arms on the rear lift gate
cut a couple of sheets of plywood to use as a sleeping platform
my led lights arrived to provide light in the rear when I'm sleeping in there (not yet installed) hope to work on that this week
 
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