What did you do with your 60 this weekend? (24 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Posted this in my project thread but I’ll double here too.

A02658E3-95E4-4D56-9820-908308284CE0.jpeg
806B13B1-88EA-42AA-BFFE-ADB546B9CD1B.jpeg
4452FBBE-A4BA-4095-AB5D-F40FD16B09A0.jpeg
 
So earlier this week, I needed to be jumped off after work...the truck worked fine Thursday and Friday. I went to start it tonight and it wouldn't turn over but the battery was only at 12.5...so that got me wondering. When I lifted the hood, I noticed I was missing a belt in two places. Both my original owners manual and the Haynes guide didn't point in any direction until I stumbled onto CoolCruisers.com. This truck takes 3 belts and since there isn't anything on my air pump, I'm guessing the one that's missing is the one that goes to my air pump, power steering and alternator. Thoughts?
missBelt1.jpg
missBelt2.jpg
missBelt3.jpg
missBelt4.jpg
 
Last edited:
So earlier this week, I needed to be jumped off after work...the truck worked fine Thursday and Friday. I went to start it tonight and it wouldn't turn over but the battery was only at 12.5...so that got me wondering. When I lifted the hood, I noticed I was missing a belt in two places. Both my original owners manual and the Haynes guide didn't point in any direction until I stumbled onto CoolCruisers.com. This truck takes 3 belts and since there isn't anything on my air pump, I'm guessing the one that's missing is the one that goes to my air pump, power steering and alternator. Thoughts?
View attachment 2252481View attachment 2252483View attachment 2252484l

Looks like the belt for your air pump is not installed. The other pulley below it is on your alternator but I see a belt there. You need to start the truck and measure the voltage at the battery. If that voltage is around 13-14volts while running then your alternator is charging and either it’s time for a new battery or if it’s a pretty new battery you might have some sort of drain going on.

this should be your stock belt routing Ibelieve.
FE7D1BA8-E899-4C4A-8171-3ABFE22D2261.png


you should be able to spin the air pump by hand. With the truck off I’d see if you can spin it.
 
Looks like the belt for your air pump is not installed. The other pulley below it is on your alternator but I see a belt there. You need to start the truck and measure the voltage at the battery. If that voltage is around 13-14volts while running then your alternator is charging and either it’s time for a new battery or if it’s a pretty new battery you might have some sort of drain going on.

this should be your stock belt routing Ibelieve.
View attachment 2252529

you should be able to spin the air pump by hand. With the truck off I’d see if you can spin it.
Brand new battery. There’s a kill switch under the dash that a previous owner installed because there’s a short somewhere in the vehicle. When the truck is running, the battery is around 12 to 13. I’m gonna take it to a mechanic. Should I buy the belts first and have them in hand or if it’s just the one belt I’m missing, do you think there could be something else causing the ultimate problem? Maybe the water pump is dragging and causing a belt to slow? Maybe the belt on the alternator, water pump and crank is loose?
 
Brand new battery. There’s a kill switch under the dash that a previous owner installed because there’s a short somewhere in the vehicle. When the truck is running, the battery is around 12 to 13. I’m gonna take it to a mechanic. Should I buy the belts first and have them in hand or if it’s just the one belt I’m missing, do you think there could be something else causing the ultimate problem? Maybe the water pump is dragging and causing a belt to slow? Maybe the belt on the alternator, water pump and crank is loose?

i recommend you start your own thread separate of this one and we can move all replies there. This thread isn’t so much a broad q&a and andrelevzz as not replies are likely to get lost in the other posts.
 
Put her to work getting new tires mounted for the new-to-me trailer.

20200328_103902.jpg
 
Was getting tired of the old OEM Toyota speakers, and since im currently trying to save my money i decided to use some old Boss 6.5 speakers i had laying around my house.


View attachment 2254467

20200330_170519.jpg

As you can see the speakers are way to big for the factory hole. So instead of cutting the hole bigger i decided to design a 3D printed spacer that would allow me to use the OEM screws as well.

20200330_170617.jpg


Hard to see, but i did make sure the window wasn't hitting the speaker, honestly a little ashamed how long it took me to think of that.

20200330_171056.jpg


This is the passenger side because i did the drivers side last night, couldn't wait to see if my design actually worked. Its a bit rough but whose going to see it anyway?

20200330_171745.jpg


As you can see it works perfectly, i forgot to take a picture but the door card fits on perfectly with only a slight bulge around the speaker. I plan on replacing the door cards out later so for now for now im happy to have better sound and to have spent practically no money.

20200330_170226.jpg
 
Helped my buddy with his 62, he's working on the rear as I work the front end now that I'm an expert, lol..
H55 is in, now for all the rest.
Shocks, steering stab, exhaust, all bearings and seal's, pinion seal and sleeve, caliper's ,brake's, etc.. I don't think there was a seal not leaking but the under side but it is in amazing condition from all the leaks.
Need more than a weekend on this one..

IMG_0342.JPG
IMG_0343.JPG
IMG_0355.JPG
IMG_0344.JPG
 
After getting everything off the front end, I'm finally able to start putting some of these parts on - timing cover seal, gasket, water pump, thermostat, hoses, idle pulleys, etc.

@NearJetties I think the two hose you are looking for are 87245-90k53 and 87245-90k36, in first picture below. Thanks for posting that modified tool, I may need to do that to get my crank nut back on.

IMG_0400.jpg


IMG_0405.jpg
 
Finally removed my 20 y/o Tangen lighting harness and adapted my factory headlight wiring to my JW Speaker headlights.

Went from this spiderweb,
LED Headlight Wiring 03 - Tangen Harness.jpg


To this little homemade adapter to trigger the high beam indicator
LED Headlight Wiring 04 - Right Side Low Installed.jpg
 
@Seth_O Same lug pattern on the trailer? I believe they originally had a 8 lug Ford pattern.

Not sure which trailer you're referring to: the M101 (behind the '60) is a 6 on 5.5 I believe - it's my brother's trailer I borrowed.

The gooseneck deck-over in the background (the one I was getting tires mounted for) is an 8-lug.

Either way, I love 'em both. But the gooseneck needs some work.....
 
@Seth_O . I was thinking of the M101. The convenience of not having to carry too many extra spares because the trailer lugs match the 60's. Little things like that make me smile. Great trailers, wish I had one
 
Brand new battery. There’s a kill switch under the dash that a previous owner installed because there’s a short somewhere in the vehicle. When the truck is running, the battery is around 12 to 13. I’m gonna take it to a mechanic. Should I buy the belts first and have them in hand or if it’s just the one belt I’m missing, do you think there could be something else causing the ultimate problem? Maybe the water pump is dragging and causing a belt to slow? Maybe the belt on the alternator, water pump and crank is loose?

Don't assume the parts guy/gal will give you the correct belt. I had to go back twice to O'Reillys
Here are the Gates V-belts that worked on my 62:

Power Steering - Gates TR22657
Water Pump - Gates TR22401
AC - Gates 9463
 
After getting everything off the front end, I'm finally able to start putting some of these parts on - timing cover seal, gasket, water pump, thermostat, hoses, idle pulleys, etc.

@NearJetties I think the two hose you are looking for are 87245-90k53 and 87245-90k36, in first picture below. Thanks for posting that modified tool, I may need to do that to get my crank nut back on.

View attachment 2255035

View attachment 2255036

thanks! Those look right. I eventually found the part numbers and they looked to be NLA— guess not or I had the wrong #s.

Got the last of the hoses today and got them on. The only non-OEM hoses I used— some Gates green stripe and some Us for the rear heater.

The beast lives and hasn’t thrown any parts off the front of the engine yet!

Runs right around 3/8ths now just like our 100 series. Before the truck never got much above the bottom of the gauge, never above 1/4, and the heat was always luke warm so knew the thermostat was stuck open or was missing/had a bad gasket.. Maybe I’ll pick up a whole mpg now that it gets in the right temp range!

now I just need to drain the distilled water I put in, add the red juice/distilled water mix, and dispose of all the old crap properly. It looked clean but I’m switching from green to the Toyota stuff.

Feeling good— this is my first time doing a water pump, thermostat, etc. and any kind of seal replacement/timing cover/getting that deep into disassembly/reassembly (I even had to buy a torque wrench 😂). My confidence was low after a recent botched master cylinder change even though it was due to the new part being bad— @OTRAMM came to the rescue though. I just hope I’m not celebrating prematurely.

6207A329-A569-44B0-8DAB-CEB3E59E2596.jpeg
AC610190-13CE-4B55-951E-F6B87D076CF5.jpeg
B09AAC86-FEEC-466F-9247-B92442A19077.jpeg
974A83B7-EB60-4CB0-B04D-EB70774176F0.jpeg
4A796E9C-292D-4751-ADEE-C4823F6990C4.jpeg
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom