What did you do with your 60 this weekend? (21 Viewers)

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Really liking the forest green, Jen. Looking forward to more pictures.

Great Color!
it is different.

Fantastic color choice my dream just about!


Thanks, I am really liking it from the photo, cant wait to see it in person later today. The color is Toyota Dark Green 6V7. I wanted something different, but keep it a Toyota color at the same time. I will post some more pics when I get it home.
 
Installed an accessory fuse box to help clean up some of the extra circuits I've added over time. Installed a 8 gauge wire direct from the alternator to the positive post of the battery. Made a noticeable difference in the volt meter reading. Put a 70 amp fuse inline to help protect against issues.

Everything is working nicely so far.
 
Installed an accessory fuse box to help clean up some of the extra circuits I've added over time. Installed a 8 gauge wire direct from the alternator to the positive post of the battery. Made a noticeable difference in the volt meter reading. Put a 70 amp fuse inline to help protect against issues.

Everything is working nicely so far.

John E-
I've been thinking about doing the direct wire from alt to battery for a long time. Not a lot of info out there that I have found on it...and I'm no wiring expert.

Would you mind sharing some good photos of your alt to batt. wiring, routing, fusing, etc of that mod?? PM me, or start a new thread, whatever... Thanks for any info. :beer:
 
Yeah I am about to do the same... I have the wires and fuse from when I bought my upgraded battery cable kit from Fourrunner (awesome kit by the way) and just never got around to it.
 
It's pretty easy. I bought 10 ft of 8 gauge stranded copper wire, at Home Depot, some crimp on ring connectors at Orchard Supply, and an ANL fuse holder and a 70 amp fuse on Amazon.

I replaced the small nut that holds the existing wires in place on the alternator with one that wasn't rusted...used a stainless nut and lock washer with some anti-seize to keep it nice.

You should always start running the wire from the alternator and don't install the fuse until everything is connected. You don't want to be trimming, stripping and crimping a live wire. I know that's obvious sounding but when I started the job I almost did it from the battery out to the alternator so maybe it's worth mentioning here.

I ran the wire from the alternator over to the drivers side fender, attached it with a couple of zip ties to the existing harness, then thru the front of the support near the LH headlight. Then I strung it under the front brace in front of the radiator. Attached the fuse holder to the same support next to the battery, leaving room to get to the terminals. I use a metric Nutsert to attach the holder. Then it's a short wire run to the positive side of the battery. Used weatherproof heatshrink on all the crimped connectors. I also used some heatshrink to the wire where it passes thru the brace to reinforce it against abrasion.

If I can remember how I'll post a couple of pics.

It's a pretty easy mod and the difference is obvious. My voltmeter moved from hovering around the 12v mark with the headlights on to about 14v. I also wire brushed the rust and corrosion off of the alternator terminal which probably helped as well. The only other thing is to remember to attach the shorter wire to the fuse holder before you attach it to the battery. You don't want a live wire moving around when you're attaching it.
 
It's pretty easy. I bought 10 ft of 8 gauge stranded copper wire, at Home Depot, some crimp on ring connectors at Orchard Supply, and an ANL fuse holder and a 70 amp fuse on Amazon.

I replaced the small nut that holds the existing wires in place on the alternator with one that wasn't rusted...used a stainless nut and lock washer with some anti-seize to keep it nice.

You should always start running the wire from the alternator and don't install the fuse until everything is connected. You don't want to be trimming, stripping and crimping a live wire. I know that's obvious sounding but when I started the job I almost did it from the battery out to the alternator so maybe it's worth mentioning here.

I ran the wire from the alternator over to the drivers side fender, attached it with a couple of zip ties to the existing harness, then thru the front of the support near the LH headlight. Then I strung it under the front brace in front of the radiator. Attached the fuse holder to the same support next to the battery, leaving room to get to the terminals. I use a metric Nutsert to attach the holder. Then it's a short wire run to the positive side of the battery. Used weatherproof heatshrink on all the crimped connectors. I also used some heatshrink to the wire where it passes thru the brace to reinforce it against abrasion.

If I can remember how I'll post a couple of pics.

It's a pretty easy mod and the difference is obvious. My voltmeter moved from hovering around the 12v mark with the headlights on to about 14v. I also wire brushed the rust and corrosion off of the alternator terminal which probably helped as well. The only other thing is to remember to attach the shorter wire to the fuse holder before you attach it to the battery. You don't want a live wire moving around when you're attaching it.
I have read a handful of threads on that mod... never knew about the order of hooking it up. I suppose I thought you would simply make the jumper with the fuse in line and attach it. I get it now tho on the fact it will be live. Could you simply not put the fuse in place until after its all hooked up?
 
It's pretty easy. I bought 10 ft of 8 gauge stranded copper wire, at Home Depot, some crimp on ring connectors at Orchard Supply, and an ANL fuse holder and a 70 amp fuse on Amazon.

I replaced the small nut that holds the existing wires in place on the alternator with one that wasn't rusted...used a stainless nut and lock washer with some anti-seize to keep it nice.

You should always start running the wire from the alternator and don't install the fuse until everything is connected. You don't want to be trimming, stripping and crimping a live wire. I know that's obvious sounding but when I started the job I almost did it from the battery out to the alternator so maybe it's worth mentioning here.

I ran the wire from the alternator over to the drivers side fender, attached it with a couple of zip ties to the existing harness, then thru the front of the support near the LH headlight. Then I strung it under the front brace in front of the radiator. Attached the fuse holder to the same support next to the battery, leaving room to get to the terminals. I use a metric Nutsert to attach the holder. Then it's a short wire run to the positive side of the battery. Used weatherproof heatshrink on all the crimped connectors. I also used some heatshrink to the wire where it passes thru the brace to reinforce it against abrasion.

If I can remember how I'll post a couple of pics.

It's a pretty easy mod and the difference is obvious. My voltmeter moved from hovering around the 12v mark with the headlights on to about 14v. I also wire brushed the rust and corrosion off of the alternator terminal which probably helped as well. The only other thing is to remember to attach the shorter wire to the fuse holder before you attach it to the battery. You don't want a live wire moving around when you're attaching it.

Nice info, thanks. Are you in a 60 or 62? Why an ANL style fuse?...just a good automotive fuse?
 
Nice info, thanks. Are you in a 60 or 62? Why an ANL style fuse?...just a good automotive fuse?

You need at least a 50 amp fuse and the standard ATC type only go to 30 amps as far As I know. And I need to correct myself. I used a Maxi fuse, not an ANL type. The Maxi is literally just a larger version of the normal bladed automotive fuse.

I'll try to post a link to the one I bought on Amazon.

51N6JVqRGXL._SL500_SS75_SS75_.jpg

Blue Sea Systems MAXI Fuse Block - 30 - 80A
by Blue Sea Systems
Link: Amazon.com: Blue Sea Systems MAXI Fuse Block - 30 - 80A: Sports & Outdoors


I also bought my 70 amp fuse at Amazon.

41sKa7fw8fL._SL500_SS75_SS75_.jpg

Blue Sea Systems MAXI Fuses

Link: Amazon.com : Blue Sea Systems 70A MAXI Fuse : Sports & Outdoors

Hope those worked...
 
If you worry about your curcuit being live here, just pop the neg terminal also. Problem solved.

Very true. I just like to be as safe as I can be. I'm usually at home alone when I'm working on my Cruiser or in my workshop so I tend to be a little overly cautious at times. I tried to cut my hand off with a circular saw one night and the actuality of what could have happened has stuck with me. I also work as an EMT and have seen what rushing to do what seems like a simple. Job can do.
 
Nice info, thanks. Are you in a 60 or 62? Why an ANL style fuse?...just a good automotive fuse?


I have a 1988 FJ62 and I need to correct myself. It's a Maxi Fuse, not an ANL. Not sure why I thought it was an ANL but it's not.
 
Very true. I just like to be as safe as I can be. I'm usually at home alone when I'm working on my Cruiser or in my workshop so I tend to be a little overly cautious at times. I tried to cut my hand off with a circular saw one night and the actuality of what could have happened has stuck with me. I also work as an EMT and have seen what rushing to do what seems like a simple. Job can do.

Absolutely safety first, no question. I just wanted to point out that there is no reason there need be power in these wires. Slipping a glove or the like over the neg wire after you disconnect it is even better insurance that there can be no accidental contact. Great writeup on a very useful mod!
 
Continuing Work In Progress.... While in drive and checking the response of ** I noticed the drainage spouting from the weep hole on my fuel pump. Luckily had a new one in the garage and replaced soft fuel lines and cleaned the insulator sheaths (?) in warm soapy water (things were stuck tight to old lines by dried dirt inside them). And just in driveway can feel the response change, will see how she runs on the way to work in a few. Also new water temp sender, gauge looks better but need to pull AC cooler out from under dash and see how gummed up it is (no AC hooked up anymore, all lines d/c'd too) as my heat is eh. ** And from a universal pkg at Napa added missing spring for throttle return on carb (the lower horizonal one)...
 
I'm just happy to see you sitting in another rig after that. Happy Trails with the new 80 Toy! J

Wish I could post in this thread behind the wheel of the old hoopty 60, but hey at least I can still post here! The 80 has been quite the overlanding rig lately and its growing on me haha thank you for the well wishes! Yall are probably gonna see 1 or 2 more posts of ole Bessie here when we chop her and then scrap her.
 

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