I took @HemiAlex 's advice.
Front 33-230368 360/80 valving for an arb bumper and winch up front.
Rear 33-185606 255/70 valving.
Bilstein vs OME shocks? Part numbers?
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What did you do with your 60 this weekend? (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter MrMoMo
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Front 33-230368 360/80 valving for an arb bumper and winch up front.
Rear 33-185606 255/70 valving.
forum.ih8mud.com
I took @HemiAlex 's advice.
Front 33-230368 360/80 valving for an arb bumper and winch up front.
Rear 33-185606 255/70 valving.
Bilstein vs OME shocks? Part numbers?
I have some weight out back. Dual swing out tire/jerry can carrier. Tool boxes and camp kitchen. should I just go with 33-230368 360/80 all around?
I took @HemiAlex 's advice.
Front 33-230368 360/80 valving for an arb bumper and winch up front.
Rear 33-185606 255/70 valving.
Bilstein vs OME shocks? Part numbers?
never mind, I know I need the different part number. I meant should I go with the 360/80 valving for front and rear.
Thanks man!
dude thats the one that got away haha. If you dont need the back seats the 85 xtra cab pickup is way better. The gas tank hangs super low on the 4runner, but otherwise theyre damn near identical. except the pickup can do truck stuff haha
Can you let us know how you calculated your fuse replacement sizing? Thanks
That is some mad weld skillz right there, been wanting to learn got some nice welder at work.The crossmember that came out of this thing (below) vs my new one I made.
Thanks man! its just seat time. I have a relatively cheap AC/DC welder with a good torch and cup. I use blue 2% lanthinated tungsten for basically everything. Seat time is everything. I basically dedicated 20-30 min a day for a few months last summer to learning and used youtube and got pretty decent. I can get them looking real good when i spend the time to prepeare the metal more. I didnt clean the mill scale much at all on these so thats why the welds look kind of dirty. For something thats getting painted its good enough though!
I will say, i learned aluminum first and glad that i did. Its much more difficult than steel so when i switched to mild steel and stainless it was a slight adjustment but i was already way ahead.
Shoot me a pm if you ever have any tig questions!
suzuguru
SILVER Star
I really enjoy TIG welding. Back about 20 years ago, I did it all day, every day at work. But I haven't done it since. I mostly MIG weld now.
I calculated it using fusible link conversion chart and a pair of dial calipers I stole from the university I graduated from.lol Also I consulted one of my best friends who is an EE.
Truthfully, I don't think that any thing other than the charging wire needs to be fused but that's just my opinion. I am not suggesting anyone alter their charging system without doing the research themselves. Also I assume no responsibility for anyone altering their electrical systems.
I went with an 80 amp midi for the alternator, 30 amp midi for the main harness circuit, and 20 amp blade fuses for the other wires that were going into the harness.
I think... Ill check next time I'm in the garage.
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Thanks for the reply, I’ve asked atleast 3 other users here and all go silent.
I installed new OEM front and rear bumpers/end caps/hardware and got my crusty draw-tite tow hitch media blasted and powder coated including the inside of the hollow cross tube.
Apologies, stretching the "this weekend" to be "last couple weekends".
Installed rear hood bumpers that I didn't even know I was missing:
Did the headlight bezel gaskets thanks to the MUD thread on it:
New Hood to Cowl gasket:
Added the SMS headlight harness with Hella H1/H4 Ece projectors and Hella +50 halogen bulbs (H4P50 and H1P50) to replace them original sealed beams. Also replaced all the hardware as the retainer screws were a mess to get out due to rust (vice grips). I marked the new adjustment screws based on rust lines on old ones in hopes to not mess with original headlight alignment too much but still need to adjust a bit. Anyone have a pointer to a good guide on aiming the four 62 headlights?
Installed rear hood bumpers that I didn't even know I was missing:
Did the headlight bezel gaskets thanks to the MUD thread on it:
New Hood to Cowl gasket:
Added the SMS headlight harness with Hella H1/H4 Ece projectors and Hella +50 halogen bulbs (H4P50 and H1P50) to replace them original sealed beams. Also replaced all the hardware as the retainer screws were a mess to get out due to rust (vice grips). I marked the new adjustment screws based on rust lines on old ones in hopes to not mess with original headlight alignment too much but still need to adjust a bit. Anyone have a pointer to a good guide on aiming the four 62 headlights?
Installed some lighting for the camp kitchen last night. We cook on the tailgate because we’re still just lowly “car campers” and not overlanders. Or at least that’s what we’ve always called it since before overlanding was a term that refers to car camping. The power feed is from an aux fuse panel on the driver side kickplate and then run inside the factory split loom to the back. I wanted it fused upstream in case anything happen to that wire on its way to the back. More protection not less. There’s a waterproof bus bar for positive and a non waterproof bus bar for ground mounted on the back of my cargo panel providing distro. Ground to the body runs under the wheel well cover to a rear seat hinge bolt.
I found fishing the wires through the hatch impossible so I discovered a trick: fish some washer hose first, which goes through the passage in about 30 seconds, and then run the wire through the middle of the hose. I also found that doing it in two stages worked best. Get the hose/wire thing through the first bend, pull the wires all the way through, and then go through the long side passage and bottom corner. One of the body hole plugs needs to be removed for that. I came up and out of the lock mechanism hole because I don’t have the little bezel and I was gunshy on drilling holes in the metal. For what it’s worth this thing was rust-proofed in the 80s with what seems to be cosmoline. It’s inside of every body panel, and while I’m happy about it, it does make fishing wires much more difficult - they get stuck on the waxy/gummy cosmoline.
Fishing expedition step one:
Fishing expedition step two showing the wire coming through:
Double sided tape holds the lights to the weather strip. I figure they have less of a chance of being smashed by cargo there, since the weatherstrip sits back from the metal.
Bunch of Blue Sea stuff mounted on an ABS board. That is mounted to the cargo panel via standoffs that I made with hardware from Belmetric. The final contact points at the board are neaoprene washers. Whether that’s actually going to dampen vibrations, I don’t know. Placement has to be just right to fit in between the body work supports.
You can see the switch for the lights here below a USB charger I also installed. The USB charger shows voltage and it fluctuates rapidly despite the same unit up front on the dash being rock steady. Maybe I got a bad one. You can also see the heads on the stand-off bolts - I didn’t want anything that would catch on cargo. (The switch will get ripped off - it’s something I had on hand and I’m ordering a near-flush domed push button to replace it).
The power feed and distro system will allow me to branch out and provide electrical for pretty much any future upgrade I want to do, like maybe a fridge. But for now it’s done!
***oops, photo of the front of the panel was before getting the switch installed. Here’s showing the switch that will for sure get snapped off at some point:
I found fishing the wires through the hatch impossible so I discovered a trick: fish some washer hose first, which goes through the passage in about 30 seconds, and then run the wire through the middle of the hose. I also found that doing it in two stages worked best. Get the hose/wire thing through the first bend, pull the wires all the way through, and then go through the long side passage and bottom corner. One of the body hole plugs needs to be removed for that. I came up and out of the lock mechanism hole because I don’t have the little bezel and I was gunshy on drilling holes in the metal. For what it’s worth this thing was rust-proofed in the 80s with what seems to be cosmoline. It’s inside of every body panel, and while I’m happy about it, it does make fishing wires much more difficult - they get stuck on the waxy/gummy cosmoline.
Fishing expedition step one:
Fishing expedition step two showing the wire coming through:
Double sided tape holds the lights to the weather strip. I figure they have less of a chance of being smashed by cargo there, since the weatherstrip sits back from the metal.
Bunch of Blue Sea stuff mounted on an ABS board. That is mounted to the cargo panel via standoffs that I made with hardware from Belmetric. The final contact points at the board are neaoprene washers. Whether that’s actually going to dampen vibrations, I don’t know. Placement has to be just right to fit in between the body work supports.
You can see the switch for the lights here below a USB charger I also installed. The USB charger shows voltage and it fluctuates rapidly despite the same unit up front on the dash being rock steady. Maybe I got a bad one. You can also see the heads on the stand-off bolts - I didn’t want anything that would catch on cargo. (The switch will get ripped off - it’s something I had on hand and I’m ordering a near-flush domed push button to replace it).
The power feed and distro system will allow me to branch out and provide electrical for pretty much any future upgrade I want to do, like maybe a fridge. But for now it’s done!
***oops, photo of the front of the panel was before getting the switch installed. Here’s showing the switch that will for sure get snapped off at some point:
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Nudge, nudge. Wink, wink.
Any idea why the wiring harness for Depo front blinkers for a 62 don’t match up with the body side harness? Ended up just using the old bulb assembly in the new housings. Anyways this is what I did today.
Yeah I just cut off old connector and spliced it into the new ones.
red66toy
Supporting Vendor
Truck is looking great!
