What did you do with your 60 this weekend? (3 Viewers)

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MoaByte said:
Wut? I am not there yet, please explain.
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The shifter for the hi-low is has a rod that protrudes through the case. The linkage is clamped onto the end of that rod after the case is assembled. Upon assembly, you can very easily knock the shifter out of position and it will drop into the case after you have everything RTVed and bolted up. Either installed the linkage to the end of the shifter rod or put a tag or tape on the end to prevent it from dropping back into the case before you get the linkage attached. Either way keep a strong magnet handy. I can imagine it dropping even while you’re installing the clamp to the end.
 
cps432 said:
The shifter for the hi-low is has a rod that protrudes through the case. The linkage is clamped onto the end of that rod after the case is assembled. Upon assembly, you can very easily knock the shifter out of position and it will drop into the case after you have everything RTVed and bolted up. Either installed the linkage to the end of the shifter rod or put a tag or tape on the end to prevent it from dropping back into the case before you get the linkage attached. Either way keep a strong magnet handy. I can imagine it dropping even while you’re installing the clamp to the end.
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Thank you. I had no idea.
 
cps432 said:
The shifter for the hi-low is has a rod that protrudes through the case. The linkage is clamped onto the end of that rod after the case is assembled. Upon assembly, you can very easily knock the shifter out of position and it will drop into the case after you have everything RTVed and bolted up. Either installed the linkage to the end of the shifter rod or put a tag or tape on the end to prevent it from dropping back into the case before you get the linkage attached. Either way keep a strong magnet handy. I can imagine it dropping even while you’re installing the clamp to the end.
Click to expand...

Actually the way to install the back half of the case without fear of dropping the shifter into the case is to install the internal hi-lo shifter and attach the outer linkage arm and tighten it down. Of course the arm is free of the linkage. Before you install the back half of the case note how the internal linkage must rotate to contact and interface with the notch in the hi-lo shift rod. Once you have the case lined up with the idler shaft and large bearing in the upper left corner you push the case half on and rotate the shift arm into place.
 
Godwin said:
Actually the way to install the back half of the case without fear of dropping the shifter into the case is to install the internal hi-lo shifter and attach the outer linkage arm and tighten it down. Of course the arm is free of the linkage. Before you install the back half of the case note how the internal linkage must rotate to contact and interface with the notch in the hi-lo shift rod. Once you have the case lined up with the idler shaft and large bearing in the upper left corner you push the case half on and rotate the shift arm into place.
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After struggling with getting things aligned without dropping it into the case, this is how I decided to do it in the future. If I ever have to go back in…
 
I started the rebuild on the split case for the 62. I back tracked a few times to fix mistakes and double check all my doubts.

It’s going well for my first time into my case.

My 38mm from the 60 is definitely getting 3:1 or 4:1 gears. This stuff is fun.

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I started it up and moved it to the other side of the field. There is a big storm coming in tonight and it was uncomfortably close to trees.

She started right up after 8 months of hibernating and with 2 year old diesel. The throttle was stuck open and it revved up to 4000 rpm right away which probably wasnt good for it.

I love this thing. Everything pretty much works, it just needs a few big jobs done before I can use it. I've had it a couple years and the progress is so slow, I just don't have a lot of time. And I don't trust anyone else to do most of the work. I've been focused on sealing up the roof and leaks as the first priority. I have almost finished that and then some floor rust repair, then the carpet goes in. Then more work on the underside. It's just frustrating how slow it goes.

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MarkBC said:
I started it up and moved it to the other side of the field. There is a big storm coming in tonight and it was uncomfortably close to trees.

She started right up after 8 months of hibernating and with 2 year old diesel. The throttle was stuck open and it revved up to 4000 rpm right away which probably wasnt good for it.

I love this thing. Everything pretty much works, it just needs a few big jobs done before I can use it. I've had it a couple years and the progress is so slow, I just don't have a lot of time. And I don't trust anyone else to do most of the work. I've been focused on sealing up the roof and leaks as the first priority. I have almost finished that and then some floor rust repair, then the carpet goes in. Then more work on the underside. It's just frustrating how slow it goes.

View attachment 3011529
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Slow and steady will get us there, man.
Mine is a basket case that had been sitting for a very long time with major engine issues, and is at least a runner now, after nearly 2 years of trying to acquire the thing and another 6 months of fixing one small thing at a time.
This summer will hopefully yield a lot of progress on mine.
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Just abusing her as a daily. Short trips only as necessary because I'm pissed about gas prices. I had to jerk a couple yahoos out of the mud, that was kinka fun then forgot to unlock my hubs for a few days. I'm getting an intermittent fuel leak that has me concerned. I'm having trouble with clamp pressure near the Sniper where the 3/8's hard line ends and the fuel hose to the Sniper begins.
 
MoaByte said:
Just abusing her as a daily. Short trips only as necessary because I'm pissed about gas prices. I had to jerk a couple yahoos out of the mud, that was kinka fun then forgot to unlock my hubs for a few days. I'm getting an intermittent fuel leak that has me concerned. I'm having trouble with clamp pressure near the Sniper where the 3/8's hard line ends and the fuel hose to the Sniper begins.
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That’s not a good place for a fuel leak…. I used some fuel safe pipe dope… ha ha ha… okay enough of that. Pipe dope, to seal up all the threads. I also don’t use standard worm clamps on the fuel hose. I made sure to only use the smooth ones that Holley supplied. I think over clamping can cause the rubber to bulge which can create a path of least resistance, especially if there’s heat on that rubber hose.
 
cps432 said:
That’s not a good place for a fuel leak…. I used some fuel safe pipe dope… ha ha ha… okay enough of that. Pipe dope, to seal up all the threads. I also don’t use standard worm clamps on the fuel hose. I made sure to only use the smooth ones that Holley supplied. I think over clamping can cause the rubber to bulge which can create a path of least resistance, especially if there’s heat on that rubber hose.
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I concur on the worm gear style clamps. I'm tempted to use this as an excuse to buy a flare tool.
 
MoaByte said:
I concur on the worm gear style clamps. I'm tempted to use this as an excuse to buy a flare tool.
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Give me an excuse and I’ll find you a reason.
 
MoaByte said:
I concur on the worm gear style clamps. I'm tempted to use this as an excuse to buy a flare tool.
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You know, I think you should get a flare tool so that you can try first and I can learn from your mistakes. 😁
 
Dirty nasty knuckles! Project Murdoc 87' 60
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