What did you do with your 60 this weekend? (13 Viewers)

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Seven cup holder 62 console refreshed with SEM color coat.
 
Dang, looking sharp! I am going to need to paint my console now. That looks so good!
I'm impressed with SEM. It isn't like any rattle can paint I've used. I didn't use the plastic prep but it seems to have bonded well. Graphite 15303
 
@bhicks is the maker for those cup holders.
 
Found the ignition key code stamped on top of the passenger side lock cylinder. Less than 5 min job to remove the door card and use my phone to take a pic...no need to remove the lock cylinder. Just needed to brush away some oxidation on the top of the cylinder where the code is stamped.

$5.42 to get the key cut at my local dealer. Now, the locking button on the steering column works and there's less worry about accidentally pulling it out while in AC mode and running down the battery. That's not all the good news. Looks like the door had never been opened before and it was pristine along the bottom...no rust. Whew!

Found out too that I needlessly bought used OEM 4WD VSV brackets and new solenoids from fellow MUDDER's. I still plan to install them as this is one of the few aftermarket bits on the truck, and it offends my sensibilities. Time for a 10-step program. The snow's melted in the drive and I crawled under the truck to turn the front drive shaft. It turns with 4WD high "off" and is locked with it "on", so I guess the PO"s aftermarket VSV's are just fine. No 4WD light though even with shifter in 4-Lo, so it's either the switch on the transfer case or the bulb.

Have a bucket of new parts and will drop off the truck at Doug DeLong in Buena Vista next week to get 4.56 gears, knuckle build, tune-up and other needed bits before deciding on the full restore.

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We finally had beautiful weather in Va Beach. So, after sealing my gas tank with Eastwood Gas sealet. I installed my Gas Tank and for the outside, I wired brushed, cleaned, treated with Rust Converter and sprayed it with Rustoleum rubber spray. Resprayed top of Air Cleaner.
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My 60 got to meet my old 100 i sold about a year ago. And the 60 got some new bushings starting from the rear until I discovered that the metal sleeve on of of my springs had snapped off from the spring itself and it was just bushings between the bolt and leafs. So stopped putting in new rubber when I know i am going to replacing the leafs soon. I am thinking Dobinsons. Super thankful for the heated garage I was able to use. Gotta love the cruiser community!
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Concept Rockers for the 62 folks ..........





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After sitting in storage over 17 years the fuel gauge on my 86 FJ60 was no longer working. I pulled up the rear carpet and padding to get to the access cover for the fuel sender. Then I unplugged the connector at the sender and turned on the ignition. The FSM says check that the meter needle "vibrates" near 3.5 V. I assume the manual was written for a analog volt meter. My digital was bouncing all over the place from around 3-7 V but since it was around 3.5 volts I figured the gauge and wiring were probably good. Next I checked the resistance across the old sender and it was wide open. Think I found the problem. I cleaned the area around the sender to prevent anything from falling in the tank and replaced the sender. The replacement included a new seal and screws. With around 3/4 tank the new sender read 27 ohms. I plugged in the connector and bada boom the fuel gauge was working again!

Does anyone know why the voltage across the fuel gauge vibrates? That seems strange.

Now I need to figure out why the volt meter is reading low. The battery was resting at 12.48 V when the picture was taken. Any thoughts?



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After sitting in storage over 17 years the fuel gauge on my 86 FJ60 was no longer working. I pulled up the rear carpet and padding to get to the access cover for the fuel sender. Then I unplugged the connector at the sender and turned on the ignition. The FSM says check that the meter needle "vibrates" near 3.5 V. I assume the manual was written for a analog volt meter. My digital was bouncing all over the place from around 3-7 V but since it was around 3.5 volts I figured the gauge and wiring were probably good. Next I checked the resistance across the old sender and it was wide open. Think I found the problem. I cleaned the area around the sender to prevent anything from falling in the tank and replaced the sender. The replacement included a new seal and screws. With around 3/4 tank the new sender read 27 ohms. I plugged in the connector and bada boom the fuel gauge was working again!

Does anyone know why the voltage across the fuel gauge vibrates? That seems strange.

Now I need to figure out why the volt meter is reading low. The battery was resting at 12.48 V when the picture was taken. Any thoughts?



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my gut reaction is your in the truck moving around no doubt , the fuel sender is a precision guage annd the fuel is well rolling and side to side small but measurable swells like a ocean tide a tad from you getting in and out of the truck working , so the float is oscillating up and down a tad ........

hence a variable constantly changing meter reading
 

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