What Did You Do With Your 120 Today? (5 Viewers)
- Thread starter kbahus
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PayPal? Venmo? 
Thanks for telling me where to look, as I completely missed that post. It looks great!
@tlin Let's see your setup.
Is pioneer 76 or 84"?
I might remember this.. are you using factory side Rails and rhino feet to clamp to siderails with a 76" platform?
Also, per your sig, tell me about the FCPs. how much lift did you get. Do you have extra weight?
33s tires?
I assume non KDSS...
pix and details. please, i'm deffinitely interested!
Sorry for the delay....
1. 76" vs. 84" - I don't remember (not able to measure for a few more days).
2. 33" KM2's (pizza cutters) - they aren't wearing great, FYI. I've had KM2's previously on my 80-series without any gripes but this batch isn't my favorite (uneven wear and balancing wheels has been problematic).
3. Non-KDSS, no significant "extra weight" (sliders but planning a hidden winch soon). No plans for heavy armor, FYI. With that, the FCP's are working juuuust fine for me (went with them after a much-appreciated discussion with @Vlad who helped me sift through the "which suspension upgrades do I go with" chat a few years ago).
Here's an edited version of a PM response from me to another member almost a year ago on the same Rhino platform topic (I really like this platform, FYI). Since the post below, I've learned that the OEM cross-rails aren't needed - I still haven't pulled them out but do plan to at some point in hopes of being able to fit a thin table under the Pioneer.
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I don't recall the length (76" vs. 84") but I intentionally got a wider one (54" is what I believe I went with vs. 48", which is "standard", from memory).
I also kept the OEM cross-rails in-place for additional lateral bracing - don't know if they're necessary or not an on many an occasion I contemplate removing them in order to tuck a low-profile table under the Rhino Rack (camping table) - one of those "some day" projects. Here's everything I went with (beyond the Pioneer rack itself):
Feet
Awning Brackets
Crossbars
The Back Bone is definitely a better looking alternative for the install (pricey from memory).
In the end, you're going to spend a decent amount to get what you need out of it but it's sure nice to have once it's all buttoned up. I've also adapted some t-slot fasteners from Home Depot (less expensive than the Rhino Rack items) to help with strap attachment points, etc.
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Hoping this helps - cheers!
Recent window belt swap. Accidentally dropped that rear window nut behind plastics, oops.
Nice result! Any trick as to not drop the said nut? Any vids on this that you know of? Thanks!
Got Weathertechs for the rear seats and rear cargo (the guy we got it from only had the front 2) don’t mind the 3rd row seats lol they will be coming out soon, we just bought this thing and I live in a smaller apartment and haven’t had time to drop them off at my dads place lol.
baby steps lol. Hopefully getting sliders this upcoming weekend.
baby steps lol. Hopefully getting sliders this upcoming weekend.
Started offering what?
Did front, rear and transfercase fluids.
I find it really strange that I only needed 6qts to do all three. Everyone here said it would take at least 7?
I find it really strange that I only needed 6qts to do all three. Everyone here said it would take at least 7?
MaverickFiveO
SILVER Star
I added Apex Overland recovery points to the front. I know there is dispute as to the viability of the factory hooks on the front, but I subscribe to the "tie-down" camp and want something strong enough for hard pulls.
The melted pit under the truck made it easier, but also wet and cold to lie under there for a while... A garage would be sweet. The recovery points mount at 4 locations on each. Two beefier bolts replace the sway bar bracket bolts:
These were serious to get off with just a ratchet. I don't know if that's normal for the sway bar bracket bolts, but even after breaking them free, they fought the whole way out. After removing those, you use the large, empty threaded hole with an included 19mm bolt and reuse the higher bracket thread hole with a new larger 14mm bolt.
Note that the new bolts are larger than the stock bolt for the bracket and the sway bar brackets. This means you'll need a smattering of sockets/wrenches to remove them and then bolt on the larger sizes. I made the mistake of sizing sockets to the new bolts, and promptly rounded off the first sway bar bracket bolt by putting too large of a socket on it. They aren't the same.
I obviously haven't had the chance to really test these, but they look and feel fall more solid. And they look slick. Let's be honest, that's half of why we do this!
The melted pit under the truck made it easier, but also wet and cold to lie under there for a while... A garage would be sweet. The recovery points mount at 4 locations on each. Two beefier bolts replace the sway bar bracket bolts:
These were serious to get off with just a ratchet. I don't know if that's normal for the sway bar bracket bolts, but even after breaking them free, they fought the whole way out. After removing those, you use the large, empty threaded hole with an included 19mm bolt and reuse the higher bracket thread hole with a new larger 14mm bolt.
Note that the new bolts are larger than the stock bolt for the bracket and the sway bar brackets. This means you'll need a smattering of sockets/wrenches to remove them and then bolt on the larger sizes. I made the mistake of sizing sockets to the new bolts, and promptly rounded off the first sway bar bracket bolt by putting too large of a socket on it. They aren't the same.
I obviously haven't had the chance to really test these, but they look and feel fall more solid. And they look slick. Let's be honest, that's half of why we do this!
MrTorgue
Grizzly Clint
Replaced a few interior bulbs with white LEDs. Downside is I went to replace the reverse bulbs and the boot door’s LH top trim’s tabs broke off. Guess that was expected on a 12 year old car. Also the map lights were hard to find out the bulb size as 99% of the internet apparently didn’t know that they are BA9S bulbs—so those are now in order. I’ll be doing the rest of the bulbs including the headlights this week.
Still mulling over what to do about the fog lights. Interested in side shooter pods but would be interested in finding very small LED light bars that would fit in to the fog light housing’s hole. I’ll scour the forums to see what others have done.
Still mulling over what to do about the fog lights. Interested in side shooter pods but would be interested in finding very small LED light bars that would fit in to the fog light housing’s hole. I’ll scour the forums to see what others have done.
Rear calipers, and blew apart the front end. Jersey hub bearing assemblies, new calipers, power stop towing rotors and pads. also plopped in some rad rubber to replace the oem cracked and missing bits. drivers side front tomorrow, and then a drain and refill service on the front diff,and maybe the transfer case.
still need to do the rear wheel bearings and seals, and rebuild the parking brake assembly on pass side
also showed my 80 some love as well.
still need to do the rear wheel bearings and seals, and rebuild the parking brake assembly on pass side
also showed my 80 some love as well.
I had the same experience installing these on my truck. The sway bar bolts and brackets were the only difficult part but everything else was easy
MaverickFiveO
SILVER Star
Everything else was pretty simple, I agree. It's a good kit. The only other problem I had, which I think was specific to my truck and why I didn't mention it, was the skid plate. It's my understanding that the skid plate has small hooks on the front edge that allow the skid plate to swing down after removing the bolts. Well, somewhere along the way, mine got bent/broken (probably from impacts) and my skid plate didn't swing so much as drop directly onto my face in sub-freezing weather. That sucked.
For anyone interested in these points, the kit from Apex Overland is great. Just be ready to muscle off the sway bar bolts, and do yourself a favor and double-check you skid plate contact points.
MaverickFiveO
SILVER Star
My Dometic CFX3 55im Fridge/freezer arrived and works great off the Blue Sea panel in the back. Next step is swapping the starter battery for a X2 AGM, and then building some drawers and a proper enclosure for the fridge. Between trips, it'll be a backup chest freezer for the house.
What pod lights are using in place of the fog lights?
How are the map lights cover taken out? Any tricks to it?
You just pop the cover off on the little indent that is on the plastic
Sliders happened today!
MrTorgue
Grizzly Clint
I used a smaller thinner panel removal tool and worked my way carefully from the inside of the lens and it popped (literally!) right out. Thankfully they didn’t crack like my boot (rear “hatch”) door’s upper trim did.
got it done, thanks!
