What did you do on your 70 series today? (9 Viewers)

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The 73 met a 55 today.

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got the DIY shade tree intercooler setup on the KZJ. Stole epaul's design and turned out pretty good. I also used an inexpensive bead roller on all the cut pipes to make sure they didnt pop off.

I guess you could call this a ''first draft'' as there are a few things I'd to clean up. Been daily driving it the last week and works great. no rattling or issues. Could be placebo but I feel like it has a bit more pep now.

Couple things I'd like to change:
-not a huge fan of the coupler clamps resting on the valve cover. Might intall a shock pad on the valve cover to help limit abrasion.
-piping in left fender wheel clears the wheel full lock but need to keep an eye on it when If im at full stuff/full lock (which would be rare)
-brackets holding intercooler in place are simply chopped L-brackets from home depot. Need to fab up a much cleaner bracket setup so i can clean better at night.




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Dig. Where is the intercooler mounted?
 
Anyone know the location of the blinker/indicator flasher relay on fzj75?

I’m having some issues on the LHD rear blinker and taillight and license plate lights, grounds are good but getting no +12v. I checked w a power probe.

Image below is of the tail light terminal, touching one of the ground terminals, two right most and bottom next to right most have good grounds. And upon activation of the lights and brake lights the two left should show +12v.

Also upon turning on the marker lights or headlights, the left blinker arrow stays ON solid. Something real screwy going on.

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Under the steering wheel, behind the crotch level vent. Remove the vent with a bolt and a screw, and then you can see the relays.
 
First test drive for this 99 HZJ73 after sitting for 7 years . I bought this cruiser back in 2018 in Europe when it was to young to import so I stored it at my dad’s place in Belgium until last year . Then it sat here in TX for almost a year until I finally had time to start on it . First test drive was to our monthly Lone Star cruiser meeting
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I was hoping to get better news on valve adjustment and injector rebuild on my new-to-me pickup with a 1HD-T. No such luck. Yesterday we pulled the head off and found lots of issues. The worst is 4 cracked pistons from what appears to be valve interference. The engine has recently had BEB's done, so I won't be able to see how bad the originals were. The valves were all tight, especially the intake valves. This is new to me, but from reading posts it sounds like the combination of BEB's and valve lash is the cause. In general, the engine looks really tired. It is getting expensive, but I don't need a giant paperweight sitting around and camping season is here, so I am planning for a replacement engine to get on the road and turn this lemon into lemonade by rebuilding the original engine myself over the next year-ish. I've got the "two steps back" part covered on the old saying. Now I'm ready for the "one step forward part"!
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Pretty normal these days on 30+ year old engines.

These all need overhauls now. No matter what any one says about it “running great before pulling.”
I agree. I am not freaking out, this is how it goes. I honestly am looking at some serious zen time doing the rebuild with some good tunes on the radio and a nice IPA on snowy Michigan winter nights.

My "shop" at home is tiny. It is a perfect little getaway for this kind of work.
 
got the DIY shade tree intercooler setup on the KZJ. Stole epaul's design and turned out pretty good. I also used an inexpensive bead roller on all the cut pipes to make sure they didnt pop off.

I guess you could call this a ''first draft'' as there are a few things I'd to clean up. Been daily driving it the last week and works great. no rattling or issues. Could be placebo but I feel like it has a bit more pep now.

Couple things I'd like to change:
-not a huge fan of the coupler clamps resting on the valve cover. Might intall a shock pad on the valve cover to help limit abrasion.
-piping in left fender wheel clears the wheel full lock but need to keep an eye on it when If im at full stuff/full lock (which would be rare)
-brackets holding intercooler in place are simply chopped L-brackets from home depot. Need to fab up a much cleaner bracket setup so i can clean better at night.




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To solve your first complaint, couldn't you cut the original intake pipe that leads to the manifold much closer to the level where the bolts are? That way you can do a 180 downwards instead of going across the engine twice and down.

The fabricator I mentioned that's going to make kits has made progress and his look pretty good for those of us that don't have the time to fab.
 
So about to start ordering parts for the combustion leak and stuck right now with what complete head setup to go with because of different gaskets and also valve level apparently for a 1994 Prado 78 series 1KZ-TE 3.0 TD?? Anyone have luck with a company that sells a plug and play complete head setup with all gaskets required for the replacement to include intake and what not. Also replacing timing belt, water pump, intake blasted and coated, and looking at intercooler setup since everything is going to be torn apart and I might as well make it right to last.......
 
@Redtexan What symptoms were you experiencing that made you test it? Just wondering.
driving to work going 80km/h and temp jumped from middle to halfway between middle and red. Slowed down and it went back to middle. overflow had bubbling/exhaust gas coming out and rad lost fluid, but did not see it on the ground or in the oil. Only thing changed was new tie rods and new snorkel.
 
So about to start ordering parts for the combustion leak and stuck right now with what complete head setup to go with because of different gaskets and also valve level apparently for a 1994 Prado 78 series 1KZ-TE 3.0 TD?? Anyone have luck with a company that sells a plug and play complete head setup with all gaskets required for the replacement to include intake and what not. Also replacing timing belt, water pump, intake blasted and coated, and looking at intercooler setup since everything is going to be torn apart and I might as well make it right to last.......
You might want to consider an engine overhaul gasket kit from Toyota. It is just about every seal for the engine. Very nice for doing the while you're in there seals, so you have everything on hand.

If you are doing the water pump might want to consider thermostat and any hoses that are suspect. There are also a couple oil seals that can be replaced when the front cover is off doing the timing belt.
 
So about to start ordering parts for the combustion leak and stuck right now with what complete head setup to go with because of different gaskets and also valve level apparently for a 1994 Prado 78 series 1KZ-TE 3.0 TD?? Anyone have luck with a company that sells a plug and play complete head setup with all gaskets required for the replacement to include intake and what not. Also replacing timing belt, water pump, intake blasted and coated, and looking at intercooler setup since everything is going to be torn apart and I might as well make it right to last.......

Contact Engines Australia and they should be able to put together a "kit" for you.

You will have to cobble everything together from Toyota and if you don't understand the part numbering system nor what you actually need to do the job, you will end up wasting a lot of time and money.
 
I was hoping to get better news on valve adjustment and injector rebuild on my new-to-me pickup with a 1HD-T. No such luck. Yesterday we pulled the head off and found lots of issues. The worst is 4 cracked pistons from what appears to be valve interference. The engine has recently had BEB's done, so I won't be able to see how bad the originals were. The valves were all tight, especially the intake valves. This is new to me, but from reading posts it sounds like the combination of BEB's and valve lash is the cause. In general, the engine looks really tired. It is getting expensive, but I don't need a giant paperweight sitting around and camping season is here, so I am planning for a replacement engine to get on the road and turn this lemon into lemonade by rebuilding the original engine myself over the next year-ish. I've got the "two steps back" part covered on the old saying. Now I'm ready for the "one step forward part"!
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When you say "The valves were all tight", do you mean the clearances were too small?
 
When you say "The valves were all tight", do you mean the clearances were too small?
Yep. Around .002" on 4 of 6 intake valves. 2 exhaust valves at .0012"
 
Just a wee bit different. 😁
** Photos courtesy of Odd Iron.
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You might want to consider an engine overhaul gasket kit from Toyota. It is just about every seal for the engine. Very nice for doing the while you're in there seals, so you have everything on hand.

If you are doing the water pump might want to consider thermostat and any hoses that are suspect. There are also a couple oil seals that can be replaced when the front cover is off doing the timing belt.
I appreciate that thought. I was planning on doing the thermostat as well because I thought that was the initial problem because my lower rad hose was cold while running, but ended up being more than that unfortunately. Concur with the seals because everything is off.
 
I'm between this and an ARB at the moment
I this the ARB is great but a bit too bulky. Reason I picked 4x4labs is I like the design, Luke is a friend and we don’t have kangaroos here so I don’t really need the bull bar.
 

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