What did you do on your 70 series today? (27 Viewers)

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This arrived recently for the 77. It was actually ordered before Covid-19 became a thing but finally came. I am working on some other projects at the moment so I will have to wait on installing it but I did put on a Japan4x4 decal on it at least.

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This arrived recently for the 77. It was actually ordered before Covid-19 became a thing but finally came. I am working on some other projects at the moment so I will have to wait on installing it but I did put on a Japan4x4 decal on it at least.

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BADASSSS! I want to do a troopy style top on my BJ74 in the future
 
BADASSSS! I want to do a troopy style top on my BJ74 in the future

Is the length of the 74 under or close to 94" from the end of the FRP top to the top of your cab where the windshield is? If so, I could see it being possible with this RTT. I am thinking there will probably be overhang though.
 
Is the length of the 74 under or close to 94" from the end of the FRP top to the top of your cab where the windshield is? If so, I could see it being possible with this RTT. I am thinking there will probably be overhang though.

Nope. It's 82~83" for roof length.

@SeanBJ74 I have a spare top and at some point I'm looking to upgrade it into a pop-top style setup. here is the thread and a bunch measurements on the tops
BJ74 Poptop, modular top camper or something - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/bj74-poptop-modular-top-camper-or-something.1214677/
 
You could grind it clean and try to weld a wrench or impact socket onto what's left of the plug.

Weld a
That’s one of the options. I’m going to start with rounds of penetrating oil over several days or longer. Then clean up the head and maybe grind some flats to grab it with either a crescent or vice grips. I was thinking of welding a short length of 1/4 bar stock to grab on to with a crescent, or pocket weld a thick piece of plate.
Fortunately this is something I can ease into.
 
Why the factory water temperature gauge
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never gives me the “warm fuzzies”. I had a Red Arc digital water temp. gauge installed while also leaving the factory gauge. At approximately 50 Degrees (C), the factory gauge settles in at approximately halfway. I‘ve seen increases of 40 degrees (C) on the Red Arc gauge (near 92 degrees C) and the factory gauge didn’t move. So if an increase of 40 degrees (C) didn’t move the factory gauge AT ALL can it be trusted to show an overheating engine? I don't plan to find out.

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Those are sexy gauges
 
Those are sexy gauges
They are nice and bright for old, blind guys. 🙂
Still need to hook up the amp gauge. (Part of the dual voltage gauge)
 
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That’s one of the options. I’m going to start with rounds of penetrating oil over several days or longer. Then clean up the head and maybe grind some flats to grab it with either a crescent or vice grips. I was thinking of welding a short length of 1/4 bar stock to grab on to with a crescent, or pocket weld a thick piece of plate.
Fortunately this is something I can
Why the factory water temperature gaugeView attachment 2685156never gives me the “warm fuzzies”. I had a Red Arc digital water temp. gauge installed while also leaving the factory gauge. At approximately 50 Degrees (C), the factory gauge settles in at approximately halfway. I‘ve seen increases of 40 degrees (C) on the Red Arc gauge (near 92 degrees C) and the factory gauge didn’t move. So if an increase of 40 degrees (C) didn’t move the factory gauge AT ALL can it be trusted to show an overheating engine? I don't plan to find out.

View attachment 2685157A HUGE problem with the factory tempertature probe on a 3B diesel is that if water leaks out and there is no longer water in the head it won't contact the temperature probe and it won't register as hot. My guage works and my probe is good, but when a freeze plug blew out and all the water blew out of the engine, it overheated cracked the head and locked up and my temperature guage never went out of normal range..........................Not sure how to prevent that nightmare scenario?
 
Went to a local trail for a nice cruise in the rain. On my way out I was testing Metto on some obstacles, nothing too crazy, but my wipers got stuck in the up position. After a drive home in the rain, stopping every so often and manually wiping, took a closer look. Ended up knocking my wiper link assembly off the motor. Weird. Oh well, fixed now. Glad it wasn’t electrical.

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Went to a local trail for a nice cruise in the rain. On my way out I was testing Metto on some obstacles, nothing too crazy, but my wipers got stuck in the up position. After a drive home in the rain, stopping every so often and manually wiping, took a closer look. Ended up knocking my wiper link assembly off the motor. Weird. Oh well, fixed now. Glad it wasn’t electrical.
I was always wondering whether there is a way to lube the wiper linkage. But I never figured any way to get even near it.
Any suggestions?
 
I was always wondering whether there is a way to lube the wiper linkage. But I never figured any way to get even near it.
Any suggestions?
Once you remove the sheet metal, there’s 6 screws on the LJ78, you’ll see some access points to connect the linkage to the wipers. It’s tight but could work.
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I was always wondering whether there is a way to lube the wiper linkage. But I never figured any way to get even near it.
Any suggestions?

Hello,

In a nutshell:
  1. Remove the wipers.
  2. Remove the grille below the wipers. Six Phillips screws.
  3. Unplug the wiper motor.
  4. Remove the wiper motor. Four bolts and some prying to release the ball joint.
  5. Remove the left wiper stake. Three bolts.
  6. Remove the right wiper stake. Three bolts.
  7. Carefully pull the linkage out,
There are four joints in the linkage to lubricate.

Once you lubricate the mechanism, install the linkage, motor and wipers, starting from step 7.

Hope this helps.





Juan
 

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