Spotted this sexy beast in the wild today.
What did you do on your 70 series today? (40 Viewers)
- Thread starter IH8MUD
- Start date
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I would be interested too.
P.M. sent
That dome light @Gun Runner 5 sold me was admittedly one of the first things I did, but I love it. Especially having only one it really makes a difference. My rear doors aren't switched, is this normal?
I changed my waterpump and thermostat today (and yesterday). Thermostat took like 20 minutes tops, but the waterpump has proven to be tricky. The hose between the pump and the lower thermostat housing was very hard to reinstall. I had to get a new length of hosing so maybe it was just stiff. I also had difficulties working around the lower hardline for the interior heat exchanger. I initially couldn't remove the pump at all, but I just gently bent it out a half inch or so and got the clearance needed to swing the pump out.
Wire wheeled all the contact surfaces and installed new gaskets, as well as making the switch from the 88* to 82* thermostat. Excited about that.
Biggest surprise today was seeing my Upper thermostat housing look like this on the inside:
Crappy pic. There was a fair amount of surface corrosion on a lot of the hose fittings so I'm pleasantly surprised here.
I changed my waterpump and thermostat today (and yesterday). Thermostat took like 20 minutes tops, but the waterpump has proven to be tricky. The hose between the pump and the lower thermostat housing was very hard to reinstall. I had to get a new length of hosing so maybe it was just stiff. I also had difficulties working around the lower hardline for the interior heat exchanger. I initially couldn't remove the pump at all, but I just gently bent it out a half inch or so and got the clearance needed to swing the pump out.
Wire wheeled all the contact surfaces and installed new gaskets, as well as making the switch from the 88* to 82* thermostat. Excited about that.
Biggest surprise today was seeing my Upper thermostat housing look like this on the inside:
Crappy pic. There was a fair amount of surface corrosion on a lot of the hose fittings so I'm pleasantly surprised here.
@badusmaximus .... “That dome light @Gun Runner 5 sold me was admittedly one of the first things I did, but I love it. Especially having only one it really makes a difference.”
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Thanks for the kind words.
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Thanks for the kind words.
FJBen
SILVER Star
Short drive in the mountains.
Front recovery points from Odd Iron Off-road
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That doesn't look like Nebraska...
FJBen
SILVER Star
it’s not
. It’s a little further west up the Thompson canyon past Loveland, Co...my old stomping grounds
'Finished' the house battery wiring yesterday. Still need to cut the cig. lighter plug off and wire the DC power to the Anderson plug. The cig lighter port wiggles loose periodically and sticks out too far into the 'walkway'.
Figured out tonight that the left side of the cooler holds a 30 pack of Coors, kind of a nice design feature.
Figured out tonight that the left side of the cooler holds a 30 pack of Coors, kind of a nice design feature.
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used Thule artificial gutter mounts.
i used Thule artificial gutter mounts. I lined Them up with the gutter mounts above the doors.
I didnt Use the bolts that came with it, I needed Longer ones due to the thickness of the FRP top but I used The same diameter bolt. I then Found aluminum tube that’s ID was a similar diameter as the bolts. I drilled holes the diameter of the aluminum tube.
I used the tube as a shoulder so that the nuts didn’t crush the frp material. I cut The tube the length of the depth of the interior to exterior thickness of the top. I inserted the tube first. Then mounted the gutter mounts.
I used smittybilt HD gutter mounts. They weren’t quite tall enough to a quick fix was using 1” rubber bushings that came from a coil lift kit at Oreillys to clear the top of the frp.
I just Used 1x2” aluminum stock tubing for cross bars that i cut down and ordered some end covers for it off amazon.
it’s not the best way to mount something. Preferred way is to tie a rack into the frame, but due to time and aesthetics, I went This route and just hoped itwould work and it did. Unfortunately, I I ever get into a wreck, I have no hope of it staying attached.
What did you use for your flooring substrate? is that fridge stand bolted directly to the Troopy's metal flooring or to some kind of wood decking?
It’s kinda cool when the boss-man likes your products. 
Go to page 12 of this thread for more details/pics, 1/2" plywood, bolted down to rivnuts in body, the stand is bolted to the wood floor with t-nuts on the bottom side and mounted to the seat bolt-down captive nuts on the backside/wall side.
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Removed my front porch bumper today and prepped the frame nubs for the ARB install... or so I thought. My frame is ~1mm or less too wide for the bumper to fit. Kept scratching off paint when I would try, which was infuriating as I would sand, repaint, wait, and scratch it again. I was able to get both sides on, but not without scratching the paint (rubberized undercoating- thick and maybe not the best choice)
Searched old mud posts... mainly from 80 series owners who are able to use HD ratcheting tie downs on their frames and/or stretch the bumper to make the mounts work.
On a 70 series, the frame nubs aren't as long and there are circular reinforcing bars going crosswise on both the bumper and chassis, so I'm not sure I would be able to have a wide strap and the bumper on the frame at the same time.
I was going to use a sander to plane a few hairs off the outside of the RH frame wall. There's more material behind there than on the LH side for some reason. Also going to take all paint off and POR 15 the nubs so as to have a hard coating after.
Thoughts?
Searched old mud posts... mainly from 80 series owners who are able to use HD ratcheting tie downs on their frames and/or stretch the bumper to make the mounts work.
On a 70 series, the frame nubs aren't as long and there are circular reinforcing bars going crosswise on both the bumper and chassis, so I'm not sure I would be able to have a wide strap and the bumper on the frame at the same time.
I was going to use a sander to plane a few hairs off the outside of the RH frame wall. There's more material behind there than on the LH side for some reason. Also going to take all paint off and POR 15 the nubs so as to have a hard coating after.
Thoughts?
Cheers!
My ARB was pretty difficult to get on- it wanted to be perfectly lined up with the frame, and still required some good love taps with 5 lb sledge and wood block. I'm sure it removed the thin factory paint. I coated the frame and inside of the bumper receiving tubes with fluid film prior to fitting. I can easily see you scraping off any thick undercoating used on your frame with the installation.
If it's not to much to grind it down then a large angle grinder can probably make quick work of it. A thin protective coating of primer/paint with a coat of ez-slide sprayed over it when it's dry will probably help your bumper slide on easily. EZ slide is available on amazon or at tractor supply EZ-Slide Graphite Based Coating, 12 oz. Aerosol at Tractor Supply Co.
If you're really concerned about rust inside your assembled bumper then let it rust a bit then spray with rust converter followed by a thin penetrating oil based spray on rust protective undercoating that will seap into cracks and not just lay on the surface.
I went to pick up the garnish I ordered a few weeks ago from a local Toyota dealer for the right center pillar. The previous owner had screwed a fluorescent lamp into the center pillar and I removed it.
Over the weekend, I went for a few days on a road trip in the archipelago. There were 8 or 9 ferry trips on the trip. After adjusting the carburetor, the Cruiser runs much better and fuel consumption dropped more than 1.5 liters per 100 km.
Over the weekend, I went for a few days on a road trip in the archipelago. There were 8 or 9 ferry trips on the trip. After adjusting the carburetor, the Cruiser runs much better and fuel consumption dropped more than 1.5 liters per 100 km.
