What did you do on your 70 series today? (24 Viewers)

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Finished installing my new springs today. The stock springs were fairly flat and the bushings were cracked. After installing the winch and bumper on the front she was a little nose low and I only had 1-2" between the axle and the rubber bump stop. 2-3" in the back. I installed a set of old man emu springs that are supposed to give a two to three inch lift. I ended up with two and a half to three inches of lift.

I planned on reusing the stock shackles but upon removal they were pitted and gouged badly under the bushings. I fabricated some new shackles and they are exactly 1 inch longer than the original. I wanted a little bit longer shackle to give the spring the movement to flex outward with the extra Arch it has. I wish I had ordered shackles with the springs. It cost almost as much to fabricate the shackles as it does to buy them ready-made. I chose to fabricate so I didn't have to wait for the shackles to come in. I welded a plate in between the shackles to prevent inversion, brace them, and hold the width the same as factory to avoid over tightening..... I did not realize beforehand that tractor supply company has 5/8 to 3/4 bushings that are 1.62" long. Two of these bushings are the exact width needed between the shackle plates and if placed over the shackle bolts would work perfectly enabling you to crank down on the bolts without worry of over-tightening. I was going to do this on the rear end but they only had three of these bushings on the shelf, so I continued on with the welded plates in between to hold width and brace.

I also made a quick release sway bar link for the driver side. I can undo a bolt and disconnect this prior to off-roading for greater articulation and ride comfort.

All bearing surfaces on the suspension are coated with spray paint, then graphite-based dry lube paint, and greased prior to assembly.

The ride with the new springs is phenomenally better. The jarring and bottoming out is gone. Most of the road vibration and noise is gone. if I had known it was going to be this good I never would have gone with suspension seats I would have just replace springs from the get-go.

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Finished the fridge slide & tilt for my 42L. Used 40x40x3mm angle and 40x3mm flat to build the tray and base, 550mm drawer runners (rated 35kg each), an indexing plunger for the lock-in, 100mm piano hinges for tilting (one side welded to base, other screwed directly to my storage structure), and a piece of strap to limit tilt.

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Finished the fridge slide & tilt for my 42L. Used 40x40x3mm angle and 40x3mm flat to build the tray and base, 550mm drawer runners (rated 35kg each), an indexing plunger for the lock-in, 100mm piano hinges for tilting (one side welded to base, other screwed directly to my storage structure), and a piece of strap to limit tilt.

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Wow, this is so well done. I need this on my Troopy...
 
A good afternoon to be in a 70 Series Land Cruiser. :)
(Photo courtesy of Odd Iron Off Road)
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oh rain! The last 2 years we had flooding and tons of rain. This year we’ve had no rain...like zero so far. Hot and dry and windy.
good for driving with the top off, but terrible for crops and irrigation.
We’ve had ~ 5” in the last 48 hours.
 
Is there a better plate in the US than the New Mexico turquoise and yellow one? I don't think so (drill slipped when making new bolt holes) o_O. Also added the 80/20 1x2" roof rack bars using L brackets and these nifty end caps. Ready for a 200w solar array to go into the National Luna box. We're redoing our roof just in time for monsoon season and had a leftover 2x12 so I made a quick n dirty box for the Dometic CFX75 to get it up off the ground and over the wheel well (how do people attach cabinets to the floor of the Troopy?) I'm going to ratchet strap it down via the seating brackets for now. New Australian door cards in the cargo area and door trim went in too... As well as a boost controller which I can't get to hit 14psi for some reason. It tops out at 12psi. :confused:

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A small problem occurred. Also repairs made by previous owners. Now it's okay again, but the idea is to model and laser-cut the new brackets to replace the old ones which have been patched many times.


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(how do people attach cabinets to the floor of the Troopy?)

Those door cards look VERY nice.

For securing things to the floor of the Troopy I used four holes in the floor (a few were pre-existing from the Swiss cheese work of previous owners) to bolt in a piece of plywood. Everything is built off that platform and/or otherwise secured to it. You can see what I did in my thread...

Make sure you bolt through one of the raised ribs, otherwise you'll dent/deflect the floor metal while tightening.
 
Those door cards look VERY nice.

For securing things to the floor of the Troopy I used four holes in the floor (a few were pre-existing from the Swiss cheese work of previous owners) to bolt in a piece of plywood. Everything is built off that platform and/or otherwise secured to it. You can see what I did in my thread...

Make sure you bolt through one of the raised ribs, otherwise you'll dent/deflect the floor metal while tightening.

Makes sense. That what I was going to do, just didn't know if anyone had other means. Great build thread. Thanks!
 
Home renovations nearly finished so starting to free up time for the cruiser again.
Doing some short trips and pushing him a bit harder to see if anything fails I n preparation of some longer trips.
Rear bar work part 2 up next. Then maybe some underbody protection.

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Testing 12H-T after rebuild :) The plan is to install it on BJ75 in the near future.





Next J75 gets a new 6H9 paint, in a couple of weeks I hope..

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Beautiful! You could eat off that engine... so clean.
 

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