What did you do on your 70 series today? (17 Viewers)

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Changed the speedo to an mph version, it was in km/h originally and I changed the dial face but in doing so damaged something as the needle was behaving quite erratic between 30 and 70mph. So I went for a new Mr T unit which is working well now.

Before:
View attachment 2207178

With just the dial face changed:
View attachment 2207179

And how it is now after changing the whole speedo unit:View attachment 2207182
Very nice cluster that. I am presuming that you have the 1hz? The red on the rev counter starts directly after 4000 rpms on the 1hd-fte motor. It's interesting the little differences mr t made. The 1fz was different again.
 
Knocked up a pair of sway bar spacers, my truck has a 40mm lift with OME shocks and springs, but the OME spacers weren't there.
IMG-20200207-WA0005.jpeg


And fitted
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While not directly 70 Series related, Rob did design a do-dad to securely hold my Go Pro.
I can now share my trips to Wal-Mart with everyone.
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If you leave it on there in the parking lot it will be a Gone Pro. :doh:
 
If you leave it on there in the parking lot it will be a Gone Pro. :doh:
Thankfully the truck itself has the ultimate anti-theft device (aka a manual transmission). :)
 
I had custom ac work done in Charlottesville VA. They advertise as a “Tubes and Hoses” franchise. Maybe there is one near you.
 
Don’t they sell GoPro mounts at Wal-Mart?
Not like this one. It’s fabricated from scrap 1HDT parts. The Wal-Mart ones are not.
 
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What are E hubs? I've got the manual Aisin one's and I've seen the auto type on other 70 series but not heard of E hubs before.
 
What are E hubs? I've got the manual Aisin one's and I've seen the auto type on other 70 series but not heard of E hubs before.

I think they were just used in the select JDM 1990+ 70 series. Basically Toyota ran wires in the spindle to a special little slip ring. The hubs had brushes and more wires to a little motor. Pushing a button in the cab turned on the motor to engage/disengage the hubs. Neat idea, but too delicate to survive long in a landcruiser world. I serviced mine carefully eight years ago, and they did faithfully perform fine since then. But there is always that question when you push the button..."will my hubs work this time?"

Here's how my hubs looked the first time (these are the e-hubs):

SAM_0071.jpg
 
I think they were just used in the select JDM 1990+ 70 series. Basically Toyota ran wires in the spindle to a special little slip ring. The hubs had brushes and more wires to a little motor. Pushing a button in the cab turned on the motor to engage/disengage the hubs. Neat idea, but too delicate to survive long in a landcruiser world. I serviced mine carefully eight years ago, and they did faithfully perform fine since then. But there is always that question when you push the button..."will my hubs work this time?"

Here's how my hubs looked the first time (these are the e-hubs):

SAM_0071.jpg
Thanks for the explanation, like you say a neat idea but maybe not so neat in the real world. Probably expensive too compared to the manual hubs.
 
Did you put some type of sealant on the arms above and below your knuckle? Never seen that before. Neither are places that leak.

I knew someone would notice that and ask, haha. I'm sure many will disprove also. Anyhow, first time I rebuilt my front axle 8 years ago my kingpin bearings were completely toast/rusty from water leaking in around the cone washers etc. At that time, after installing new races/bearings, I put a touch bit of sealant between the upper arm and the knuckle as those bearings had been the worst. Not around the cone washers, just the studs and the flat surface. 99% squeezed out when I torqued everything, so there was still solid contact. When I took everything apart again last week for a second rebuild, the top kingpin bearings were in PERFECT shape, but the lower ones clearly had some minor water intrusion as they were a little bit tarnished with rust. So this time I repeated the sealant top and bottom. Again, I put in very little, and not around cone washers. Most squeezes out, but enough remains to keep water out. If I'd wiped the excess off that squeezed out, you would not even be able to tell it was there. But I left the excess on purpose to help keep the seal.
 
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