What did you do on your 70 series today? (32 Viewers)

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I drove my Cruiser into the winter nest. I'm going to drive it for a few days in the winter, but mostly it will be parked under the roof. I don't have winter tires for this, and I don't want to drive on salted roads.
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I started to take apart the steering linkage to replace the relay rod and tie rod ends and the steering damper. I got all of the castellated nuts off after having to deal with super rusted up cotter pins. I tried to use a pickle fork on the relay rod/pitman arm ball joint … no dice. Picked up a screw lever type at Princess Auto. Will try it, hopefully tomorrow.
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In the process I discovered I have 4x4 Engineering leaf springs. The label was buried under a good coating of dirt.
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Does anyone have any experience with them?
They're a very common aftermarket dealer in Japan. They make the Bradley V wheels, "Country" suspension and more:

 
The other day I was trying to find a lost screw (which I never found). While doing this I suddenly remembered that the scheel-mann seats have a feature where the middle portion of the bottom can be raised up. Came in pretty handy during my search. I will probably be doing this in the future when I need to do a deep clean under the seats. It can get kinda nasty around the suspension bases but this will help me keep it cleaner.

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Left my headlights on from about noon on Saturday until Sunday morning at 0700, when I went to start it to go boarding...both batteries were dead-dead.

I have a12v jump pack, it seems to only work if I hook it up to the 'upstream' battery, if I hook it up to the battery closest to the starter, it won't turn on/gives an error-red exclamation point light illuminates, which I believe means it thinks I've hooked up the cables wrong. It must sense some voltage coming in to the negative side from the other battery as they're hooked up in series. Edit : I think the second battery was too dead for it to sense it.

Hooked up jumper cables from my wife's running 80 to the starter-side battery and put the jump pack on the passenger side battery and she fired up.

I need to move my house battery so it's more accessible to use as a jumpstart battery in the event this happens when no one is around to get a jump from.
 
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Left my headlights on from about noon on Saturday until Sunday morning at 0700, when I went to start it to go boarding...both batteries were dead-dead.

I have a12v jump pack, it seems to only work if I hook it up to the 'upstream' battery, if I hook it up to the battery closest to the starter, it won't turn on/gives an error-red exclamation point light illuminates, which I believe means it thinks I've hooked up the cables wrong. It must sense some voltage coming in to the negative side from the other battery as they're hooked up in series.

Hooked up jumper cables from my wife's running 80 to the starter-side battery and put the jump pack on the passenger side battery and she fired up.

I need to move my house battery so it's more accessible to use as a jumpstart battery in the event this happens when no one is around to get a jump from.
Did you connect directly to the battery posts or to o a body ground?
 
Did you connect directly to the battery posts or to o a body ground?
Directly to the posts. If I go to ground, on the starter side, I'd get 24v back to the 12v vehicle. I didn't try hooking the jump-pack (also a 12v model) up with the positive on the battery and the negative on a body ground, seems like it wouldn't like that either, but maybe with both batteries completely dead, I could hook the jump pack up to either one prior to putting jumper cables on.

Not sure what's the right way to jump it from a 12v vehicle. This way has worked for me in the past and caused no problems...yet.

I did look into getting a 24v jump pack and they were really expensive. This one will jump the truck if it's just a bit low, like 22-volts, but as I said before, it only works if I hook it to the first battery in the series. Hooking it to the second battery in the series, it sees the 12v. coming from the first battery and thinks I've swapped polarity and won't do anything.

Found this video, I do have a spare battery in the garage on a charger. If I had another one, I could wire them up in series to use as a 24v jump system in the future. It would just work in my driveway as I probably wouldn't pack them both around with me.
 
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Funny Story: my best friend Emily is dating Cameron Falconer who has built Morgan Fletcher a number of bikes and is building me a single speed MTB as we speak…. Good chance I’ll disappear in the near future as well.

Probably lots of folks who’d be happy if I did….😂😂😂

Bikes are tight. Single speed bikes even more so.
Single speeds
 
We use 2 12 volt Jump packs on 24 volt trucks. Each pack is individually connected to each battery's terminals. We have also jumped them with a single 12 volt pack, connected to the battery with the lowest voltage. Sometimes that's enough.
 
Directly to the posts. If I go to ground, on the starter side, I'd get 24v back to the 12v vehicle. I didn't try hooking the jump-pack (also a 12v model) up with the positive on the battery and the negative on a body ground, seems like it wouldn't like that either, but maybe with both batteries completely dead, I could hook the jump pack up to either one prior to putting jumper cables on.

Not sure what's the right way to jump it from a 12v vehicle. This way has worked for me in the past and caused no problems...yet.

I did look into getting a 24v jump pack and they were really expensive. This one will jump the truck if it's just a bit low, like 22-volts, but as I said before, it only works if I hook it to the first battery in the series. Hooking it to the second battery in the series, it sees the 12v. coming from the first battery and thinks I've swapped polarity and won't do anything.

Found this video, I do have a spare battery in the garage on a charger. If I had another one, I could wire them up in series to use as a 24v jump system in the future. It would just work in my driveway as I probably wouldn't pack them both around with me.
 
We stabbed the 77 1HZ back in its hole-home this weekend. Huge relief to have it back in there... but still lots to do. Thankful for a knowledgeable buddy helping me.

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In other big news: Found a Yeti Mug adapter on the Etsy that fits tight in the OEM 70 series square "cup" holder. Kinda square-ish mount and it's adjustable. First drive in the 73 this morning with it. Everyone is safer with my coffee secured. Welcome.

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We stabbed the 77 1HZ back in its hole-home this weekend. Huge relief to have it back in there... but still lots to do. Thankful for a knowledgeable buddy helping me.

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In other big news: Found a Yeti Mug adapter on the Etsy that fits tight in the OEM 70 series square "cup" holder. Kinda square-ish mount and it's adjustable. First drive in the 73 this morning with it. Everyone is safer with my coffee secured. Welcome.

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Awesome work Brian. 🤘🤘🤘
 
The reason we dont have a 70 here in the US

H.R. 2628. Sponsored by a Republican congressman during the Reagan administration.

If you want it repealed, lobby Congress. Not that they’re too interested in legislation these days, but that’s the only way to get it done.

Or just smuggle one in. That’s been done too.
 
We use 2 12 volt Jump packs on 24 volt trucks. Each pack is individually connected to each battery's terminals. We have also jumped them with a single 12 volt pack, connected to the battery with the lowest voltage. Sometimes that's enough.
I think it was either operator error on my part, or the second battery in the series was too dead for the jump pack to realize it was hooked up to anything.

I talked to a co-worker electrical engineer, he said it shouldn't matter, if I hook up to either with the jump pack, post to post as there's no reference to ground.

We went to the parking lot and I hooked it up to show him what happened, and it worked fine, pretty sure it was too dead, kind of like when you hook up a new 'smart' battery charger to a fully discharged battery and it won't turn on to charge it.
 

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