I'm a little flush with Cruisers at the moment.
If I buy another one I'll be living in it.
Last edited:
What did you do on your 70 series today? (10 Viewers)
- Thread starter IH8MUD
- Start date
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If I buy another one I'll be living in it.
Replaced the front main oil seal and crank pulley. The good ole 3B did not make it an easy job. Now to road test it for a few days with just local trips so I can keep a check on my workmanship.
Here are couple of shots once I had the new seal, timing gear cover and crank pulley re-installed.
Here are couple of shots once I had the new seal, timing gear cover and crank pulley re-installed.
jblueridge
SILVER Star
I had some time to pull out the old, confusing and seemingly faulty fog light wiring.
I will install two 24V mini relays and will be able to run fog lights and headlights at the same time.
I will install two 24V mini relays and will be able to run fog lights and headlights at the same time.
Been tidying some wiring myself. Partly redundant crap, partly my stuff that worked, but wasn't pretty. From this:
To this:
Also did some tidying under the dash. Drove to work this morning & no magic smoke came out - so far so good!
Cheers
Clint
To this:
Also did some tidying under the dash. Drove to work this morning & no magic smoke came out - so far so good!
Cheers
Clint
Finally got around to doing an oil change
The pz is happy again
Sent from my iPhone
The pz is happy again
Sent from my iPhone
Tested the factory winch. Solenoids were clicking both directions. Did some trouble shooting. Motor works when connected directly. Issue was the nut connection from the relay to winch body connector stud with insulator under the rubber boot. The 12mm nuts had rusted through and no good electric connection.
Will assemble tomorrow with new washers and nuts. the small Phillips screws for the cover were also rusted through. had to use drill and easy-out. will replace with small bolts instead and seal with vaseline.
Will assemble tomorrow with new washers and nuts. the small Phillips screws for the cover were also rusted through. had to use drill and easy-out. will replace with small bolts instead and seal with vaseline.
jblueridge
SILVER Star
I bodge-welded steel patches onto my PIAA fog light cans. Old thin metal kept blowing out. Copper backing plate was only semi-usefull; the curved shape made it hard to get the copper backer tight against the steel. Big holes seen in pic are for bolts or wires.
I globbed over the bad welding with Hi Temp Lab Metal. It should sand down to a smooth finish. I will get the cans powder-coated.
I sourced new chrome rings from England. They will require a tiny amount of cutting for them to work with the old cans.
Original rings were ruined.
I globbed over the bad welding with Hi Temp Lab Metal. It should sand down to a smooth finish. I will get the cans powder-coated.
I sourced new chrome rings from England. They will require a tiny amount of cutting for them to work with the old cans.
Original rings were ruined.
Replaced the fuel tank sending unit today in my BJ70.
It quickly turned into a more involved project when 4 of the 5 screws broke. To get reasonable access to remove the broke screws, I pulled the tank out.
Since I have found alternating between heat and penetrating oil, I did not want to be a Darwin award winner for using an open flame on a fuel tank. My solution was to vent welding gas (Argon - CO2 mix) into the tank to inert the fuel tank.
The heat and penetrating oil worked on 3 screws which I was able to back out. The last screw had to be drilled out and the hole re-tapped.
From there on, everything went back together well but it just took several hours. Here is a picture of the tank with the new gauge before I started the re-install.
Thanks to Onur (Beno) for the setting me up with the new gauge.
It quickly turned into a more involved project when 4 of the 5 screws broke. To get reasonable access to remove the broke screws, I pulled the tank out.
Since I have found alternating between heat and penetrating oil, I did not want to be a Darwin award winner for using an open flame on a fuel tank. My solution was to vent welding gas (Argon - CO2 mix) into the tank to inert the fuel tank.
The heat and penetrating oil worked on 3 screws which I was able to back out. The last screw had to be drilled out and the hole re-tapped.
From there on, everything went back together well but it just took several hours. Here is a picture of the tank with the new gauge before I started the re-install.
Thanks to Onur (Beno) for the setting me up with the new gauge.
jblueridge
SILVER Star
Good job Larry.
Was the fuel tank empty of fuel?
I have often wondered about heat and sparks near a fuel tank.
I have been told that a full tank does not allow as much vapor to be stored in there.
Genius idea to fill it with inert gas.
Was the fuel tank empty of fuel?
I have often wondered about heat and sparks near a fuel tank.
I have been told that a full tank does not allow as much vapor to be stored in there.
Genius idea to fill it with inert gas.
Yes, I drained the tank before I dropped it out. I am too old and weak to handle extra weight where I can avoid it.
I had heard about the full fuel tank concept before, but I am a chicken. Plus, 23 gallons of fuel equates to added potential energy to me. This extra energy could make for an extremely bad day out my potential stupidity; that was a mix that I opted out of so I drained it to have minimum energy state.
Not really genius. At work we design all our new aircraft to pump N2 in fuel tank voids to reduce explosion risk from the tanks. Hence, I was just trying being a copy cat. Thanks, regardless of my truth.
Put the RTT up on the roof, finally. Vertically challenged so had to use the deck since i was solo on this one.
Did some exploring.
Arch Canyon, UT:
Arch Canyon, UT:
nice cheeky vdj gx badge
, sad to see her go?
Did ya go out for a meet? Im hoping to make it to cruiserfest
Yeah, kinda sad haha. But it freed up some funds for my current project.nice cheeky vdj gx badge
