What did you do on your 70 series today? (21 Viewers)
- Thread starter IH8MUD
- Start date
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Likewise my friend , we are always happy to see you , drive safe with that twin engine prius
Hey Beno, I hope you blessed the 1HZ in the gray 73 series sitting in his shop.
your new vehicle was discussed. I drove it and I blessed it. Divorce is not in your future.
'Fabbed' up a radiator block-off screen for this winter. Used some scrap raft material. Bolted at the top and bottom, I'll see how warm it runs and will be able to roll it up from the bottom to let some air in if necessary.
Cardboard works a treat
I spy a late Type 3! Squareback or fastback? My brother @SnowVersion has a ‘66 Fastback, I credit it with getting me interested in working on cars.
1970 fastback. Never had a vw before. Just got it last week. It was what my wife had for her first car. We'll see how far we get on it, no engine or trans. and smells like mice have been living in it a while. Just joined The Samba, trying to find parts. Looks like parts are much cheaper and more available for them than Land Cruisers.
I've used a Coors box, a PBR box and last year, cut a 'custom' box out of some heavier gage cardboard. Thought I'd get fancy this year with the raft material and bolt it on.
I've used a Coors box, a PBR box and last year, cut a 'custom' box out of some heavier gage cardboard. Thought I'd get fancy this year with the raft material and bolt it on.
Replaced my fuel filter; but sendimeter “filter” light still on. What’s up?
I glued the side windows back to the FRP top today. New runs make the windows slide and close smoothly. 
Part Numbers: 62755-60040 (left), 62756-60040 (right) . I used Sika 221i sealant.
Also completed on conserving the doors from inside, using Owatrol and Fluid Film.
Part Numbers: 62755-60040 (left), 62756-60040 (right) . I used Sika 221i sealant.
Also completed on conserving the doors from inside, using Owatrol and Fluid Film.
Got the BJ73 on the road again. Waterhole at windrock killed my starter plunger. New starter meant for toyota forklift with 3B for $105 (2810056060, 28100-56100) works fine so far.
Fuel starvation issues,, thought it was cutoff solonoid, but it is a combination of clogged fuel tank vent and my add on electric fuel pump being dead so the IP can't suck through the filter/through the dead pump/to the tank with a vacuum. New fuel pump and it runs fine.
Rinsed the mud from inside my taillights and got the bulbs working again. Cleaned and repaired 24V+ battery terminal connections after my headlights quit last night. Lucked out and ran into neighbors at the football game they did me a favor letting me tailgate them home with just parking lights back to my house and then they went to theirs.
Tearing into the Tcase will come before Christmas. I have significant gear/bearing whine. I"m guessing I need new output bearings and seals. I may add a sumo gears 3.3:1 or 4:1 low while I'm in there. Need a new rubber mount for the crossmember as well as mine ripped free on a hard bottoming in Uwharrie. That is what was allowing my driveline to twist out of Position a bit and make the fan contact the shroud when flexing alot offroad....................................I am thinking I can unbolt the rear half of the Tcase and do what I need to do without having to remove the whole thing from the tranny. Probably weld a plate of steel to my floor jack and use some straps to help with this. Need to find a good thread on crawler gear swap/Tcase service. Not sure I can get LC under the house(elevated home) so I can do this on the concrete and be able to roll the floor jack around with the Tcase on it......................Whine from the Tcase is very annoying. It's higher pitch than the tires and louder. It completely goes away when you push in the clutch............It's so loud that at my age I think about selling the 73 and looking for a 80 series that is more comfortable on the road. I just like the simplicity of the 70. If I can get rid of the gear noise and some of the vibes with some new rubber. We'll see.
Some rust is starting to bubble out next to the spots I repaired recently before my DIY paint job. I'm going to end up spot repairing with grinder, converter, filler, and spot painting with detail gun/blending with sand and buff. Perhaps as a yearly thing as long as I have this vehicle.
Fuel starvation issues,, thought it was cutoff solonoid, but it is a combination of clogged fuel tank vent and my add on electric fuel pump being dead so the IP can't suck through the filter/through the dead pump/to the tank with a vacuum. New fuel pump and it runs fine.
Rinsed the mud from inside my taillights and got the bulbs working again. Cleaned and repaired 24V+ battery terminal connections after my headlights quit last night. Lucked out and ran into neighbors at the football game they did me a favor letting me tailgate them home with just parking lights back to my house and then they went to theirs.
Tearing into the Tcase will come before Christmas. I have significant gear/bearing whine. I"m guessing I need new output bearings and seals. I may add a sumo gears 3.3:1 or 4:1 low while I'm in there. Need a new rubber mount for the crossmember as well as mine ripped free on a hard bottoming in Uwharrie. That is what was allowing my driveline to twist out of Position a bit and make the fan contact the shroud when flexing alot offroad....................................I am thinking I can unbolt the rear half of the Tcase and do what I need to do without having to remove the whole thing from the tranny. Probably weld a plate of steel to my floor jack and use some straps to help with this. Need to find a good thread on crawler gear swap/Tcase service. Not sure I can get LC under the house(elevated home) so I can do this on the concrete and be able to roll the floor jack around with the Tcase on it......................Whine from the Tcase is very annoying. It's higher pitch than the tires and louder. It completely goes away when you push in the clutch............It's so loud that at my age I think about selling the 73 and looking for a 80 series that is more comfortable on the road. I just like the simplicity of the 70. If I can get rid of the gear noise and some of the vibes with some new rubber. We'll see.
Some rust is starting to bubble out next to the spots I repaired recently before my DIY paint job. I'm going to end up spot repairing with grinder, converter, filler, and spot painting with detail gun/blending with sand and buff. Perhaps as a yearly thing as long as I have this vehicle.
FJBen
SILVER Star
Wheeling and waterholes are hard on rigs. Wheeling in general is just hard on rigs. Water just adds another level of fun to troubleshoot.
I rebuilt the transfercase while it was in the vehicle. It wasn't that bad at all actually. It would have been easier with it all out of the rig, but honestly it wasn't that hard at all. I was able to do it in the garage on concrete floor with basic tools. The only tool you need to have special is a press or take it to a shop to press those bearings off.
New tires over those Recaps will make a HUGE difference. I had older BFG KO2's on mine at first and my Yokohama 255/85r16's are still better, quieter and way more traction over the 21,000 miles I've had them on.
Sunrise drive along the Blue Ridge this morning. Red Troopy, Red Leaves, pretty sweet.
I appreciate your advice on the Tcase, gives me a bit more confidence to tear into it. ...........Water and mud definately shortens the life of things. Some things just tend to go on and on and others you wouldn't expect fail sooner............I'd tear into it myself. I'd take the gears to someone with a press if need be to swap gears and barings. Many years ago there was a bearing house in Charleston that you could bring in whatever bearing you needed and they'd measure it and match it to one they had in stock. Going to research to see if it's still in business. ........................If I do the gear swap with the SUMO gear 3.3 or 4:1 low I'll get a 10% reduction in high range. That would allow me to go to 35's and be almost the same as it is now with 32's. The 32 extra grips have plenty of traction for me. Sometimes I could use some more ground clearance. Guessing a nice set of radial 35's in a modern mud tread would be quieter and have as much traction as the 32" extra grips.
The split case is exactly what the name says , you first need to remove half of it before you can take it off the trans and visa versa to reinstall . No press needed for the gears as these slide on to the main shaft . Split case is very easy to work on and if you can set the cruiser on a few jackstands you can sit under it comfortably while doing the work.
FJBen
SILVER Star
I guess thats true, you don't need a press, just a gear puller to get them off the main shaft, but we definitely didn't have the right or modified gear puller to get that off of the shaft and had to use the fire wrench and the press to get that bearing off.
