I figured it out:
Looks like after a few years my preload backed off on my drivers side spindle. 20min later, back to normal.
What are you working on? (23 Viewers)
- Thread starter crawlin40
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I figured it out:
Looks like after a few years my preload backed off on my drivers side spindle. 20min later, back to normal.
I assume you refer to the front wheel bearing adjustment? If so how did it back off?
Yes.
When I tore down my knuckles a few years back the drivers side spindle showed a little more wear then the passenger side. It’s been fine for years until a few weeks ago. I have a set of new spindles and birfs on the shelf, in case this becomes a chronic issue.
fireball
SILVER Star
Mine ran today, for th first time in almost 2 years. Lots left to do, but it ran.
I’m a little concerned about the bit of metal in the oil, but it was only in the filter (I cut it open with can opener & tin snips), and it was very fine. Hopefully it‘s break in and machining residue From oil passages & stuff. Will run & flush a few more times in the next week and see if it goes away. Say prayers, i’d hate to have to pull & swap a new short block.
I’m a little concerned about the bit of metal in the oil, but it was only in the filter (I cut it open with can opener & tin snips), and it was very fine. Hopefully it‘s break in and machining residue From oil passages & stuff. Will run & flush a few more times in the next week and see if it goes away. Say prayers, i’d hate to have to pull & swap a new short block.
Mine had a surprising amount of metal in the filter through all the break-in oil changes. Last oil change it was much cleaner. Still no sign of smoke or issues so I’m guessing it’s somewhat normal. I’ll let you know in 30,000mi
Did you build yours or did you buy a short/long block?
Mine was a brand new Mexico 350 - cheapest gen1 Chevy performance full engine.
In other news, old chimney cap had rusted out and new one needed to be installed. Yes, I had a safety rope, you have to reach out over the side of the house to get at it and heights are not my favorite thing.
After this winter the top 2’ of the chimney need to be replaced outright, several bricks are degraded and the cap is toast. But that will be for the professionals
After this winter the top 2’ of the chimney need to be replaced outright, several bricks are degraded and the cap is toast. But that will be for the professionals
brian
SILVER Star
from cheap day labor, to mechanical work, to fabrication work..... i ,apparently, truly am a whore.
With the nice weather this weekend I got some more painting in before winter.
Rather you than me!!!!With the nice weather this weekend I got some more painting in before winter.
Need to get on rebuilding (cleaning the mud out) of my lockers, or so says Toyota. I wish I felt better about them in terms of them being truthful or helpful. I'd feel better hearing it from the tech directly.
Also, I'm down a spare now. I had been losing a bolt or two from the LF rock ring, ended up being 7 bolts now. Realized they weren't backing out, but instead they were snapping off. The ring is now bent and deformed and the wheel has 7 snapped off bolts to get out somehow. Best guess is that I hit something hard enough to shear the first bolt head or blew the bead and then the pressure just kept snapping them off over time. As soon as I removed the first ring bolt air came rushing out and the tire fully deflated. Once the ring was off, the tire was off the bead as well.
TLDR: Tire is off the bead and rim needs to be repaired.
Snapped off ring bolts
![20201108_125057[1].jpg](data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg xmlns%3D'http%3A%2F%2Fwww.w3.org%2F2000%2Fsvg' width='1920' height='1080' viewBox%3D'0 0 1920 1080'%2F%3E "20201108_125057[1].jpg")
Tire after the ring was removed
Pretty sure this will need to be replaced unless Brian or Andy think it can be pressed flat again?
Yet another costly lesson being learned.
Also, I'm down a spare now. I had been losing a bolt or two from the LF rock ring, ended up being 7 bolts now. Realized they weren't backing out, but instead they were snapping off. The ring is now bent and deformed and the wheel has 7 snapped off bolts to get out somehow. Best guess is that I hit something hard enough to shear the first bolt head or blew the bead and then the pressure just kept snapping them off over time. As soon as I removed the first ring bolt air came rushing out and the tire fully deflated. Once the ring was off, the tire was off the bead as well.
TLDR: Tire is off the bead and rim needs to be repaired.
Snapped off ring bolts
Tire after the ring was removed
Pretty sure this will need to be replaced unless Brian or Andy think it can be pressed flat again?
Yet another costly lesson being learned.
brian
SILVER Star
ring is steel or alum?
If it were mine I'd bolt it back up. What grade and size of bolt were used before?
Top pic left most bolt hole. Is that a crack?
@brian ... aluminum
@jamarquardt22 ... no crack, I just checked. Hardware is 5/16" x 1.25" - 18 thread. I grabbed up some grade 8 hardware from Ace, but not 100% that was my issue. None of the other wheels are missing any bolt heads, just all in a row on this one wheel.
Trying to decide if removal is something I can try or if I'm better taking it to a machine shop? Some of the bolts were tight coming out. The impact had to work to get them loose.
@jamarquardt22 ... no crack, I just checked. Hardware is 5/16" x 1.25" - 18 thread. I grabbed up some grade 8 hardware from Ace, but not 100% that was my issue. None of the other wheels are missing any bolt heads, just all in a row on this one wheel.
Trying to decide if removal is something I can try or if I'm better taking it to a machine shop? Some of the bolts were tight coming out. The impact had to work to get them loose.
I agree with this as long as the wheel is true and the ring isn’t cracked or creased. That aluminum ring should pull back into place, just tighten the bolts slowly in small increments and go in a cross-pattern around the wheel so you don’t stress one side out.
EZ out the old bolts, then clean and re-tap the threads before you go after it with new hardware. If there’s too much resistance, somethings wrong and don’t just attack with the impact.
A little anti-seize on the threads next time should help with this.
I would not put an EZ out anywhere near those bolts. If some of the bolts where tight coming out, then they are likely corroded into the aluminum.
I would first try drilling with a small left hand drill bit. You might get lucky and then just back out. If you get the drill good and centered, then proceed up the size chain until the remains are removed. If not, then I would weld nuts to the remains of the bolts. This method works, and shouldn't damage the finish of the wheel.
Second @Crusha's suggestion for reassembly. Might want to pull the bolts from the other wheel and coat them too.
I would first try drilling with a small left hand drill bit. You might get lucky and then just back out. If you get the drill good and centered, then proceed up the size chain until the remains are removed. If not, then I would weld nuts to the remains of the bolts. This method works, and shouldn't damage the finish of the wheel.
Second @Crusha's suggestion for reassembly. Might want to pull the bolts from the other wheel and coat them too.
