40000mi for real.
Alternator mounting tab got broken in the wreck I believe, or maybe when pulling it apart after...
That broken tab stopped a lot of folks using this engine before you got your hands on it.
Good work!
Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
40000mi for real.
Really? I could probably buy a oil pump housing. It's nice you still had the piece though. 40k is so cool too!40000mi for real.
Alternator mounting tab got broken in the wreck I believe, or maybe when pulling it apart after...
That broken tab stopped a lot of folks using this engine before you got your hands on it.
Good work!
Damn dude, you get s*** done!I got the rear lift on today, and new rear brakes installed.
Here is the lift completely installed
View media item 83224View media item 83222View media item 83221
Also installed a extended stainless steel brake line and an bracket to relocate the ebrake cable
View media item 83215View media item 83223
During the install of the lift one of the nuts stripped when I was trying to torque it down so I had to cut it off and put another bolt in
View media item 83213
Also had to do an inner axle seal:
View media item 83225
Which is one of the reasons I needed new brakes that and the drivers side was almost down to metal, also installed some newer e-brake brake levers, nice to have an e-brake again.
View media item 83219
So thinking of starting a new trend
The hot rod 4Runner:
View media item 83220
I would have done the front lift but I need to get a different spring compressor and I also need to put in a call to All-pro for some new upper arm bushings and sleeves:
View media item 83218View media item 83217
I hate rust with a passion.
This time around with the install I'm going to drill a hole in the sleeves of the bushing yo hopefully get some grease in there when I grease them. I am also going to drill out tap and install a few grease fittings for the upper arm bolts, I am also going to grind out a shallow relieve in the long bolt that goes through so hopefully they stay nice and lubricated and I dont have this problem for a third time....
Damn dude, you get s*** done!
Is the Camry back together also?
@YotaFun the newer SPC LR UCAs have greasable bushings if you are shopping around.
I got the rear lift on today, and new rear brakes installed.
Here is the lift completely installed
View media item 83224View media item 83222View media item 83221
Also installed a extended stainless steel brake line and an bracket to relocate the ebrake cable
View media item 83215View media item 83223
During the install of the lift one of the nuts stripped when I was trying to torque it down so I had to cut it off and put another bolt in
View media item 83213
Also had to do an inner axle seal:
View media item 83225
Which is one of the reasons I needed new brakes that and the drivers side was almost down to metal, also installed some newer e-brake brake levers, nice to have an e-brake again.
View media item 83219
So thinking of starting a new trend
The hot rod 4Runner:
View media item 83220
I would have done the front lift but I need to get a different spring compressor and I also need to put in a call to All-pro for some new upper arm bushings and sleeves:
View media item 83218View media item 83217
I hate rust with a passion.
This time around with the install I'm going to drill a hole in the sleeves of the bushing yo hopefully get some grease in there when I grease them. I am also going to drill out tap and install a few grease fittings for the upper arm bolts, I am also going to grind out a shallow relieve in the long bolt that goes through so hopefully they stay nice and lubricated and I dont have this problem for a third time....
I know anti seize is pretty nasty
...especially when smeared under the toolbox drawer pulls of someone who annoys you.
This may, or may not, have happened at some dealerships I worked at in my past life as a tech.
My guess. They have done a few in their time.I have no idea how some of the guys in other threads tear things down in a day and reassemble in a day or two.
View attachment 1965629
I like the blue brackets and white valve cover. Are they powdered or painted?It lives !!!
View attachment 1969694
Had a bit of a roller coaster ride yesterday. I got at things early and after a brief struggle with the rear intake nuts and bolt (sighting through the side by the wheel is better than underneath) things went together smoothly since I had done that much of it before. All seems solid until I go to add coolant (distilled H2O in this case) and get a puddle on the floor under the radiator on the drivers side near the stopcock.
I spent time looking for a clipped hose and can't figure out how the radiator would have gotten damaged to crack it and then realize it is leaking thru the drain plug. As best as I can figure out, I had 3 radiators at one point, 1 in use and 2 that were broken and I was keeping to try and modify the mounts to adjust for the body lift. I remember thinking I should save the drain plugs as a "just in case" thinking they were all the same ... they are not. The plug in this radiator is too small and although I know I saved the other plugs, I can't locate them atm which is maddening. Drained it, dried it and slathered some RTV on it and let cure overnight.
Filled it this morning and no leaks, fired it right up and all seems well. Don't see any leaks anywhere at this time, let it idle up to operating temp and it holds at 186*F. Oil pressure is MUCH better and it's super quiet. I will get the hood on later today and test drive ~50 miles to get paperwork from the restaurants.
Downside ... my CDL switch is not operating. Nothing happens when I press the button or put it in Low gear. I may just cave and take it to the dealership to get sorted out rather than mess with it more. Super frustrating, but overall the project was a win and I learned a bunch more about my truck in the process.
I have a 40th Edition 80 that I have fixed up that I purchased from Aaron. I am going to do the front knuckles sometime this year. Hopefully I get to see your rig at one of the events.I just painted them. Powdercoat would hold up much better for sure, but this is the wheeling rig and will never be "pretty". Just wanted to see how the paint holds up over time and I had time to kill while the head was at the machine shop.
I feel like I have now completed the trinity of must-do 80 series repairs ... PHH in truck, front knuckle rebuild and now head gasket. Very much looking forward to putting many miles and wheeling trips on this rig now that I think the baseline issues are sorted out.
feel like I have now completed the trinity of must-do 80 series repairs ...
It lives !!!
View attachment 1969694
Had a bit of a roller coaster ride yesterday. I got at things early and after a brief struggle with the rear intake nuts and bolt (sighting through the side by the wheel is better than underneath) things went together smoothly since I had done that much of it before. All seems solid until I go to add coolant (distilled H2O in this case) and get a puddle on the floor under the radiator on the drivers side near the stopcock.
I spent time looking for a clipped hose and can't figure out how the radiator would have gotten damaged to crack it and then realize it is leaking thru the drain plug. As best as I can figure out, I had 3 radiators at one point, 1 in use and 2 that were broken and I was keeping to try and modify the mounts to adjust for the body lift. I remember thinking I should save the drain plugs as a "just in case" thinking they were all the same ... they are not. The plug in this radiator is too small and although I know I saved the other plugs, I can't locate them atm which is maddening. Drained it, dried it and slathered some RTV on it and let cure overnight.
Filled it this morning and no leaks, fired it right up and all seems well. Don't see any leaks anywhere at this time, let it idle up to operating temp and it holds at 186*F. Oil pressure is MUCH better and it's super quiet. I will get the hood on later today and test drive ~50 miles to get paperwork from the restaurants.
Downside ... my CDL switch is not operating. Nothing happens when I press the button or put it in Low gear. I may just cave and take it to the dealership to get sorted out rather than mess with it more. Super frustrating, but overall the project was a win and I learned a bunch more about my truck in the process.