What are you working on?

YotaFun

 
Joined
Nov 21, 2007
Messages
364
Location
Dover, DE
I got the rear lift on today, and new rear brakes installed.

Here is the lift completely installed
View media item 83224View media item 83222View media item 83221
Also installed a extended stainless steel brake line and an bracket to relocate the ebrake cable
View media item 83215View media item 83223
During the install of the lift one of the nuts stripped when I was trying to torque it down so I had to cut it off and put another bolt in
View media item 83213
Also had to do an inner axle seal:
View media item 83225
Which is one of the reasons I needed new brakes that and the drivers side was almost down to metal, also installed some newer e-brake brake levers, nice to have an e-brake again.
View media item 83219
So thinking of starting a new trend
The hot rod 4Runner:
View media item 83220
I would have done the front lift but I need to get a different spring compressor and I also need to put in a call to All-pro for some new upper arm bushings and sleeves:
View media item 83218View media item 83217
I hate rust with a passion.
This time around with the install I'm going to drill a hole in the sleeves of the bushing yo hopefully get some grease in there when I grease them. I am also going to drill out tap and install a few grease fittings for the upper arm bolts, I am also going to grind out a shallow relieve in the long bolt that goes through so hopefully they stay nice and lubricated and I dont have this problem for a third time....
 
Joined
Feb 26, 2007
Messages
1,427
Location
Lancaster, PA
40000mi for real.
Alternator mounting tab got broken in the wreck I believe, or maybe when pulling it apart after...
That broken tab stopped a lot of folks using this engine before you got your hands on it.
Good work!
Really? I could probably buy a oil pump housing. It's nice you still had the piece though. 40k is so cool too!
 

Pacer

SILVER Star
 
Joined
Feb 17, 2005
Messages
2,712
Location
Phila
I got the rear lift on today, and new rear brakes installed.

Here is the lift completely installed
View media item 83224View media item 83222View media item 83221
Also installed a extended stainless steel brake line and an bracket to relocate the ebrake cable
View media item 83215View media item 83223
During the install of the lift one of the nuts stripped when I was trying to torque it down so I had to cut it off and put another bolt in
View media item 83213
Also had to do an inner axle seal:
View media item 83225
Which is one of the reasons I needed new brakes that and the drivers side was almost down to metal, also installed some newer e-brake brake levers, nice to have an e-brake again.
View media item 83219
So thinking of starting a new trend
The hot rod 4Runner:
View media item 83220
I would have done the front lift but I need to get a different spring compressor and I also need to put in a call to All-pro for some new upper arm bushings and sleeves:
View media item 83218View media item 83217
I hate rust with a passion.
This time around with the install I'm going to drill a hole in the sleeves of the bushing yo hopefully get some grease in there when I grease them. I am also going to drill out tap and install a few grease fittings for the upper arm bolts, I am also going to grind out a shallow relieve in the long bolt that goes through so hopefully they stay nice and lubricated and I dont have this problem for a third time....
Damn dude, you get s*** done!
Is the Camry back together also?
 
Last edited:

YotaFun

 
Joined
Nov 21, 2007
Messages
364
Location
Dover, DE
Damn dude, you get s*** done!
Is the Camry back together also?
I try. When I get my burst of motivation I just keep it going. I usually loose all track of time and surroundings.

The Camry... its semi back together.
We started it up to get it going, sounds great! No smoke! But we noticed some steam coming from somewhere, and as luck would have it on this job, the radiator had finally given up the ghost.
That was Friday, so he ordered one and it came in yesterday.
I was gonna have him help me with the lift this weekend, but hes getting tired of seeing that Camry, so I made him stay home to finish it lol.
On the plus side, it was nice to just spend some quality time alone in the garage.

@YotaFun the newer SPC LR UCAs have greasable bushings if you are shopping around.
Do the collars that the bushings are in get grease too? If so I'll have to consider.

The problem here is, there is a grease fitting but it only get to the poly portion of the bushing, it doesn't go into the collar itself and lube the inner side of the collar where it meets the bolt.

That's why I'd like to drill a hole dead center of the collar and hope grease makes it in.

Another thing I dont get is the frame had 265k on it and that bolt came out like warm butter. Since I installed the arms and put marine grade grease on the bolt before putting it in an torqued it to toyota spec I've put maybe 15k on the truck in 5 years.

The first time I installed the arms I did the German spec and I thought that is what cause it to seize the first time. That was on the first frame about 10-11 years ago, I did the frame swap 6 months before I left Conicelli.

I am hoping with all the grease fitting I put in and the relief I put in the bolt that it will ooze grease everywhere which I'll be fine with as long as it doesn't sieze lol!
 

Rics4rnr

SILVER Star
Joined
Feb 26, 2018
Messages
88
Location
Langhorne, PA
I got the rear lift on today, and new rear brakes installed.

Here is the lift completely installed
View media item 83224View media item 83222View media item 83221
Also installed a extended stainless steel brake line and an bracket to relocate the ebrake cable
View media item 83215View media item 83223
During the install of the lift one of the nuts stripped when I was trying to torque it down so I had to cut it off and put another bolt in
View media item 83213
Also had to do an inner axle seal:
View media item 83225
Which is one of the reasons I needed new brakes that and the drivers side was almost down to metal, also installed some newer e-brake brake levers, nice to have an e-brake again.
View media item 83219
So thinking of starting a new trend
The hot rod 4Runner:
View media item 83220
I would have done the front lift but I need to get a different spring compressor and I also need to put in a call to All-pro for some new upper arm bushings and sleeves:
View media item 83218View media item 83217
I hate rust with a passion.
This time around with the install I'm going to drill a hole in the sleeves of the bushing yo hopefully get some grease in there when I grease them. I am also going to drill out tap and install a few grease fittings for the upper arm bolts, I am also going to grind out a shallow relieve in the long bolt that goes through so hopefully they stay nice and lubricated and I dont have this problem for a third time....
I know the feeling with all the rusted parts on the 3rd Gen. That’s why now when I remove and replace parts I used a little anti seize or marine grease. I know anti seize is pretty nasty but it keeps the rust from seizing parts. Nice truck!
 

YotaFun

 
Joined
Nov 21, 2007
Messages
364
Location
Dover, DE
Started working on the front coilovers a little bit today. What a nightmare -_-

First I had to cut to bolt off the top hat because the nut rust welded itself to the end. No amount of heat or PB Blaster was touching it.
Then I found some spring compressors that would fit the coil themselves soon now I've got a ticking time bomb in my garage while I modify the top hat mount to fit on the new coilover since the newer rod is slightly larger then the older coil over, but hope to have them on by Thursday, alignment Friday.

View media item 83246
Stock arms for the green trail.ride, parts from AllPro will not get here till Saturday...
 
Joined
Nov 1, 2009
Messages
1,124
Location
South Central PA
Cams are in, exhaust side is 90% buttoned up now. Found a broken water temp connector on the harness side and another injector clip that failed, so waiting on parts now ... not sure I will make Saturday, doesn't look probable. Got the injectors, fuel rail and lines hooked up yesterday as well.

I have no idea how some of the guys in other threads tear things down in a day and reassemble in a day or two.
20190429_104313[1].jpg
 

caz

Keystone Cruisers
SILVER Star
 
 
Joined
Jun 9, 2003
Messages
1,898
Location
Lancaster, PA
It's all in the little details... My problem is not having all the parts on hand or the right tool for the job.

My latest - bought a clutch kit, no pilot bearing. All set to put one in and can't find it.

Last week, couldn't get a large snap ring over a shaft - bought a pair of pliers locally and tried one from work before breaking down and ordering one I knew would work from Amazon. Took 30 seconds to install with the right tool!
 
Joined
Nov 1, 2009
Messages
1,124
Location
South Central PA
It lives !!!

20190505_090150[1].jpg


Had a bit of a roller coaster ride yesterday. I got at things early and after a brief struggle with the rear intake nuts and bolt (sighting through the side by the wheel is better than underneath) things went together smoothly since I had done that much of it before. All seems solid until I go to add coolant (distilled H2O in this case) and get a puddle on the floor under the radiator on the drivers side near the stopcock.

I spent time looking for a clipped hose and can't figure out how the radiator would have gotten damaged to crack it and then realize it is leaking thru the drain plug. As best as I can figure out, I had 3 radiators at one point, 1 in use and 2 that were broken and I was keeping to try and modify the mounts to adjust for the body lift. I remember thinking I should save the drain plugs as a "just in case" thinking they were all the same ... they are not. The plug in this radiator is too small and although I know I saved the other plugs, I can't locate them atm which is maddening. Drained it, dried it and slathered some RTV on it and let cure overnight.

Filled it this morning and no leaks, fired it right up and all seems well. Don't see any leaks anywhere at this time, let it idle up to operating temp and it holds at 186*F. Oil pressure is MUCH better and it's super quiet. I will get the hood on later today and test drive ~50 miles to get paperwork from the restaurants.

Downside ... my CDL switch is not operating. Nothing happens when I press the button or put it in Low gear. I may just cave and take it to the dealership to get sorted out rather than mess with it more. Super frustrating, but overall the project was a win and I learned a bunch more about my truck in the process.
 

Rics4rnr

SILVER Star
Joined
Feb 26, 2018
Messages
88
Location
Langhorne, PA
It lives !!!

View attachment 1969694

Had a bit of a roller coaster ride yesterday. I got at things early and after a brief struggle with the rear intake nuts and bolt (sighting through the side by the wheel is better than underneath) things went together smoothly since I had done that much of it before. All seems solid until I go to add coolant (distilled H2O in this case) and get a puddle on the floor under the radiator on the drivers side near the stopcock.

I spent time looking for a clipped hose and can't figure out how the radiator would have gotten damaged to crack it and then realize it is leaking thru the drain plug. As best as I can figure out, I had 3 radiators at one point, 1 in use and 2 that were broken and I was keeping to try and modify the mounts to adjust for the body lift. I remember thinking I should save the drain plugs as a "just in case" thinking they were all the same ... they are not. The plug in this radiator is too small and although I know I saved the other plugs, I can't locate them atm which is maddening. Drained it, dried it and slathered some RTV on it and let cure overnight.

Filled it this morning and no leaks, fired it right up and all seems well. Don't see any leaks anywhere at this time, let it idle up to operating temp and it holds at 186*F. Oil pressure is MUCH better and it's super quiet. I will get the hood on later today and test drive ~50 miles to get paperwork from the restaurants.

Downside ... my CDL switch is not operating. Nothing happens when I press the button or put it in Low gear. I may just cave and take it to the dealership to get sorted out rather than mess with it more. Super frustrating, but overall the project was a win and I learned a bunch more about my truck in the process.
I like the blue brackets and white valve cover. Are they powdered or painted?

Well done!
 
Joined
Nov 1, 2009
Messages
1,124
Location
South Central PA
I just painted them. Powdercoat would hold up much better for sure, but this is the wheeling rig and will never be "pretty". Just wanted to see how the paint holds up over time and I had time to kill while the head was at the machine shop.

I feel like I have now completed the trinity of must-do 80 series repairs ... PHH in truck, front knuckle rebuild and now head gasket. Very much looking forward to putting many miles and wheeling trips on this rig now that I think the baseline issues are sorted out.
 

Rics4rnr

SILVER Star
Joined
Feb 26, 2018
Messages
88
Location
Langhorne, PA
Thanks! I am planning to
I just painted them. Powdercoat would hold up much better for sure, but this is the wheeling rig and will never be "pretty". Just wanted to see how the paint holds up over time and I had time to kill while the head was at the machine shop.

I feel like I have now completed the trinity of must-do 80 series repairs ... PHH in truck, front knuckle rebuild and now head gasket. Very much looking forward to putting many miles and wheeling trips on this rig now that I think the baseline issues are sorted out.
I have a 40th Edition 80 that I have fixed up that I purchased from Aaron. I am going to do the front knuckles sometime this year. Hopefully I get to see your rig at one of the events.
 

BROKEROB1

SILVER Star
 
 
Joined
Jul 19, 2004
Messages
676
Location
York, PA
Wow!!! That’s got to be a great feeling for sure. Awesome work... I was living vicariously through your progress. I’d still replace that radiator drain plug, but I’m for sure OCD like that!


It lives !!!

View attachment 1969694

Had a bit of a roller coaster ride yesterday. I got at things early and after a brief struggle with the rear intake nuts and bolt (sighting through the side by the wheel is better than underneath) things went together smoothly since I had done that much of it before. All seems solid until I go to add coolant (distilled H2O in this case) and get a puddle on the floor under the radiator on the drivers side near the stopcock.

I spent time looking for a clipped hose and can't figure out how the radiator would have gotten damaged to crack it and then realize it is leaking thru the drain plug. As best as I can figure out, I had 3 radiators at one point, 1 in use and 2 that were broken and I was keeping to try and modify the mounts to adjust for the body lift. I remember thinking I should save the drain plugs as a "just in case" thinking they were all the same ... they are not. The plug in this radiator is too small and although I know I saved the other plugs, I can't locate them atm which is maddening. Drained it, dried it and slathered some RTV on it and let cure overnight.

Filled it this morning and no leaks, fired it right up and all seems well. Don't see any leaks anywhere at this time, let it idle up to operating temp and it holds at 186*F. Oil pressure is MUCH better and it's super quiet. I will get the hood on later today and test drive ~50 miles to get paperwork from the restaurants.

Downside ... my CDL switch is not operating. Nothing happens when I press the button or put it in Low gear. I may just cave and take it to the dealership to get sorted out rather than mess with it more. Super frustrating, but overall the project was a win and I learned a bunch more about my truck in the process.
 
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