What are you working on? (16 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Yeap no problem.
It's just a good time to replace oil, but not a deal breaker at all.
If it's at or below the correct level it won't be a problem.
 
Cass007 said:
Can't get the socket (tried 2 different ones) on the bolt head. Looking for any cheats or tricks before trying to Dremmel it open a bit. The angle is crap to see what I'm doing. It's the leading edge towards the front of the truck.

I can ruin the bolt if needed as long as it comes out. New Wit's End pieces waiting to go in.
Click to expand...

Been there!! I cut away at the ring until it fit.

You can also drain the fluid through one of the studs at the bottom holding on the diff, or even out the knuckle once you pull the axle shaft.

You'll get there, don't let this hold you back!

Andy
 
Cass007 said:
So I finally worked up the courage to begin attempting the knuckle rebuild today on the Cruiser. Step 1 ... drain the diff oil. Took heed and made sure to loosen the fill plug first. No problem there. Step 2 drain the fluid ... problem.

View attachment 1731236 View attachment 1731238 View attachment 1731244

Can't get the socket (tried 2 different ones) on the bolt head. Looking for any cheats or tricks before trying to Dremmel it open a bit. The angle is crap to see what I'm doing. It's the leading edge towards the front of the truck.

I can ruin the bolt if needed as long as it comes out. New Wit's End pieces waiting to go in.

Guess this is what happens when you go wheeling in rocks and you are the runt :bang: Truck is keeping true to its rep of fighting me at every turn. Nothing is ever easy it seems.

Can I do the knuckle rebuild w/o draining or is that a FAIL?
Click to expand...
You can suction the oil out with a vac pump.
But my default would be a hammer and chisel to just get the nut moving, then turn it the rest of the way out, could also chisel at the ring...
Not a fail, keep after it.
 
I use a cheap HF socket and pound it on the nut. Mine looked worse than yours. But If(correction) when I had to be it again I wil suction the oil out. So there is less of a chance for the rocks to back it out for me and loose it and the oil on the trail.
 
20180626_153117[2].jpg


Got it with the Dremmel and a 15/16 socket.

Next problem is that I can't get the cone washers to let go. Have hit each stud fairly hard multiple times with brass drift and 2lb sledge hammer and no movement at all. It's possible the PO used RTV to assemble this cap. Any ideas on how to get this off now?

20180626_153105[2].jpg


Snap ring came off. No eyelets on it? It just flew off and bounced around the wheel well. Not sure how that is going back on.
 
Cass007 said:
View attachment 1731294

Got it with the Dremmel and a 15/16 socket.

Next problem is that I can't get the cone washers to let go. Have hit each stud fairly hard multiple times with brass drift and 2lb sledge hammer and no movement at all. It's possible the PO used RTV to assemble this cap. Any ideas on how to get this off now?

Snap ring came off. No eyelets on it? It just flew off and bounced around the wheel well. Not sure how that is going back on.
Click to expand...

Don't whack on the stud, whack on the hub just above the cone washer. Leave the nut on a little so you don't hit the threads. Works every time.

The snap ring does not have eyelets. A pair of duck billed snap ring pliers works best. You can put in back on pretty easily without. Just remember to pull out the axle shaft when trying to seat it. A big socket over the shaft works.
 
Thank Caz ... just ordered the duck billed pliers from Amazon. Will go back to garage and try hitting the above the hub. This is why I hate doing things I've never seen someone do hands on in front of me. Takes forever to do simple things the first time.
 
Cass007 said:
Thank Caz ... just ordered the duck billed pliers from Amazon. Will go back to garage and try hitting the above the hub. This is why I hate doing things I've never seen someone do hands on in front of me. Takes forever to do simple things the first time.
Click to expand...
You can also tap the cone washers with a flat head screwdriver and a hammer on their exposed Edge perpendicular to the stud.

Now that you have hit the studs you may also want to chase them with a die so as to not strip the nuts going back together.
 
caz said:
Don't whack on the stud, whack on the hub just above the cone washer. Leave the nut on a little so you don't hit the threads. Works every time.
Click to expand...

don't get carried away. you can flat spot the hole in the flange.
the rear axles in my 60 were a train wreck.
 
The brass drift and hammer hitting the studs has always worked for me. They can loosen and it can be hard to see. A tiny flat head screwdriver to put in the cone washer slot and turn will tell the story. It may take 10 hits each to loosen keep working your way around the drive flange.
 
jamarquardt22 said:
The brass drift and hammer hitting the studs has always worked for me. They can loosen and it can be hard to see. A tiny flat head screwdriver to put in the cone washer slot and turn will tell the story. It may take 10 hits each to loosen keep working your way around the drive flange.
Click to expand...

2X works almost every time as long as they were installed without a chemical like RTV or red locktight.

I use a thread file on mine to clean the threads.
 
Finally got them off. Ended up having to smack the side of the hub with the hammer. Didn't see any damage, but finally got them to pop out far enough to stick a flathead in the groove and pull them out.

Is this grove on the inside of the hub cover normal?
20180626_174404.jpg


The outer 55mm nut was finger tight. Probably not good there. Washer was bent correctly. Cleaned stuff up a bit (I know now to really pressure wash the crap out of this area before ever doing this again) and got the backing plate, dust cover, ABS, steering arms and front knuckle cover off.
20180626_165534.jpg

20180626_172828.jpg


I expected mush more grease. Does this seem normal or way too dry? This is the side that wasn't leaking.
20180626_172840.jpg
 
I bought the full kit from Onur, so decided it was best to baseline everything while I was doing one side. The light is better on this side of the garage and I had more space to work, so I decided to use this as the "learning knuckle". Now I know they will be assembled and greased properly and I can cross this off the baseline list. Also, the rotors up front have been deeply grooved since I bought the truck so I purchased all new rotors, pads and parking brake hardware for all 4 wheels.

What should I use to clean the parts off? I'm picking up a case of brake cleaner tomorrow along with 4 tubes of Valvoline Palladium. Is that enough grease? Is simple green and water a nope for parts clean-up even if I spray things down with brake cleaned afterward?
 
I have heard of peaple using simple green in there parts washer. I can't remember what chemical is in my parts washer. I typically just wipe the old freeze off and re-grease the knuckles.
 
Check spindle for wear.
Is very common for 80s to have loose front wheel bearings. The inner race then spins on the spindle.
For the picture of it, it looks like the outer bearing did so.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Mixelplix
Scranton area - FJ80 guy wants to ride in an FJ40
Replies
1
Views
424
brian
brian

Users who are viewing this thread

Total: 17 (members: 0, guests: 17)

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom