Weld-on axle tie downs for trailering? (1 Viewer)

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woytovich

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Looking for real world experience info on weld-on axle tie down points - specifically on FJ60 axles.
My 60 is full bodied on 38s. It is not overly heavy but it's not a chopped buggy either.
I want to know if anyone have every seen or experienced any problems with using weld-on points (rather than axle wrap straps like I use now). I have heard people worry about the axle tube getting bent or worse, the bracket tearing out of the housing. Of course in a catastrophic accident all bets are off, but what about in "normal" towing, including bumpy roads and the inevitable bouncing in highway driving (whooptie-dos at bridges etc)
Should I worry or am I just being paranoid?
 
I use these and ratcheting load binders. (first image I found, not exactly the ones I have)

OIP.71_z6EVPFg3oyIn9wZU2aAHaE7.jpg
 
No reason it can't work well. A lot of tie down points are welded to the trailer anyway.

I would not personally do it just because it's another thing to hit a rock.
 
Not with stock FJ62 axles anyway. On the front I would hook just behind the knuckle ball. Back should be easy as the brake line will be on the back of the axle where the hook is open.

I'm adding knuckle gussets and armor to the front housing now... will have to set it up / place the hard line to allow the hooks to grab just in from the gusset.
 
No reason it can't work well. A lot of tie down points are welded to the trailer anyway.

I would not personally do it just because it's another thing to hit a rock.

Positioning puts them halfway up the axle tube so they would be pretty unlikely to hit a rock.
 
What's wrong with axle straps if you already have them?

If it's brake lines, move them.
 
I used the soft straps around the axle front and rear, and I still do on the front. I had my friend weld two attachment points on my rear axle to make things simpler. I'll have to take a picture and post up. The tabs on the rear axle makes things simpler etc to attach straps etc. My trailer's pull down points on the the trailer at the rear are a little further away from the rear of the FJ60 than I prefer, given where I like to place the 60 on the trailer for towing, which creates a less than preferred angle on the straps (the slope of the strap from the rear axle down to the trailer pull-down point.

So a partial solution was to get my friend to weld two pull-down tabs to the rear axle (now this does not really change much) but I like it, in that the rear straps are not coming loose and they will not slide or rub. I really need to also get my friend to modify my trailer and add two additional pull down points on the trailer surface that would better suit my needs as to the location of the 60. In general I'm good, I'v e never had the rear of the 60 move around while loaded, and I also run two safety chains in case something breaks on the straps, which I hope will keep the 60 on the trailer until I can get stopped if that were to happen.

Given how I load my 60 with the soft straps on the axle housing on the front and how its easy to get to etc on my trailer I'm good there, but in my view, the pull down hard points on the rear axle are a plus. I generally pull fairly straight in tieing down the front axle and I cross the tie-down straps at the rear axle to control movement at the rear of the 60 and I get the straps as tight as I can...no flex on the strap.

I don't see much if any issues on the rear axle, my pull down points don't hang below the axle and so they clear...yes I guess something could hit them but I don't think thats much of an issue. On the front axle I've not done anything on that as I did not see a need. I would agree where avoidable you dont' want a shovel or rub point beyond what you already have...but its still a bus on tires.
 
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I crawled under the truck and took a few pics, apparently I have a oil leak of some type...likley the rear pinion seal. 1st group of pics

IMG_0267.jpg


IMG_0266.jpg


IMG_0265.jpg
 
2nd group of pics. these show the pull down points on the rear axle that my friend installed for me.

IMG_0264.jpg


IMG_0263.jpg
 

I use something like these to hold the front axle for the tie down ratchet straps to grab, and then the tabs welded to the rear axle as noted above to tie down with ratchet straps.
 
I have been wanting to do something like this. I use macs tie down, in the front I use fixed length strap that they made custom for less then $20 each with closed hooks on both side, this put the reg in the perfect spot every time. then I use there Ratchet strip in the rear. this makes it fast and simple and get the trailer balance perfect. To make it even simpler I wanted to weld some D rings to the axle, same as your fixed points but the D ring would be in line with the strap eliminating the leverage point that the fixed point have when you tie down the Reg. Probably not a issue but over time could fatigue the upper weld. The other thing would have been to weld them on vertical like they do on heavy equipment.
 
I use these and ratcheting load binders. (first image I found, not exactly the ones I have)

View attachment 2615991
The issue I have with chains is that there not rated, the Mac straps I use have a 10k rating and printed right on the straps 🤷‍♂️ ;)
 
The issue I have with chains is that there not rated, the Mac straps I use have a 10k rating and printed right on the straps 🤷‍♂️ ;)
It's good to trust what you run. Sounds like you've got your setup dialed in.

Chains attach nicely to my trailer's side pockets (straps are awkward unless they're running straight across the deck). I used axle straps with chains a few times before I went to these hooks. I found they would abrade, and crawling under a muddy rig to get them in place sucked. The hooks are easy and clean to work with, just reach in around the tire from beside the trailer.

My hooks and binders both display a WLL of 5400lb, 3/8" grade 70 chain has a WLL of 6600lb.

Here's a hook setup with grade 80 chain (7100lb WLL rating tag attached to the chain):

:meh:
 
It's good to trust what you run. Sounds like you've got your setup dialed in.

Chains attach nicely to my trailer's side pockets (straps are awkward unless they're running straight across the deck). I used axle straps with chains a few times before I went to these hooks. I found they would abrade, and crawling under a muddy rig to get them in place sucked. The hooks are easy and clean to work with, just reach in around the tire from beside the trailer.

My hooks and binders both display a WLL of 5400lb, 3/8" grade 70 chain has a WLL of 6600lb.

Here's a hook setup with grade 80 chain (7100lb WLL rating tag attached to the chain):

:meh:
I'm sure you set up works well and most likely well never be a issue. I prefer not to use open ended hooks, I am glad you chains rated. I find that most chains are made in China and I don't trust them. Lastly chains are heavy and make a lot of noise, if I am loading early in the morning I don't want to bother my neighbors.
Ouch $90 each, My hole set up, all fore corners was about $ 120 made in America, Have spring loaded enclosures that are super easy to use.
1616377934281.png

It also appears the these hook are design for recovery not tie down 🤷‍♂️
Not trying to be combative, just want people to be as safe as they can be out on the road ;)
 
I've had zero issues with what I use. Yes ratchet straps will degrade over time and can be damaged by abrasion and sharp points. I too got aggravated with having having to essentially lay on the trailer deck to get my rear straps connected, this was a bigger pain in the @$$ when using axle straps vs. the solution I posted above. Eeven using the hard points I have to get under the rear of the truck to connect. I use mac straps with "safety" clasps on each end. I've never had any issues and I do watch the condition of the straps and I always hang them up to dry if they get wet, when I get home. Yea if muddy...it becomes "more fun". I think its a smart move to evaluate your gear and likley replace tie down straps after so many years of use or if they are damaged. Same for chains or binders.

I personally think the axle straps / ratchet straps are a clean and sufficient approach, using the proper rated straps and in a reasonable manner for tie down. Not dogging chains and wrecker style hooks or other attachment methods. I've never had anything move around and I also use two safety chains to hopefully keep the 60 on the trailer deck should something break (one on teh front and one on the rear), I don't tension these down but run them from recover points on the front and rear bumper down to the d-ring on the trailer, taking out the reasonable slack, as I don't like to compress the shocks/springs on a loaded vehicle unless for some reason I need to.

At one point in life I ran a wrecker and we used "j hooks" all the time on roll-backs and conventional wreckers for recovery and tie down, generally using a winch (this is to say very light tension...not really loading up the cable as this can damage things etc adn is not a good thing to do) to tension the cable which grabbed the j-hook and chain, while using other tie down points that a roll back has and also using tire-based straps on the front of the vehicle while on the roll back and a j-hook or other combination of static line/chain/cable to secure the rear (basically wahtever it took, based on what was being towed/hauled) Another reasonable approach is to use the small "t-style" hooks that go in the frame-hole, but you then tension the suspension (which I will do, but only if needed) I prefer to tie-down to the axle shafts front and rear or if possible and budget allows...good tire based tie-down systems work great.

load binders and chains are on the heavy duty side of things...which is not a bad choice. I just find for what I'm doing....good straps work well for securing a 60 or similar sized vehicle to the deck. One other subjective view is if you consider that a strap might be cut rather easy vs a chain. Playing it safe either way is good. I've seen all kind of logic used with chains and with straps etc, even where a chain is not properly secured (no safety clasps)and the load shifts..the chain gets slack and the hook simply falls loose to the ground or wherever.

I wanted hard points to attach to, was not interested in putting d-rings on the truck (on the axles) due to noise and potential for snagging things (my view)

one example of recovery hooks...etc that some may not be familiar with...always used as designed...etc, be safe

Amazon product ASIN B004QHHNZ8
 
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