Builds Welcome home Matilda - faded like your favorite pair of jeans (3 Viewers)

[CruiserTrash]

On my 2F both. I'm running a stock sending unit off the oil cooler banjo bolt and a aftermarket oil pressure gauge tapped into the oil filter housing.

My donor motor has solid banjo bolts - not threaded hole for a sender. The filter bracket is tapped just below the filter. I wonder if that’s one of those pre- and post-85 changes Toyota made. See the photos above. I have an adapter threaded into the position (same threads as the sender) so I can run stock and an aftermarket gauge, at least for the cam run-in.

 

[CruiserTrash]

Matilda’s face got ripped off tonight

Fluids drained, some onto the floor. Oops. Both batteries and trays are out. I removed all the engine bay AC stuff and it’s not going back in. Carb, air cleaner, and dizzy are out. Karen’s been cleaning stuff up as I pull it off - it’s still got Moab mud from last October. A solid start to tear down.

I hemmed and hawed on the cam run-in lube so I took the side cover off, remover lifters, cleaned. Cleaned the cam lobes from underneath while Karen rotated the motor, and then used this stuff.

A couple people I trust kept saying moly, sticky, and use lots of it. So I stopped by the only hot rod parts shop in town, guys who don’t look at you crosseyed when you mention flat tappet motors. They both said 100% this is the stuff for new cam + lifters. And since it aligned with what a couple trustworthy folks said…

The bottom of the lifters got some of this goop as well. The sides of the lifters got a very thin wipe of 15w40, and the tops got assembly lube. Three different goops per lifter … I’m in overthinker’s territory. But it’s done and sealed up.

I also marked the lifters in case I needed to verify rotation.


As a bonus, my shop mate is hiding something cool back there…

 

[Godwin]

My donor motor has solid banjo bolts - not threaded hole for a sender. The filter bracket is tapped just below the filter. I wonder if that’s one of those pre- and post-85 changes Toyota made. See the photos above. I have an adapter threaded into the position (same threads as the sender) so I can run stock and an aftermarket gauge, at least for the cam run-in.

The threaded banjo bolt I'm using is from an '81. I think the threaded vs. solid banjo bolt is one of those early vs. late variations but with an earlier cut-off than pre- and post-85. I recommend retaining an aftermarket oil gauge that will give you an actual reading, or at least run it for a few thousand miles until you're confident of the oil pressure in the new motor.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Matilda’s face got ripped off tonight
View attachment 3939953
Fluids drained, some onto the floor. Oops. Both batteries and trays are out. I removed all the engine bay AC stuff and it’s not going back in. Carb, air cleaner, and dizzy are out. Karen’s been cleaning stuff up as I pull it off - it’s still got Moab mud from last October. A solid start to tear down.

View attachment 3939954
I hemmed and hawed on the cam run-in lube so I took the side cover off, remover lifters, cleaned. Cleaned the cam lobes from underneath while Karen rotated the motor, and then used this stuff.
View attachment 3939955
A couple people I trust kept saying moly, sticky, and use lots of it. So I stopped by the only hot rod parts shop in town, guys who don’t look at you crosseyed when you mention flat tappet motors. They both said 100% this is the stuff for new cam + lifters. And since it aligned with what a couple trustworthy folks said…
View attachment 3939956

The bottom of the lifters got some of this goop as well. The sides of the lifters got a very thin wipe of 15w40, and the tops got assembly lube. Three different goops per lifter … I’m in overthinker’s territory. But it’s done and sealed up.
View attachment 3939957
I also marked the lifters in case I needed to verify rotation.


As a bonus, my shop mate is hiding something cool back there…
View attachment 3939958

That's not a 3.0 CS hiding is it?

 

[CruiserTrash]

That's not a 3.0 CS hiding is it?

2.5! It’s my shop mates ultimate “one day” project vehicle.

 

[CruiserTrash]

The threaded banjo bolt I'm using is from an '81. I think the threaded vs. solid banjo bolt is one of those early vs. late variations but with an earlier cut-off than pre- and post-85. I recommend retaining an aftermarket oil gauge that will give you an actual reading, or at least run it for a few thousand miles until you're confident of the oil pressure in the new motor.

I’ve thought about. I already have three aftermarket gauges in the cab and the limiting factor has become space, but … oil pressure is important. Especially on a new motor like this.

 

[CruiserTrash]

Found some interesting differences between my existing block (1982) and my new block (1986) last night. Some of the holes on the front are threaded differently!

First, the power steering pump bracket has three bolts on the side and one on the front. On my existing block the front hole is coarse threaded and had a stud with a nut. On the new block it's fine threaded and uses a bolt.

Second, the water pump bolts are threaded differently. Luckily when I was ordering parts I was using a 1986 VIN and I have the correct bolts on hand.

I haven't tested it yet, but I've heard the threading for the two manifold studs is different in later versus earlier heads. I don't have new studs, so I'll cross that bridge later today.

 

[cps432]

It’s looking good man! Good job!

 

[klinetime574]

The later blocks also have threaded plugs for an oil gallery on the left side of the block instead of using Welch plugs. Which is good because they improved the design. I dislike Welch plugs lol. From the rear of the engine it is behind the bell housing. From the front it is right here

Great work so far by the way.

 

[CruiserTrash]

The later blocks also have threaded plugs for an oil gallery on the left side of the block instead of using Welch plugs. Which is good because they improved the design. I dislike Welch plugs lol. From the rear of the engine it is behind the bell housing. From the front it is right here
View attachment 3941614
Great work so far by the way.

Yep my 1982 block has a welch plug where you circled on my photo. Also, see the threaded hole directly above the Allen head plug? That doesn’t exist on my 1982 block. No idea what it’s for. Could be a different bracket for a different belt-driven accessory arrangement on non US trucks perhaps.

 

[CruiserTrash]

Took the oil pan off the old motor last night so it could be swapped to the new motor. Bought brand new from Toyota last summer and installed with a Toyota one piece gasket. I followed the FSM procedure to a tee: FIPG at the corners, dry everywhere else, brand new bolts tightened to the specified torque. And as you can see below the oil was getting past the gasket literally everywhere. Notice the darker areas of the gasket - saturated in oil.

I’ve read lots of Mud threads on installing the oil pan on a 2F. What’s the real solution here?

 

[RevISK]

Took the oil pan off the old motor last night so it could be swapped to the new motor. Bought brand new from Toyota last summer and installed with a Toyota one piece gasket. I followed the FSM procedure to a tee: FIPG at the corners, dry everywhere else, brand new bolts tightened to the specified torque. And as you can see below the oil was getting past the gasket literally everywhere. Notice the darker areas of the gasket - saturated in oil.

View attachment 3942075
View attachment 3942076

I’ve read lots of Mud threads on installing the oil pan on a 2F. What’s the real solution here?

Have you read/seen Georg’s @orangefj45 write up on it?

 

[CruiserTrash]

Have you read/seen Georg’s @orangefj45 write up on it?

Yes

 

[RevISK]

F, 2F, 3F and 3FE rear main seal, oil pan gasket and clutch installation instructions

I’ve been asked countless times how we install these items so I thought it was about time I’d post a thread on here about it. I was taught how to install these parts by a couple of people with VAST experience, one of them being none other than Mudrak. First step is to remove the oil pan...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[RevISK]

seemed to work well for me.
The copper spray stuff layered on mating surfaces is the trick I think?

 

[orangefj45]

seemed to work well for me.
The copper spray stuff layered on mating surfaces is the trick I think?

Yes it is.

Georg @ Valley Hybrids

 

[CruiserTrash]

Karen’s feeling accomplished tonight. Old motor has been liberated. Despite running to some difficulties today, we saw it through and made big progress.

This thing came to us with two quarts of oil and 105psi compression (except for number 1, which had 135 for whatever reason) and still gave us 40,000 miles of service - commuting, hauling stuff, and lots of memories made on trips. We both poured a little 15w40 on her and said a few words.

The transmission gave me a hard time today. @POTATO LAUNCHER and @CenTXFJ60 gave me some advice, but it boiled down to me not getting the transmission & transfer case onto the jack correctly. But there was no going back. Had to floor jack the transfer case up then add more ratchet straps to the front of the transmission to keep it from both tilting backwards and sliding downwards off the front. At one point the input shaft hitting the top of the bell housing was all that was keeping the whole dang thing from rolling backwards off the jack. Lessons were learned.

Karen has been cleaning every part, nut, and bolt as I remove them this whole time, so all the parts are ready to go back in. What a saint she is - I definitely wouldn’t be this far along without her. I’ve been cleaning and chasing threads where needed too so things will move fast during assembly. Tomorrow I’ll drop the new motor in solo, then when she gets off work we’ll both put the hammer down bolting parts up.

 

[DrRock]

Yes it is.

Georg @ Valley Hybrids

I followed Georg’s method and it worked perfectly. It’s almost spooky now how well it sealed. I have zero drips in the garage floor after 5k miles. Feels weird . On the plus side, my old engine was so leaky none of the bolts I’ve encountered were frozen!

@CruiserTrash Engine looks great! Congratulations. Nice to have help too, two sets of hands can make things so much more efficient.

 

[CruiserTrash]

Motor is in! No drama, went very smooth. Karen is a whiz with the hoist maneuvering, and my friend Josie came by to assist as well. We should just let the girls do this stuff, they seem way better at it.

Spent some time with JB Weld on the front of the block where the water pump goes and on the thermostat housing - all that stuff was pitted or gouged out. Thanks @ToyotaTechnical for that suggestion. Got it all sanded out to smooth. Cleaned the last few bits and bolts. Hung the bellhousing.

Story of the day was yet again the transmission being a drama queen. Forgot a pilot bearing, luckily Napa had an SKF in stock. Didn’t have a clutch alignment tool so I rigged up a dowel affair and eyeballed it pretty dang close. Got the input shaft into the clutch splines and spent an hour trying to nail the pilot bearing with no luck. 9:30PM, hungry … left for dinner and called it a night.

I think my eyeball alignment isn’t 100% - the center of the clutch is not perfectly aligned with the center of the pilot bearing. The clutch splines are now guiding the input shaft slightly off center from the hole in the pilot bearing. It’s so close to going in but just won’t do it. Tomorrow morning I’m going to loosen the pressure plate so the clutch can float a little bit, then try again. That should give me what I need to get the transmission in. It’s 8mm from being fully seated, the bolts nail the holes in the bellhousing, the dowels are very close … I think I’m missing the pilot by 1-2mm. Should go quick tomorrow.

After that I can dress the motor and reconnect everything in the engine bay. I’ll have some knowledge hands with me and we’ll move fast. First fire and cam run-in might be late tomorrow, but more likely Monday evening.

 

[Godwin]

Do you have a couple of long bolts with heads cut off to serve as guides for aligning the bellhousing, transmission, input shaft, etc. ? Guide bolts fit in the lower bellhousing bolt holes and help greatly with alignment.